Forum Message
| From | Message |
| Mark S Sep 06, 2007 22:10:37 | Nu Lustre 55 Hi, I a have poured my countertop twice and find that there are ridges/lines and or patches where the product has pooled....I am finding it tough to get a completely smooth surface....there are indeed areas that are perfectly smooth but many that are not......squeegee lines ....etc....Any ideas as to how to achieve a consistent finish? Would having a less glossy finish "mask" my poor pouring tecnique? Is there a product that I can put over Nu Lustre 55that would "dull" the finish an still be good for a kitchen countertop? Thanks very much, Mark |
| Mark Aug 29, 2007 07:18:19 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The only reasons why Nu-Lustre might give you ridges or lines are: 1. The product had begun to cure in the mixing containers prior to pouring, or 2. A blower or hair dryer was used to try to eliminate bubbles. As long as you mix up enough Nu-Lustre and pour so that the Nu-Lustre flows over the entire surface, you will never have any ridges or lines. You can re-pour, ensuring the adequate epoxy is mixed and poured. You can sand the finish with sandpaper or steel wool if you want to have a less glossy finish. |
| raj Sep 03, 2007 20:35:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 how do you use Nu Lustre 55 on photos, and i want your phone number so i can contact you. |
| Mark Sep 04, 2007 06:11:40 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Like any other application over paper, the surface should first be sealed to prevent the Nu-Lustre-55 from wetting the paper. A solution of watered down glue works very well. For contact information, click on www.swingpaints.com/a_contact_swing.htm |
| Neil Sep 06, 2007 22:10:38 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can also try laminating. Some varnished photos do not require sealing. |
| Anita Sep 20, 2007 09:16:54 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I've had the same problem with Nu-Lustre-55 with pooling, etc. I'm totally not happy about it. It looks absolutely terrible. I did a table, and the first coat looked uneven, so i put a second coat on and it's even worse. Now what do i do? Totally unhappy with the product! |
| Neil Sep 20, 2007 22:09:18 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Sound like you were not working on a level surface. This product will run to the lowest point. |
| Mark Sep 21, 2007 06:59:45 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Anita, You have sent 2 e-mails describing what you call "high and low spots". If you do not apply an adequate amount of epoxy onto the surface, you will not achieve a uniform surface. Although you never gave any details about the table, did you clean it prior to applying the Nu-Lustre? This finish will not adhere properly to a surface that is waxed or polished. |
| Annie Sep 28, 2007 13:34:52 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I'm thinking about using Nu-Lustre 55 on a kitchen island made out of walnut. Does anyone have anything good to say about this product? I'm afraid of trying it after reading the problems people had with the "pooling". I'd appreciate it if anyone can give me any GOOD feedback on this. Thanks, Annie |
| Mark Sep 28, 2007 13:42:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The key to using this product is to become familiar with it by doing several small sample pieces. Pooling, stickiness, ridges are all avoided by people who read the entire set of instructions and follow them. |
| Annie Sep 28, 2007 13:46:06 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for a quick response. Can you tell me where I can purchase Nu Luster 55 in Ottawa Ontario? I have checked with a few places and have not had any luck (one company gave me a 3 weeks delivery time). Thanks again, Annie |
| Mark Sep 28, 2007 14:07:18 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 In stock at European Paint & Glass on Bank Street. Not sure if Randall's carries the product or not. Home Depot in Nepean carried it in many sizes. |
| Annie Sep 29, 2007 08:32:12 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Mark, thank you for the information. I called a few Home Depot's and the South Keys location has the 4 litre for $110.00. None of the others carry it anymore. European Paint and Glass has it for $85.00. |
| Valerie Frocklage Oct 01, 2007 20:43:57 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have coated a drop leaf table with Nu-lustre 55 and am very pleased with the finish. I taped the leave/table edge and placed wax paper between the leaves and main table to ensure I would not have to much thickness between the leaves and main table. Now I have a ridge along the table seam slightly higher than the rest of the table. can I plane it off? If so how do I get the sheen back? Can I polish it? Should I have coated the entire surface and then sawed it apart? If this is the case I do have enough Nu Lustre 55 to do another coat. Should I plane off the ridge and then pour another coat over the entire table (leaves and all) and then saw through the leaf/table seam? If my idea of planeing is OK how do I finish the planed part? I could not find full detailed info on finishing, polishing etc. can you help? Please reply as soon as possible? thanks |
| Les Oct 05, 2007 07:48:39 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I am about to us this product on a bar I am building in my basement and I don't if I can get it in a big enough size without spending a fortune. My bar countertops are 38 Sq ft in size. I will be covering coasters and beercaps as well as some ceramic tile. Can you give some advice as to using it on coasters , so as not to ruin them as well. Can I also us this product over wood with stain on it. What is the Largest size available and where in the Kitchener , Ontario area can I find it. As well can you give some advice as to how to not run into the same problems as your other customers when applying this product. Is it the same as commercial grade epoxy used in commercial flooring. Thanks Les |
| Mark Oct 05, 2007 08:21:29 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Under no circumstances should you attempt to use this product on a bar without testing it on several different pieces. You want to be very familiar with it before tackling a large project. The best advice is to follow the detailed direction sheet. You can apply Nu-Lustre-55 onto stained wood. The product is avaible in 3.78L kits (about what you will need for your bar) and is available at Rona, Pro Hardware and TruServe Hardware. |
| Mark Oct 05, 2007 08:26:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Valerie, You have posed a very interesting question, and one that I have never attempted. I guess that I might have gone about it by placing the wax paper vertically between the table and the leaves. I would then pour a uniform thickness over the entire table, including the leaves (can do the leaves at a separate time). You can certainly sand or plane off the excess epoxy. In order to obtain a sheen, you will need to polish the surface with successively finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper, and possibly even going as far as using pumice stone to achieve a high gloss. |
| Les Oct 05, 2007 09:17:24 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Will I have any problems with using this over top of beer coasters and caps and how much working time will I have. For the size of my bar , what is the best way to make sure that there are no bubbles and or ridges and if so what would be the best way to get rid of them. |
| Mark Oct 05, 2007 10:11:49 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Working time is over an hour and up to 4 hours, depending on temperature of mixture and temperature of room. Bubbles should be removed with a small butane or propane torch. Ridges form when there is not enough epoxy poured onto the surface. You should not encounter this problem if you pour on enough of the coating. |
| Les Moberg Oct 05, 2007 10:33:42 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Will I have any problem with pouring over coasters or any kind of pictures. I see someone has asked about it before and you said to use a solution of watered down glue. |
| Les Moberg Oct 05, 2007 10:37:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Will I have any problem with pouring over coasters or any kind of pictures. I see someone has asked about it before and you said to use a solution of watered down glue. |
| Les Moberg Oct 05, 2007 10:38:06 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Will I have any problem with pouring over coasters or any kind of pictures. I see someone has asked about it before and you said to use a solution of watered down glue. |
| Mark Oct 05, 2007 10:53:52 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I do not know why you would have any problems pouring over coasters. What are they made of? Any time you want to pour onto uncoated paper you will need to seal the surface of the epoxy will wet the paper and turn it transluscent. One way to seal the paper is with a dilute solution of white glue. |
| Les Oct 05, 2007 11:32:03 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 What would you class as uncoated paper. Would it workover pictures. How would someone apply the solution of white glue if it is needed. What type of white glue is needed as well. |
| Neil Oct 07, 2007 23:10:57 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Any white glue will work. You can also try laminating your pictures. If a picture is varnished you should be able to apply epoxy directly over top. I also put the epoxy over shiney stickers without sealing them first with no problem. Good Luck |
| R. Chaine Oct 13, 2007 17:48:21 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 How can i apply nu-lustre inside a wooden salad bowl and such similar items |
| Neil Oct 14, 2007 19:14:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 A hard film finish is not recommended for wooden salad bowls. Try Terra Nova Naturoil on your unfinished wooden bowl. |
| R. Chaine Oct 14, 2007 20:54:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Many thanks Neil for your quick answer. Actually my question was: How to apply nu-lustre over a round surface such as a concave surface or over a ball. The salad bowl was strictly as an example. I appreciatye your help. Thanks again. |
| Neil Oct 15, 2007 20:43:33 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have seen edges come out very nicely: 3 options: you have several options when it comes to edges. 1. allow the liquid to run over the edges. this will produce round edges. 2. pour on just enough liquid so that the product does not drip over the edge. this is the most difficult method as it requires an exact volume of liquid. 3. build a dam around the edges. coat the dam with a paste wax so that the dam can be easily removed from the cured epoxy. Concave is a little harder. You would have to do fine brush coats with a foam bruch to avoid runs. Swing apparently is comeing out with a brush on version of Nu-Lustre 55 . |
| Les Oct 22, 2007 21:44:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Do I just pour this on or do I roll it or use a brush to even everything out. It is a big surface I am doing and I know I have to mix enough to do the whole surface but I want to make sure I get a nice even look. |
| Mark Oct 23, 2007 06:39:35 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You would use a paint brush to apply a thin coat (warm bottles before mixing). Do some test pieces before attempting to finish the final project. |
| Les Oct 23, 2007 19:23:44 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 It would be up to a 1/4" thick in some spots because it is an uneven surface. |
| Mark Oct 24, 2007 09:40:35 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 That would require several coats. |
| Les Oct 24, 2007 17:01:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 So what you are saying is that I can't do it all in one coat. My understanding is that I could just mix up enough to do it all at once. Just mix and pour and make sure it is even and no bubbles, and if I end up with bubbles , just use a torch to warm them to get rid of them. |
| Mark Oct 25, 2007 06:04:40 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can only achieve 1/4 inch thickness in one pour if you dam the sides of the piece you are trying to coat. |
| Les Nov 05, 2007 17:56:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I did my bar and counter tops last weekend and they turned out utterly fantastic. This Product is amazing. I would use this product any time. Everyone just has to read the instructions and make sure they put the bottle of resin into hot water until it becomes warm and will flow nicely. As well make sure they mix it really good with the hardener and don't worry about bubbles because they come out really easy with a propane torch just over top the mix after pouring, while it is still soft. There is lots of working time so there is no need to rush. I advise everone to do as I did and research and test it out before doing any big projects. Have fun and enjoy your results, I am! Thanks again for all your advice and help. |
| Sherie Feb 04, 2008 21:17:09 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have used this product on counters with great success but when I tried it on a counter with im imbedded pieces of glass I ran into problems. For some reason it wouldn?t set properly. I think I should have poured it in several layers but I poured it in one think layer. The left and right sides hardened faster then the middle, and it almost seems like the surface hardened faster then the under layers. Now the center part of the counter won?t harden at all. What should I do? |
| Neil Feb 04, 2008 22:31:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The sticky spots are areas where the two components did not mix together. The epoxy will remain sticky forever - as it only hardens (cures) when A and B are thoroughly mixed together. You can usually cover sticky spots by applying another coat. The areas that have not cured should also come off with a good epoxy solvent like klenk's epoxy thinner. The klenks will remove the unreacted sticky spots. Follow the mixing instructions. You may have also tried to mix to big a quantity at one time. If you pour in stages degloss in between coats. Make sure not to under pour subsequent coats Good Luck |
| Sherie Feb 04, 2008 23:14:27 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for the fast response. What should I use (tool wise) to remove the unreacted sticky area... there is a fairly large area. Also, when you day degloss between coats what does that mean? |
| Neil Feb 05, 2008 16:11:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Gegloss with 320 sand paper. Try a scraper. What will you then do?? |
| Sherie Feb 05, 2008 17:00:14 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 So if I understand I should use a scraper and remove all the sticky -liquidy stuff. Then I will have a large dent in the center for the counter. Should then use klenk epoxy thinner and clean all the surfaces to remove all sticky parts that are left. Should the surface be solid then? Then I will fill the lowest area with more Nu Lustre 55. Once that is dry I will sand it with 320 sandpaper and pour another coat. Keep repeating this till I have a level surface. Does that sound good? |
| Neil Feb 06, 2008 19:05:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have done similar reapirs on a much smaller basis. You can give it a shot. |
| Steve Feb 10, 2008 16:20:30 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 How would you recommend applying the product to a 19 X 28" puzzle? Would it need to be sealed first? |
| Mark Feb 10, 2008 17:20:52 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Glue the puzzle to a solid background - such as wood. If you DO NOT seal the surface, either with white glue or an acryic sealer, the joints will wet and turn a dark colour. Apply Nu-Lustre-55 as per instructions in the box (measure, mix and pour) |
| Bob Feb 15, 2008 14:21:49 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I've got some Nu Lustre 55 and would like to use it on some older unfinished Terracotta tile I have kicking around. However, I'd just like to glaze the tiles. Can I use rubbing-alcohol, paint thinner, turpentine, or peroxide to reduce the consistency of Nu Lustre 55? |
| Mark Feb 15, 2008 14:28:11 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Do not use any thinner - warm the bottles prior to mixing in order to achieve a thinner application. |
| Mark Cariou Feb 28, 2008 15:02:17 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Is there a shelf life to this product? I have had it for about 4 years and used it two months ago without any problem, but when I used it again this week, it wouldn't dry on the wood, it is still tacky. |
| Mark Feb 28, 2008 16:59:02 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have used product that is over 10 years old with no problems. If the product does not dry, it is likely that a) the mixing ratio was not 1:1 b) the mixing was not done thoroughly and some unmixed liquid remained on the side/bottom of the container. If it does not cure after 48 hours, you will have to re-pour. |
| Mal Mar 08, 2008 18:12:38 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Does anyone know if this product can be applied over rubber mat ? |
| Mark Mar 09, 2008 11:43:58 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 There should be not problem applying Nu-Lustre-55 over a rubber mat. |
| Mal Mar 09, 2008 13:06:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for the reply Mark . Another question though . The frame for my bar is complete (about 10 ft. long)however , it is out of level by approx. 1/8" of an inch .I see a lot of questions regarding pooling of the Nu-Lustre . Is there anything i can do to minimize ? Do you know of a levelling compound i can use on the top of the bar frame before i install the top ? Thanks again for your help . |
| Mark Mar 14, 2008 09:30:57 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 What is the bar material? Can you remove the top from the frame? If you attempt to apply Nu-Lustre-55 onto a surface that is out of level by 1/8", you may notice a difference at either end. |
| Mal Mar 14, 2008 09:58:09 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 the bar top is 1" thk plywood . It''s screwed down and shimmed the best i could . I found a few self levelling concrete pour type compounds that should do the trick . Of course i''ll have to "box" in the top (and apply a release agent on the sides )to hold the compound in place till dry . This should work fine right ? Another question . are there any types of glue that should not be used with your product ? Thanks again |
| Mark Mar 14, 2008 12:57:47 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Use a paste wax as the release agent - this works best. I have not heard of any glues that would interact with Nu-Lustre-55. However, you will want to ensure that the solvent has completely off gased before pouring. |
| Dave Aug 02, 2008 14:39:32 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 well to say the very least here all thesepostings are great anyway my question is this i`ve used a product in the past called nuclear i believe it was and i`m talking about 15/20 years ago i was in a camp in bc and i got into making crafts out of wood and this product i used was almost exact and i`m sure it has changed the name i could be wrong? but i have bought this new one nu-lustre-55 and to me it works amazing and how it brings the wood out is only from god and his wonders but my question is this is there any-way some-body would have any instructions on applying this i lost mine and can not find on the net which stuns me i`ve been reading here but only bits and pieces are said thanks for your time to go over this i can be reached at mdrl44@msn.com thanks once again SINCERELY DAVE IN HALIFAX |
| Mark Aug 04, 2008 10:14:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Dave, You can download the directions directly from the Nu-Lustre-55 web page. www.swingpaints.com/1555.htm |
| DAVE Aug 04, 2008 11:04:03 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 thanks alot mark i did get this and appreciate this i thought i was right but just needed to confirm the way i was doing this but when doing some pieces i`ve noted that it is alot better when both bottles are warmed up seems to go alot further just my thinking and if i was doing a larger project i wouldnt thin so much.. once again all thanks for the response it was great in how you folks here replied so fast.. take-care bless DAVE IN HALIFAX NOVA SCOTIA |
| gary Aug 27, 2008 18:31:46 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 how good will it weather in direct sun light? used on a picnic table and other out door tables. |
| Steve Sep 04, 2008 15:03:24 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 applied Nu Lutsre 55 on my bar top turned out great but had a few uneven spots, so I poured another coat and now I have spots that are still tacky after a week. What when wrong did the same thing as before and is there a way to fix without reapplying or sanding. |
| Mark Sep 04, 2008 19:29:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The sticky spots are the areas where the liquid was not completely mixed (usually from inadequate mixing on the sides and bottom of container). You will have to repour a new coat. |
| Steve Sep 04, 2008 22:41:33 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 This is my only choice nothing else will work? I have a large area will 1 bottle of resin and hardener work. the only reason i ask is that i've already put about 7 packages on the bar like I said it's large. Also can I just do the areas that are tacky or the whole thing. |
| Mark Sep 05, 2008 06:11:26 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 For best results, you should repour over the entire surface. Warming the bottles prior to mixing will give a thinner mixture that will flow out easier and go on thinner. |
| Yvonne Lacoursiere Sep 29, 2008 13:44:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 My husband made a coffee table with carvings in it. When he poured the Nu-Luster-55, some areas turned quite cloudy. Any way to remove that cloudiness and what caused it in the first place? Yvonne |
| Mark Sep 29, 2008 14:02:50 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Assuming there was nothing on the surface of the table prior to pouring the Nu-Lustre-55, is it possible that the cloudiness that you see is the presence of many very small bubbles? |
| Brock Sep 30, 2008 08:37:27 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi,I built a bar outside on my deck.It is mostly under an overhang but will definately get rain,snow and direct sunlight.It is conered with 12" porcelen tile,I have edged the top corners with aluminum angles which are 3/16" thick.Before I read your specs I sealed the grout with sealer that I suspect is silicone based.Can I mitigate the effect of the silicone with anything and will this product endure the outdoors as well as the porcelin tile that I used,Thanks for your help,Brock. |
| Michel Bordeleau Oct 13, 2008 09:47:20 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I've tried Nu-lustre 55 recently and I must say that I'm very satisfied of the product. Tried an other brand before and had much more problems with the bubbles and the smell was stonger. I'v tried to make some coaster with picture on a ceramic tile the finished product is beautiful but the surface not hard enough. If I put a hot coffee mug on it, it will makes some marks that I can't removed without putting an other coat, not very practical. Do you have a solution for that? |
| Mark Oct 14, 2008 06:03:19 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 How long did you allow the finish to cure prior to placing a hot mug onto it? Nu-Lustre-55 should reach its maximum durability after a period of about 30 days. |
| Michel Bordeleau Oct 14, 2008 11:16:01 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for your answer Mark. Effectively I only allowed a few days. So I,ll try after 30 days. |
| Jules Lauzon Oct 18, 2008 11:22:37 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I've used this product on serveral tables, some came out fine others not so much. Just wondering if there's a way to sand and polish the surface smooth? Repouring didn't work, and is getting expensive. I followed the instructions to the "T". Thank you |
| Mark Oct 19, 2008 07:34:51 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can sand and polish any finish. What do you mean repouring didn't work? Did you not apply enough Nu-Lustre-55 to completely recover the surface? |
| Michel Bordeleau Oct 24, 2008 15:47:46 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I've made some photo tiles with Nu lustre. Result is great but some tiles came out with some dust. I know that I can sand the tile and recoat but I would like to know if I can dilute Nu Luste to recoat or otherwise use and other product. What would be that product or how can I dilute Nu lustre? |
| Mark Oct 24, 2008 15:57:15 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 It is best not to dilute the product, although I have had some success using Klenk's Epoxy Thinner and denatured alcohol. In order to apply a thin coat, you can warm the bottles prior to mixing. |
| Derek Jan 15, 2009 10:24:27 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have a Bar top which came out fantastic. I had a friend who dropped a beer mug on top and cracked the surface. How can I repair a dime size crack? Thanks |
| Mark Jan 15, 2009 10:35:18 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can cut or route out the affected area. Remove all dust. Warm the two bottles of Nu-Lustre in a bath of warm water (approx 40C). Mix the two components and immediately pour into the hole so that the section is slightly over-filled. NOTE: warm mixture will set of quicker than room temperature mixture. After approximately 6 hours, use a sharp blade to level the surface. |
| Derek Jan 15, 2009 10:49:09 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks Mark.....will do. |
| Tanya Jan 24, 2009 12:35:18 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Mark, I have a number of mosaic tables that I epoxied with nu-lustre 55. I sealed the grout and let them dry for 72 hours before epoxying to ensure they were dry and cured. Initially the tables looked great but after about 6 weeks they went cloudy and now look terrible. 1. why did this happen? 2. how can I fix it? can I remove the epoxy? This was a large job of 6 tables for a client and they are furious. Please help! Tanya |
| Rob Jan 24, 2009 17:03:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have used Nu Lustre 55 many times to resurface tables and counter tops. The last application of Nu Lustre 55 was over a new counter top of marble tiles. Some dust and hair landed on the surface as it was drying. I've used five one gallon kits for this job. Repouring will be expensive, but necessary. I would like to repour a thin coat over the entire surface to cover the barely noticable debris trapped in the smooth level surface, without having to purchase another 5 kits. I know you recommend not diluting Nu Lustre 55, and that Klenk's Epoxy Thinner may be used to thin this product down. Please tell me the recommended amount of epoxy thinner required to thin out a one gallon kit. Thank you, Rob |
| NEIL Jan 26, 2009 00:14:44 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 TRY thinning the product by heating the bottles in warm water |
| Rob Jan 26, 2009 13:13:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for your reply Neil, however you did not answer my question. I do heat the bottles in hot water for a minimum of ten minutes just prior to mixing, as per the instructions enclosed with the product Nu Lustre 55. I know that Nu Lustre 55 can be thinned out using epoxy thinner. My question is - How much epoxy thinner is required or needed to thin out a one gallon kit while mixing together just prior to pouring? Thank you, Rob |
| Neil Jan 26, 2009 18:55:19 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have never reduced the nu lustre with the epoxy thinner. I do not know if it works. You can fool around with it. |
| Dan Feb 24, 2009 20:58:03 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I am making a bathroom vanity top with a bullnosed edge. How can I get the nice thick edges I see on many resturant tables using Nu- Luster 55? |
| Neil Feb 24, 2009 21:02:39 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I am not sure what bull nose is. can you send a pic? |
| Dan Feb 24, 2009 21:44:03 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 A bull nose is a roundover on both the top and bottom of the countertop. |
| Neil Feb 24, 2009 22:38:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 This requires a little technique. As the epoxy dries you can brush the dripping epoxy upwards over the rounded edges. You keep on doing this? it takes a little work. If it is not thick enough you can brush on a second and third coat on the rounded edge. Apply wax so the epoxy does stick to the underside. Then chip off the beads that form the next day. You may want to practice this on some scrap before going directly to your job. |
| Dan Feb 24, 2009 23:39:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for that quick reply. I have to wait a few weeks till our weather gets warmer. |
| Marc Augier Feb 26, 2009 20:29:50 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi, I used Nu-Lustre on my bar counter and need to put a second coat because it is not thick enough. Do I need to sand it before? I heard it won't stick to it if not? Thanx |
| Mark Feb 27, 2009 08:00:30 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 It all depends on how long ago the first coat was applied. |
| marcaugier Feb 27, 2009 10:15:24 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Last week |
| Mark Feb 27, 2009 10:17:07 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You are probably at 95% hardness. I would give the surface a light sanding to remove the gloss prior to applying a new coat. |
| Jane Mar 12, 2009 09:58:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I use NU LUSTRE 55 to create water in miniature. I poured an ocean 1/8" at a time. It sets and looks wonderful. The solid set part is about 1 1/2" thick so far. The last layer didn't set totally. There are a few very thin sticky spots. I'm think it's as you say, the bottom of the conatiner not mixed properly. I can't really sand, as there are props protruding and the area is partially enclosed. Can I repour right over top with no prep to the sticky spots? The surface does not need to be smooth or even. |
| Mark Mar 12, 2009 10:01:42 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can use Super DeGooper or Klenk's Epoxy Thinner to remove any of the sticky spots. You can then pour over the surface. |
| Jane Mar 12, 2009 10:08:27 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Do you know if those products are available in NS? |
| Mark Mar 12, 2009 10:11:22 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Super DeGooper is available at Home Hardware, Wal-Mart, etc. Klenk's Epoxy Thinner is available at Home Hardware, Kent, etc. |
| Jane Mar 12, 2009 12:24:24 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Found DeGooper. How would you suggest I apply it to prepare the sticky surface for a another coat? |
| Mark Mar 12, 2009 12:28:51 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 As the directions state: Apply Super DeGooper to a cloth, blot, and rub lightly until spot is removed. |
| Jane Mar 13, 2009 08:37:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I've made a mess. The goo goes a little deeper then I though fisrt off. Can I send a couple of pictures somewhere so you can get a better idea what I'm looking at? |
| Mark Mar 13, 2009 08:39:07 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 info@swingpaints.com |
| Jane Mar 13, 2009 09:01:22 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Mark, I had to remove the fishing shack totally to get at the water that was poured under the wharf. The water ( product) underneath is solid, but the top 1/8" - 1/4" (in spots) is as you see, semi set. The smoothness of the finished piece doesn't factor into this at all. In fact, this may have been a mistake, that has allowed me to depict some water movement. The DeGooper process seems like it could take several bottles and never really lift it entirely. What happens to the sticky spots if I just pour another layer on top? You have been extremely helpful. Wonderful representation for your company! With this help, I would not be intimidated or hesitate using any of your products. |
| Mark Mar 13, 2009 11:46:13 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Jane, I have taken the liberty of putting your e-mail online so that everyone can benefit. Firstly, the "sticky" spots are caused by incomplete mixing of the two components. This generally occurs when the mixer does not get the corners of the mixing container. When I mix, I always use containers that are less than half full when measured. I then pour all of component A into container B and mix thoroughly. I then pour the entire mixture back into container A and mix thoroughly. I will do this several times to ensure everything is mixed. A bit more time and effort, but I have never had "sticky" spots. There are a couple options at this point based on the thickness of the "sticky" spots. If you want to remove all the "sticky" spots, you can dig out the majority of the "sticky" spots with a popsicle stick and then use the Super DeGooper to remove any residue. In this manner, the entire finish will be properly cured. Since you are not using this as a table or bartop, and these spots are fairly thick, my suggestion is simply to pour over the "sticky" spots. Warm the individual bottles in hot water in order to lower the viscosity. Mix the components and pour onto the surface. The new mixture will harden and cure over your "sticky" spots. Remember, the warmed mixture will cure FASTER than would a room temperature mixture, so you have a lot less working time. Let me know how things turn out. Mark |
| Stan Mar 16, 2009 01:10:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 our hardwood floor has a number of deep scratches (polyurethane finish),can I use NU LUSTRE over the finish? |
| Mark Mar 16, 2009 08:02:27 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Yes, you can apply Nu-Lustre-55 over a polyurethane finish. You can use it to fill the deep scratches. |
| Stan Mar 16, 2009 15:16:47 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks Mark |
| Audrey Brown Mar 29, 2009 16:11:13 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I am thinking about using Nu Lustre 55 on stones since tumbling takes a long time. What would be the best/easiest way to apply the product and is the product non-yellowing. Thanks so much for your assistance! |
| Mark Mar 30, 2009 06:02:44 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The best product for your application would be Nu-Lustre Brush-On Anti-UV. This product is designed for application to non-horizontal surfaces, and will not turn yellow. |
| Audrey Mar 30, 2009 16:27:03 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks so much, Mark!! |
| Mélanie Apr 05, 2009 19:23:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Bonjour, Lustrage Nu-lustre55: Les pièces moulées en époxy-résine peuvent être lustrées au moyen d'un disque ou d'une roue à lustrer en utilisant des abrasifs pour plastiques pour donner un fini ultra brillant. Est-ce-vrai? Si oui, j'aimerais savoir quels accessoires utiliser pour le lustrage et les techniques pour obtenir un effet miroir. Cela me permettrait de réparer les imperfections obtenu avec l'usure sur le dessus de ma table de cuisine. Sincèrement- Mélanie;) |
| Jay Apr 05, 2009 19:48:32 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I just coated my entire bar this weekend with nu-lustre 55 and I must recommend definetly using a propane torch if you are using this product. I was worried when we spread the product as it was quite cloudy. I thought it was maybe becuase of the thickness but after using the torch it ended up like glass. I am wondering if i should put a cover over the nu-lustre to scratch proof the bar? I see Antiquax has been used but it is not as resistent to water as the nu-lustre. Any opinions using a cover over the nu-lustre to avoid scratches? |
| Mark Apr 06, 2009 09:34:37 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Mélanie, N'import quelle méthode de ponçage peut être employée pour modifier le lustre de Nu-Lustre-55. Vous pouvez acheter le matériel aux magasins qui vendent les produits professionnels de finissage. |
| Mark Apr 06, 2009 09:37:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Jay, Nu-Lustre-55 is definately not scratch proof, but applying a coat of Antiquax Marble Wax will certainly limit most scratches. Wax is very water resistant, and if the wax does fail, it is very easy to apply another coat. What type of cover would you put over the bar? |
| Carmel Apr 11, 2009 17:27:35 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 bonjour j'aimerais savoir ce que vous entendez pas colorant universel merci Carmel |
| Robb Apr 16, 2009 16:21:42 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Mark, I'm getting to the finishing stages of a dining table made from 150yr old salvaged hemlock. The wood was underground for many years and is full of character. A little too much character for my clients though. There is some cracking and a little insect damage. A fellow furniture builder recommended a Circa 1850 pour in/on epoxy to fill these voids. I was told that I could tint the epoxy with 1 or 2 drops of acrylic craft paint to mimic a bark opening or come close to the finished colour. My question is twofold. First, is the product suitable for this application and second, will a sprayed poly like the Bowling Alley finish adhere to the epoxy? Thanks, Robb in Guelph, Ontario |
| Mark Apr 17, 2009 09:07:30 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Using Nu-Lustre-55 to fill gaps and voids is perfectly acceptable. You can add acrylic paint to the epoxy, although this tends to lessen the overall strength and gloss levels. It would be best to use either universal colourants or artist pigments. Only a very small amount of colourant is required and recommended. If you do use acrylic paint, the cure time will dramatically increase. If you are anticipating using the Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane, you should wait a minimum of 1 week if tinting with paint. If you use universal colourants or artist pigments, 48 hours is recommended prior to applying the Bowling Alley finish. |
| Robb Apr 17, 2009 20:49:07 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks Mark. I picked up the nu-lustre today and will be test-driving it tomorrow. Can you tell me where to buy the Bowling Alley finish in my area? I've been able to find other Circa 1850 products at the larger hardware stores in Guelph but not this one. Thanks, Robb |
| Neil Apr 17, 2009 21:32:08 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 ROYAL CITY PAINTS 226 SPEEDVALE OWNER TONY & LYNN COLONARDI. THESE GUYS MAY BE ABLE TO BRING THE BOWLING ALLEY IN FOR YOU RONA 55 DAWSON RD. PAINTS JILL BENALLICK. THEY CAN BRING IT IN SPECIAL ORDER HER ARE THE RONA PART NUMBERS Code RONA CIRCA # Description UPC CODE 0776001 181825 VARNISH POLY.GLOS.250ML 181825 0776002 181801 VARNISH POLY.GLOS.1 LT 181801 0776003 181804 VARNISH POLY.GLOS.4 LT 181804 0776004 181925 VARNISH POLY.SAT. 250ML 181825 0776005 181901 VARNISH POLY.SAT. 1 LT 181901 0776006 181904 VARNISH POLY.SAT. 4 LT 181904 WHERE DID YOU BUY THE NU LUSTRE? |
| Robb Apr 17, 2009 23:00:04 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks Neil, I purchased the Nu-Lustre at the Rona store. I prefer to support the local small business community so I'll check with Royal City about the poly. Robb |
| Neil Apr 18, 2009 14:51:52 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 If the Store owner contacts me I can run some up to him to sell to you. Good Luck |
| Bob FIsher Apr 20, 2009 16:43:07 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Question on finishing surface with Oil based stain before putting playing cards to be covered with Nu-Lustre-55 In order to have the correct colour, want to put an oil based stain on fir wood, then glue playing cards to surface. will use the white glue/water coating as suggested in product handout followed by Nu Lustre 55. Should be no problem? Thanks in advance Bob 780 718 2257 |
| Mark Apr 21, 2009 06:49:33 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Sounds like a great idea. |
| Laurel May 05, 2009 14:22:44 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hello, I used an epoxy product for my countertops and bartop (Glaze Coat by Famowood), and it hasn't turned out well at all. We can't get any help from Famowood customer service, and we're trying to figure out what to do next. It has been almost 3 weeks, and paper products stick to the surface, leaving paper stuck in the epoxy. Anything that weighs more than a few ounces seems to leave indentions. For example, my husband put his elbows on the bar for 5 minutes or so, and when he moved, there was a huge dent in the surface. I'm guessing that the instructions/guidelines for both products are similar. I think our humidity was higher than 50%. Could that have caused the problems we are having? If we get the humidity down for a few days, could it harden, or have we missed our window? Also - the instructions in the Famowood Glaze Coat says that the product is pliable - and if something heavy is left on the surface for an extended period of time, it will leave an indention that will eventally even back out. Is the same true of your product, or does it completely harden? Thank you, Laurel |
| Mark May 05, 2009 14:26:55 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Can't get help from customer service? So what's the point of having a customer service? Epoxy products all work on the same principle. Two component are mixed; they react; they harden. The most common cause of a sticky surface is incomplete mixing. If leaving a something heavy on the surface causes it to dent, this is certainly not a product that I would use for a coutertop or bartop. In general, it takes several weeks for an epoxy to completely cure, but once it has cured it will not dent due to a heavy object. With all that said, the coating that you have applied will never cure. The high humidity would have affected the cure time and possibly the gloss level, but would not lead to a sticky surface - that is from the mixing. At this point you should use a solvent (either epoxy thinner, Super DeGooper, or isopropanol) to remove as much of the sticky areas as possible. Flood the surface with a solvent and use a rag to wipe it up. After everything has dried, you can repour the surface. |
| Laurel May 05, 2009 15:21:26 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thank you Mark. I'll definitely use your product to repour the surface. When you say to flood the surface with a solvent - do I need to let the solvent set for a while before wiping it off? Do I also need to sand the entire surface before repouring, or can I just pour on top of the old stuff? |
| Mark May 05, 2009 15:29:14 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 These solvent evaporate very quickly, so you need to pour on a sufficient amount so that the surface remains saturated for several minutes. This may require multiple applications. Do not worry about removing every sticky spot. The new finish will set regardless. Sanding the surface will certainly increase adhesion between coats. You will not be able to sand the sticky spots, so try to remove as much as possible as per directions above. You should sand with 400 or finer sandpaper so that the gloss is removed. |
| Laurel May 05, 2009 16:00:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it. |
| Roy Smith Jul 26, 2009 20:53:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have poured the product over a table top (195 yr old oak tree). It looks fantastic, with the exception of a few spots where air came through. I used a straw to blow out many air bubbles, but these ones where right as it was almost dry - they are now little "divots". Can I pour over these spots, or do I have to re-pour the whole thing? Do I have to do anything to the surface before re-pouring? Thanks |
| Simon Jul 27, 2009 13:33:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Can I pour Nu Lustre over a table top that is already covered with lacquer? |
| Mark Jul 28, 2009 12:02:32 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Yes, you can pour Nu-Lustre-55 onto a surface that has been finished with a lacquer. |
| Mark Jul 29, 2009 09:47:40 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Roy, The air bubbles that you experienced is a common occurance when dealing with older wood. For those surfaces, it is ALWAYS best to apply a seal coat. However, what's done is done. You cannot just fill the spots, you will have to repour the entire surface. The first thing to do is to ensure the surface is completely clean. Be sure to remove any dirt, wax, grease, etc. Lightly sand the surface with the finest grit sandpaper you have. The finer the grit, the less likely you are to leave any scratches. However, even with 200 grit sandpaper I have never notices any scratches after repouring. Since you are only looking for a thin coat, you should warm the separate bottles of Nu-Lustre-55 in a pot of water. Do a quick test by mixing a very small amount of each compoent together in a separate container. Notice the thin viscosity. Pour only a piece of scrap and observe how long it takes to begin to gel. It is better to make your mistakes on the test piece than to ruin your beautiful table. After testing, mix the components and repour. Ensure you have enough epoxy to entirely cover the surface. Be sure to send up a picture of your project. An online photo gallery is upcoming. |
| Chris Jul 31, 2009 15:32:13 | Nu Lustre 55 I've made a table and want to pour Nu-Lustre-55 over it. I want it to run over the rounded edges and down the side of the table about 1 1/2". The table is almost 4' X 6'. How can I make sure it will run over the edges evenly and what can I put on the bottom of the edge to keep it from all runing off? I'm in Ancaster, where can I buy it locally? I checked HD and they don't have it. Thanks |
| Mark Jul 31, 2009 15:48:50 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 As long as you pour on more liquid than will cover the top, the excess will run over the edges. You will want to wax the underneath to keep it from sticking there. The thickness of Nu-Lustre-55 on the sides will not be as thick as the top. You can achieve an even finish by brushing the edges over a period of an hour or two to prevent uneven drips. Home Depot does not carry that product. You can find it at most Rona stores. |
| mike Aug 14, 2009 13:16:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Is it safe for aquariums want to use it on my cement background. |
| Mark Aug 14, 2009 13:31:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Yes, Nu-Lustre-55 is safe to use in aquariums once it has completely cured. Epoxies will take up to 30 days to completely cure. |
| mike Aug 14, 2009 14:20:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks thats good news |
| billy b Jul 07, 2010 12:57:02 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 hello i been looking for a product to cover some old doors sound like is my stuff iam in baton rouge la where can i find it and does it come in gallon or more got a lot of doors billy |
| Mark Jul 07, 2010 15:42:45 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 No one down there carries this product. You can order online at jamestowndistributors.com |
| caroline Jul 26, 2010 10:41:55 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 is it possible to apply the product on top of an acrylic based paint or oil based paint? |
| Mark Jul 26, 2010 11:31:47 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can apply Nu-Lustre-55 over any cured paint. |
| Alistair Oct 11, 2010 14:21:08 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi , Have been using Nu-Lustre-55 for a few years now . Amazing product - the perfect finishing touch to many projects. Can you advise if there are larger kits available than the 3.78ml and if so where do I find them / or order them from . Live close to Kitchener and London Ontario area . Thanks , Alistair |
| Mark Oct 11, 2010 15:19:29 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The largest size that we package is the 3.78L kit. However, we do sometimes have returns from stores in which the resin and/or hardener has begun to amber. I will have them added to our web site for ordering. |
| joe Nov 14, 2010 16:39:11 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I poured a 39 sq ft bar top over rough cut cedar. I had a few sticky spots, so I tried to repour over them. I ended up with a lumpy mess (and more sticky spots!) So, I sanded the top down with 180 grit, by hand, then mixed with a mixing attachment on my drill AT VERY LOW SPEED, so as not to make air bubbles. I poured it again and it came out awesome. The directions say not to use a power mixer, but if you do it slowly, it will certainly mix the 2 parts well enough to avoid sticky spots. |
| joe Nov 14, 2010 16:43:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Also, I did not remove the sticky spots.. I simply scuffed up the good areas (and sanded down the lumpy areas from the "touch up")I wiped down the the entire top & sticky spots with acetone. The new pour reacted and hardened the sticky areas and covered everything else flawlessly. |
| Mark Nov 15, 2010 12:53:39 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Joe, Thank you for taking the time to post your procedure and comments. I am glad that your project eventually worked out to your satisfaction. As you noted, we do not recommend using a power mixer. The reason is that a power mixer can pose a problem if you run it at high speed. The problem is not bubbles in the mixture(all bubble will disappear by exhaling onto the surface, or by using a torch), but the fact that high speed mixing can lead to a quick increase in temperature. When the temperature increase too quickly it can cause the chemical reaction to proceed at an accelerated rate and lead to a mixture that hardens in the mixing container. |
| Edith Dec 06, 2010 13:03:24 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hello! Is it possible to touch up scratches on the finish by sanding+polishing ? I guess it is but I wonder what polishing ways you would suggest so it becomes super shiny again after sanding the imperfection. Thank you! |
| Mark Dec 06, 2010 13:09:56 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 It is possible. You need to start with the finest sandpaper that will remove the deepest of the scratches - could be as fine as 800 or as coarse as 200. After sanding out the scratches, you will need to progress to finer and finer sandpapers, until you end with super fine wet/dry sandpaper. After the sandpaper, you will need to continue buffing with pumice stone (from coarsest to finest) and finally with rottenstone. |
| Edith Dec 06, 2010 13:26:20 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thank you Mark. One last question: is it possible to buy the required material (sandpapers, pumice and rottenstone) at Swing paint? If so, is there a pre- made sanding/polishing kit we could add to our next Purchase Order? |
| Mark Dec 06, 2010 13:37:37 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Unfortunately, we do not supply these items. |
| Steve Dec 23, 2010 23:02:48 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Does this product self level I have a 4x8 table top with live edge what do I use to level out product as I poor |
| Mark Dec 24, 2010 07:35:02 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Simply spread out the product - allowing enough product to fully cover the surface. It will self level. |
| David Feb 10, 2011 08:09:15 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have been using this product for many years with my art and about to embark on selling my product wholesale. I know how to use-I just don''t the chemical make-up. Clients want to know: 1. any animal by-product involved 2. any hazardous chemicals involved...now I know its toxic in its raw form, but after its cured properly, I''m assuming its safe? If someone could reply with the chemical make-up or any environmental concerns it may have...I say that after its cured--its safe, just want to be informed so I know what I''m talking about when I have customer queries. |
| Mark Feb 10, 2011 09:18:07 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 David, Organic material are mostly derived from plants. Animals eat plants, and in turn fertilize plants. Animals and plants may be converted back into carbon dioxide, or, after eons, into coal, natural gas, petroleum, etc. When these burn or are processed, they may again be taken up by plants, or directly ingested by animals. So in reality, we all just share the near infinite atoms that make up the earth (ignoring meteorites for now). The most common animal derivative in paints is from rendered tallow. The tallow is usually made into a glue-like material that bonds the pigments. Another animal by-product, shellac, comes from the secretion of the lac bug. Ok - enough of the lecture. The answer to 1. is that it would be quite a task to trace the history of each individual component to determine if animal products are used in the process. Most likely, the organic materials are derived from petroleum and vegetable oils. The answer to 2. is quantifiable, but is based on current information. In its raw form, Nu-Lustre is not considered toxic as defined by the Health Canada. If it were, there would be a skull & crossbone symbol and specific warnings on the package. Once cured, Nu-Lustre is not known to be toxic. |
| David Feb 10, 2011 09:51:57 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for the prompt reply! I completely understand the 'lecture', and agree-- the forms I have to fill out that some shops send me are over the top. I really appreciate the information! |
| Sylvia Nov 11, 2011 22:44:34 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I want to do a hardwood floor that has grooves about 1/4" deep between each slat. How would I go about getting a thin coat on the floor but thick enough to level out the grooves?...Thanks. |
| Mark Nov 14, 2011 09:01:50 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Nu-Lustre-55 will self level, so you would simply spread the epoxy onto the floor. Depending on the depth and width of the grooves, you may want to apply the Nu-Lustre-55 in multiple coats. The first coat would fill in most of the grooves, and the second coat would give you a uniform surface. |
| jason Apr 15, 2012 11:19:21 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 hey mark, have had. great success with the nu lustre 55. have poured over a couple of live edge tables that i have made and been very pleased with the results. finding it very difficult to avoid airbourne contamination in my work space. tables have had proper time to cure, but have lint/dust particals across the surface. can you reccomend a suitable rubbing compound that may allow me to buff and polish these things off? |
| Mark Apr 15, 2012 17:27:05 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Glad to hear of your success. Buffing and polishing can be done, as with any other hard finish. Start with the finest frit that will remove the imperfections (200/400/600). Keep sanding with finer and finer grits, eventually ending with ultra fine wet/dry sandpaper. After all the sanding, the surface will be smooth, but not shiny. In order to get back the high gloss, you will have to buff with pumice stone 1F, 2F, etc., followed by rotten stone. As you can see, it is a big job. There are two things that can help to alleviate the problem of dust. The first is to work in as clean an environment as possible. Wet down the walls and floor to remove all the dust. The second is to build a tent that sits a few inches above the table top. The tent can be made of anything (e.g., cardboard, wood, etc.). Since the dust primarily settles down from the air, the tent should keep the dust off the top,of the surface. |
| Nicole May 30, 2012 12:02:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have a bar top that we just finished with nu lustre 55. The surface was completely level when the epoxy was poured (I checked it about a 12 times) but we have very visible wave as well as areas that looks as though they have not been fully covered. It is for a commercial space and the finish needs to be perfect! How do I go about fixing it? If there is a couple dust spots how do I get rid of those as well. Thanks! |
| Mark May 30, 2012 12:22:01 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Nu-Lustre-55 is a self-leveling coating, so it will be completely level when it is poured. However, there are several things that will cause it to become non-uniform. If a propane torch, heat gun, hair dryer or other heat source is used in an attempt to eliminate the air bubbles, and the tool is too close to the surface, it will cause waves. If an insufficient amount of Nu-Lustre is poured onto the surface, the epoxy will eventually pull back leaving areas that are no longer covered. The best way to solve the problems that you described is to sand off the dust spots and repour a new coat. In order to eliminate dust spots, the area must be very clean and free of dust. You can build a cardboard/wood/plastic tent to sit a few inches above the surface during curing so as eliminate dust. |
| Nicole May 30, 2012 12:57:38 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks you for your reply. Just a couple more questions: How far do I sand down? What grade sand paper should I use? If bubbles or waves appear on the top coat, what is that best way to get rid of them? What effects does humidity have? And will I still get clear finnish? Thanks Again! |
| Mark May 30, 2012 13:09:06 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You probably only want to sand off the dust specks, and that can be done with as fine a sandpaper as will do the trick. You do not need to sand to a level surface as the new pour coat will go on level. For a small surface, bubbles can be eliminateed by blowing onto the surface through a straw. For larger surfaces, a butane torch is best. Hold it several inches from the surface and move the torch quickly over the surface. The bubbles should be disappear immediately. You should be getting waves, but if you do, you will have no choice but to hope they disappear by themselves, or repour. Humidity will slow the cure time. If the humidity is really high, it may cause the surface to become cloudy or less glossy. |
| Nicole May 30, 2012 16:33:48 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Sorry just need to know if it will still have a clear finish? Thanks |
| Mark May 30, 2012 16:41:28 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Why not? |
| Garret May 31, 2012 04:06:22 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have been using this product for my burl tables and clocks and have never had a problem. |
| charly Jun 04, 2012 00:21:16 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 i have poured the nu luster on a painted colaged surface,can i now add more collage and apply another layer of nu luster over it. And if so how long should i wait before putting another coat of nu luster on the first one. |
| Mark Jun 04, 2012 06:51:35 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 That shounds like it is going to be a very cool looking piece. You can certainly pour multiple coats of Nu-Lustre. You should wait at least 24 hours between coats - more if you are pouring in temperature below 25C. |
| Nicole Jun 06, 2012 11:49:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Again. So my contractor royally messed up my counter top. He did not mix properly and now there are large sticky spots. He did not use enough epoxy and there are high and low spots. He also came in and sanded other materials in the room afterwards and now there is dust everywhere (including the sticky spots). There are areas where the epoxy has hardened (with dust embedded) but it is gooey underneath. If I understand correctly I should: 1. Scrape out sticky spots 2. Use an epoxy thinner to clean out the spots (I''m worried that it will also take off the paint on the bar underneath) 3. Sand off the dust from the hardened areas 4.Clean the entire room and surface 5. Make a trench 6. Re-pour A couple questions: 1.What I do for the hardened spots with goo underneath? 2. Do I sand the hardened spots first then use the epoxy thinner? 2.How do I build a trench? (The bar is line with Brass) 3.When I re-pour, do I first fill in the holes created by the removal of the sticky spots, sand then re-pour? Or do I just re- pour the entire bar? 4. How much epoxy do I need? The bar roughly 70 square feet. Thanks so much for your help. It looks like a disaster and we were supposed to open our restaurant yesterday! |
| Mark Jun 06, 2012 13:48:55 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 YIKES! Where are you located? Can you send pictures? |
| Nicole Jun 06, 2012 14:42:26 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 We are located in Montreal. I"ll send some pictures through email. Thanks |
| Pasca Jun 20, 2012 22:48:56 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Bonjour, J''ai appliquer mon Nu-Lustre-55 sur mon comptoir de cuisine. Malheur, j''ai plein de micro-bulles qui se sont créee. J''ai essayer de les enlever à la torche, mais ca n''a pas fonctionner. Ce matin, le vernis est sec et plein de petits picos qui donne une texture tres rugueuse.. Comment faire pour m''en débarasser? Comment faire pour que ca ne se reproduise pas sur mon second comptoir? merci |
| Mark Jun 21, 2012 10:39:01 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Avez-vous faites des testes des petits tests avant de l''appliquer à votre compteur? Il est vraiment important de se familiariser avec le produit avant de verser sur une grande surface. Quel type de surface est votre comptoir? Avez-vous utiliser une couche scelleur avant de verser la couche finale? |
| Pascal Jun 21, 2012 15:55:06 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Merci Mark On a sabler un peu ce matin et on a rappliquer une deuxieme couche apres. Tout est ok!! A part quelques poussieres qui tombe sur le comptoir. On a pas fait de tente, on aurait peut etre du!! Le comptoir est en Fibro-ciment, ca va etre super beau!!! |
| Mark Jun 21, 2012 16:02:56 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Je suis très heureux que le Nu-Lustre a bien fonctionné . SVP envoyer quelques photos à moi. J'aimerais le voir. |
| Pascal Jun 21, 2012 17:20:18 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Mark.. On lave le comptoir avec quoi un coup que tout sera sec? |
| Mark Jun 21, 2012 17:32:25 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Attendre au moins 24 heures avant de places des choses sur la surface. Le Nu-Lustre prendra 30 jours d'être complètement dûr. Après 30 jours, vous pouvez employer les nettoyeurs sans abrasifs. |
| Pascal Jun 22, 2012 21:45:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Bonjour Mark Est-ce que je peux rajouter un produit pour prevenir les egratignures (scratches) sur mon comptoir?? |
| Pascal Jun 22, 2012 22:19:21 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Rebonjour J'ai fait des recherches sur votre forum et vous parlez pour prevenir les égratignures du produit antiquax marble wax. Est-ce un produit non-toxique pour les aliments? Car c'est pour un comptoir de cuisine!!! |
| Mark Jun 23, 2012 06:09:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Antiquax Marble Wax prevenir les etratignures, et ce produit est non-toxique en sechant. |
| Laurence Jul 19, 2012 10:13:02 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I want to pour a 16 foot counter top off site. The counter will flex in transportation. Will the finish crack when flexed? |
| Erick Jan 12, 2013 00:26:59 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 My situation is almost identical to Nicole''s a few posts up, what was the end recommendation for her problem? To quote her, "If I understand correctly I should: 1. Scrape out sticky spots 2. Use an epoxy thinner to clean out the spots (I''''m worried that it will also take off the paint on the bar underneath) 3. Sand off the dust from the hardened areas 4.Clean the entire room and surface 5. Make a trench 6. Re-pour" Is that the correct solution or is there another way to handle the problem? Thanks, Erick |
| Mark Jan 14, 2013 08:52:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Nicole's pour was a real mess. She tried to spread the Nu-Lustre too thin and ended up with a surface that was not uniform. As well, some of the mixed batches were not done correctly, so there were also sticky spots. If you can send pictures I can give a better assessment. |
| SM Jul 27, 2013 19:22:36 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I put this on an art piece and it looked great. Then, a lovely sun-shower came through (I have no covered outdoor work space)and now the surface is completely full of bubbles that will not respond to the propane torch. What else can I do? |
| Mark Jul 29, 2013 08:07:19 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can try to sand off as much of the finish as possible and re-pour. |
| Tim Sep 14, 2013 09:42:02 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hello, Woodworker from Columbus, Ohio chiming in. I also had the dreaded sticky spots in a few areas on a table top I am reworking. After much searching and reading, I found this discussion. I followed Joe''s steps from 11/14/2010 and it worked perfectly. My product was Famowood''s Glaze Coat, a similar 2- part epoxy. My steps: 1)Place jugs of epoxy in buckets of warm water 2)Scuff sanded entire surface(including sticky spots) with 320, then wiped down with a lot of acetone. Use a bunch or your rag will get hung up on sticky spots. 3)Measured epoxy as exactingly as I could, poured according to directions. Began mixing with egg beater in cordless drill on super low speed for 3 min. Poured into new bucket, mixed with stir stick for add''l 5min to work out air bubbles. 4)Pour/flood the surface, if you don''t use enough it will pull back from thin areas as it dries. Help areas work together with plastic putty knife, but only make a few quick passes since the warm epoxy sets up much quicker, but flows easier. 5)I had to mix 3 batches to cover my entire surface. I just mixed one at a time and poured in sections. While you only have 2 minutes to spread it with the knife, poured sections will flow into each other flawlessly for about 20-25 min, so don''t rush the mixing and measuring. 6)Blow torch time to remove the bubbles. Light sweeping passes almost parallel to the surface, 5cm above surface, don''t touch flame to epoxy. Remember, it is not the heat popping the bubbles, but the gasses. Depending on the surface being covered, you may have air bubbles for 20-30 minutes so be vigilant. My table top went from unacceptable to near perfect. Sorry if this seems wordy, I just want to get the info out there for anyone else who reads this. And I would like to commend Mark, and Neil, for keeping up with this topic for 6 years. Happy woodworking. |
| Megan Sep 14, 2013 12:20:13 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi there, I''m an artist and have been using the Nu Lustre 55 anti UV resin for a few years now. I use a lot of white in my paintings and I have noticed that it is no longer white. I was told that the Anti UV would stop the yellowing problem but I''m paying twice as much and my paintings are now yellow. I''m not sure what the problem is. Any ideas? Megan |
| Mark Sep 15, 2013 15:50:03 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Megan, It is hard to say without actually being able to inspect the paintings. There are several possibilities: 1. The Nu-Lustre-57 (I assume that is the one you are using) has ambered due to reaction with some chemical, direct sunlight, or excess hardener in the mixture. 2. The white paint has ambered due to reaction with the epoxy, some chemical or direct sunlight. There was an artist several years ago that had the same issue. Once we peeled off the Nu-Lustre-57 we were able to determine that the epoxy was still clear but the paint had ambered. Unfortunately, we were unable to determine the cause. |
| Diane Oct 24, 2013 13:43:47 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have used this product for a few years - and had no troubles - BUT this time the product remained very cloudy when it dried....ruined the effect... What can I do now? I measured carefully.....and mixed well before use.....any suggestions? |
| Mark Oct 24, 2013 13:49:38 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Once the product is hard, there is nothing that can be done. I think the cloudiness are probably small air bubbles. |
| Diane Oct 24, 2013 21:05:07 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 O.K. perhaps I overmixed it.....the 'hardening' liquid seemed less fluid than before...does the product have a best before date??? i.e. only last a few months? I would like to try again with what I have but don't want to ruin another project....shall have to do a small sample! Thanks for your help. |
| Mark Oct 24, 2013 21:23:19 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The unmixed Nu-Lustre will be good for many years as long as it is stored at room temperature. The fluidity of the individual components and the mixture will change with temperature. For a less viscous mixture, you can warm the bottles in a pan of warm water prior to mixing. The warm mixture will flow easier, produce less bubbles, but have a shorter working time. |
| Pamala Nov 13, 2013 08:04:08 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hello We poured a very large counter top we designed out of hardwood flooring it turnedout beautiful but had some low spots where it had sunk between the boards. When we went to lay some more in the cracks to make it even we had to wait till the next day as we ran out and the stores were closed it went high and when we tried to spread it out it made a mess and did not blend together in those areas. Is there anyway to fix it our counter top went from beautiful to brutiful and it was a very large area it took 3 of the very large boxes to complete so sanding it all down is not an option as well it would take the colour off the hardwood flooring...any suggestions? Thanks |
| Mark Nov 13, 2013 08:48:40 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Unfortunately, you cannot fill missing spots once the Nu-Lustre has started to harden. The old and the new will not meld together. You will have to repour the entire surface. I wish there was another solution, but there is not. |
| Pamala Nov 13, 2013 12:29:09 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 is it possible to just sand down till it is all even and then pour a thin top coat or are you saying that I will need to sand right to the flooring Sorry for all the questions but it is a very large area and has taken 4 of the $100 packages so far. Thanks |
| Mark Nov 13, 2013 12:35:04 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The more questions asked and answered, the better. You do not have to sand all the way down to flooring. You can sand down until the surface is even. You can then pour the entire surface. |
| Pamala Nov 13, 2013 12:54:46 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 What would you suggest sanding it with to start to finish it and clean it and prepare it for the final pour? |
| Mark Nov 13, 2013 13:15:46 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You should use a medium or fine sandpaper, probably starting with 180. Thoroughly remove the sanding dust using a vacuum followed by any liquid. Dry thoroughly. |
| petru Nov 14, 2013 09:25:31 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Bonjour. J''ai réalisé quelques ?uvres d''art en colage et j''ai recouvert la surface avec le NU-LUSTRE-55. Tout fonctionne très bien, sauf quelques accidents de parcours et légères imperfections. Il s''agit de petits endroits qui restent non couverts, quelques dégoulinades qui excédents sur la surface, quelques petites bosses qui restent surélévées à la surfaces, et légeres eraflures. Este ce qu''il y a un moyen de corriger ces imperfections: par sablage ou poncage avec papier sablé fin, cire d''auto? Après le poncage est-ce que je peu recouvrir le tout avec nouveau Nu-Lustre-55 pour uniformiser? Merci de me repondre! |
| Mark Nov 14, 2013 09:53:50 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Les endroits non couverts est causé par une versage non complète. Vous devrez toujour verser une qualtité qui couvre la surface uniformément. L?excédent du produit versé sur l?objet va dégouliner sur les côtés. L?excédent du produit versé sur l?objet va dégouliner sur les côtés. Vous pouvez toujours sabler la surface après que la surface est bien sèche, et verser une autre couche. Une cire de pâte telle que la cire d?auto ou la CIRE DE MARBRE ANTIQUAX peut être appliqué sur l''époxy traité pour protéger la finition contre l''éraflure. |
| Pamala Nov 14, 2013 17:23:45 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I am sanding the surface as we discussed however when I wipe it with water it keeps turning back white where we sanded is there something else I should be cleaning it with? |
| Mark Nov 14, 2013 17:35:41 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 The surface should appear clear when wet and have a white haze when dry. |
| Pamala Nov 14, 2013 17:39:02 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 it does so then it is okay to pour over the white haze and it will come out clear? |
| Mark Nov 14, 2013 17:49:52 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Correct |
| Pamala Nov 14, 2013 17:50:53 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 wish me luck! |
| Robert Dec 20, 2013 21:54:50 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I coated a hollowed out cow horn and want to be sure that the product once cured is non toxic and I can drink from it. |
| Leanna Nov 15, 2014 09:38:21 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Mark, This thread has been very helpful - thank you for your dedicated customer service! Here is my question: A contractor recently used Nu Lustre 55 to finish a solid wood counter top. The wood was a rough cut piece of black walnut that had the most beautiful character when finished. The original finish was very dull, so I wanted something a little more shiny. He used the Nu Lustre and it''s now super super glossy! A little too glossy - I know - I asked for it?.. It also made smooth any of the beautiful grooves and imperfections that I loved so much. Further to that, it''s been curing for 6 days and there are still sticky spots. From reading your recommendations to other people, it sounds like these will always remain sticky due to insufficient mixing, which means I have to do fix the finish either way. I have two questions: 1) Is there any way to remove the Nu Lustre 55 completely and start over using something else that''s less of a glass / gloss finish? This would be my preferred option. 2) Is there another product that you would recommend to use on a wooden counter that will not be so glossy and will allow for some of the character to be displayed? Thanks so much in advance! |
| Chris Dec 23, 2014 07:44:00 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I just recently coated a harvest table that we had made out of reclaimed wood using Nu-Lustre 55. Because the wood had some worm holes etc the entire surface is not totally uniform. We sanded a couple of spots that were uneven and created a cloudy spot where we sanded. Will this cloudy spot get covered when we apply another coat? |
| Mark Dec 25, 2014 12:47:23 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 Leanna ~ sorry I missed your earlier post. Repost if you still have questions. Chris ~ you can test whether cloudy spots disappear by wetting the surface with water. If the clouds disappear, another pour of Nu- Lustre will give the same results as the water. |
Jan 24, 2015 19:21:43 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I am just wondering what kind of polish should I use on nu lustre 55? I had 3 void spots and tried to fill them 24 hours later and finish is not blended. I want to sand it smoother, but I want to be sure I can still get a glossy finish. Or do I need to apply another thin coat after sanding? |
| Mark Jan 26, 2015 07:21:10 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 You can sand the surface, but to obtain a glossy finish you will need to sand 200-->400-->600-->800-- >1000-->1200-->pumice stone(four grades)-->rotten stone. I might be easier to repour over the entire surface. |
| Ron Mar 19, 2015 08:51:42 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 I have a rather large bartop(18 sq ft) covered in bottle caps that I will be finishing in Nu Lustre 55. The depth will be one half inch when complete. Being a rookie at this I will have to do the "flooding" in numerous steps(mixings). Should I mix a decent sized batch(1 quart), pour, mix another, pour, and continue until finished? If this is my best course of action, will I have time to deal with bubbles before the first batch starts to harden, or should I deal with bubbles between batches at some point in the process? I am assuming that I can do approx. a quarter inch all the way across on the first series of pourings and then another quarter inch on the second pass. Does this sound like a good plan? Would appreciate any advice/direction you could pass along. Finally, is there anywhere locally that I can purchase Nu Lustre 55 in Windsor Ontario? Would prefer that to ordering through local paint retailer. |
| Mark Mar 22, 2015 13:49:39 | RE: Nu Lustre 55 If this is the first time you are using Nu-Lustre, it is highly recommended that you do several test pours to get a feel for using this epoxy. The first pouring onto a porous surface, especially one with various objects is very important. A thin layer (seal coat) that comes just above the base of the bottle caps will prevent air bubbles from surfaces on subsequent pours. After the seal coat has set up (usually about 4 hours), you can pour additional coats. You can mix and pour small batches, or mix small batches and pour in one step - the choice is yours. In Windsor, the best places to find Nu-Lustre-55 are Canada Salvage and Merlo's. |
| Michael Oct 09, 2015 08:32:22 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I am about to pour a bar top with Nu Lustre 55. After doing test pours on several boards I noticed that around the edge of the surface the epoxy forms a concave ridge. I used a waxed cardboard dam around the perimeter, and had the test piece leveled. After pouring a 1/8 inch pour, removing the dam material the next day left high ridge all around the board, but the center was completely flat. Is there a way to flatten this ridge and keep it as glossy as the rest? |
| Mark Oct 09, 2015 08:41:08 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 That is very interesting. I have not seen that effect before. What type of wax did you use? Can you send some photos to info@swingpaints.com |
| Michael Oct 09, 2015 09:10:10 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The wax is a finishing wax, the only kind I had around. The dam material was removed without a problem, even at a few points where the epoxy leaked. I will send pics soon. Do you know if I can router the hardened epoxy (after several days drying), say with a cove bit, and remove the ridge and some wood? Also, can wax paper be used along with cardboard/wood dam material to seal joints in the dam and corners? |
| Mark Oct 09, 2015 11:07:50 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 If you are using a dam, you will probably have to do something to cut the edge, so I am not sure the concave edge would be that much of an issue. However, I would like to see the photos just to see the height of the ridge. You can router the hardened epoxy, but I am not sure how smooth the resulting edge would be. I believe it should be fine. Wax paper can be used as a gasket between the bar top and the dam. |
| Mark Oct 09, 2015 11:09:14 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 If you are using a dam, you will probably have to do something to cut the edge, so I am not sure the concave edge would be that much of an issue. However, I would like to see the photos just to see the height of the ridge. You can router the hardened epoxy, but I am not sure how smooth the resulting edge would be. I believe it should be fine. Wax paper can be used as a gasket between the bar top and the dam. |
| gg00se Nov 11, 2015 15:06:26 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I am a polymer clay artist. Polymer clay is a low-fire clay - usually around 265-300 degrees F. Can New Lustre-55 withstand the heat? I have several small items that have been resined and I want to include them in a piece that has to be re-fired. Thanks. |
| Mark Nov 12, 2015 09:24:07 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 How long will the items have to be at that elevated temperature? |
| gg00se Nov 12, 2015 15:58:35 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 the longest time needed to fire at 300 would be approximately 1 hour - no longer than that. |
| Janet Apr 09, 2016 23:31:35 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 We have been using a coffee table that I recently finished using Nu Lustre 55. I find that the surface scratches easily. Is there a clear varnish that I can apply over the Nu Lustre 55 finish to improve the durability? |
| Mark Apr 10, 2016 17:12:40 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 A finish that scratches easily is usually an indication of improper measuring or mixing. Nu-Lustre epoxy should cure to a hard, glossy, durable finish. You can apply another finish on top of the Nu-Lustre, such as a polyurethane, or apply an additional coat of epoxy |
| Curt Fischbach Apr 17, 2016 03:18:39 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I covered a door with photograph then did a couple of coats of Nu lustre 55, the last coat i was using a torch , to remove some air bubbles and might of burnt the finish just a bit as it went a little cloudy. Is it possible to sand it down and correct this problem? The first coat looked good so i know there is a clear finish underneath . What should i use for sanding down and is it possible to fix? |
| Mark Apr 17, 2016 17:46:18 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Yes, you should be able to sand and recoat. Sand with any grit you like to start. Best to finish with a fine grit to end (such as 180 or 200). |
| Dwayne Apr 23, 2016 17:23:48 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I have costed s table top but it some ripples and waves in it. It also has a couple of spots where it leaked through and they are lower. Should I recoat it and if so do I need to sand it first? |
| Mark Apr 25, 2016 09:09:21 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Ripples and waves can be caused by heating the surface after pouring the epoxy. You should never use a heat gun on the surface, or apply too much heat when using a torch to eliminate bubbles. You can also get ripples if there is not adequate epoxy on the surface and you attempt to spread it too thinly. Leaking through or into crevices can be avoided by applying a thin seal coat to the surface prior to pouring your flood coat. You can recoat the entire surface. There is no need to sand the surface as long as the first coat is only a few days old. |
| Dwayne Apr 27, 2016 12:58:31 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 So if I want to recoat after 10 days should I sand? And can I recoat with lustre 66? |
| Mark Apr 27, 2016 13:35:08 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Sanding would be prudent after 10 days. You can recoat the Nu-Lustre-55 using Nu-Lustre-66 if you like. |
| eldon Aug 26, 2016 16:13:28 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 We are turning an antique door into a desk. We have filled in the large panels to level. Now we want to coat the entire top. How thick should that coat be and what is the best way to stop it from flowing over the edge, that can be removed without leaving residue behind? |
| Mark Aug 26, 2016 17:03:02 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The thickness of the coating will depend on the temperature of the mixture and the environment. The warmer the mixture, the thinner the coat. You must ensure the entire surface is covered, so there is a limit to how thin you apply. You can get a thicker coat by walling off the sides. There are two methods to stop Nu-Lustre from flowing over the sides: building a dam, and waxing the edges. If you wax the edges, you will still have to be extremely careful to just have enough product to cover the entire surface without going over the edge. As with any large project, you should test your technique on scrap wood to get a feel for how this product applies. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. |
| Elsie Nov 03, 2016 14:31:18 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi, I am busy finishing up on my kitchen island top. I am using Nu Lustre 55 but when I mixed the resine and hardner,it became white... why did this happen and will it dry clear..? |
| Mark Nov 03, 2016 14:45:16 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 As long as the resin and hardener were clear to start, the white is due to entrained bubbles from mixing. Most of the bubbles will disappear after pouring. The rest of the bubbles will need to be popped by either blowing through a straw onto the finish, or by gently passing a flame within a few inches of the surface. Remember, it is not the heat (don't use a heat gun or blow dryer), but the carbon dioxide that causes the bubbles to pop. If the resin or hardener were white or contained white flecks, you need to warm the bottles in a hot water bath until the liquids are completely clear. |
| Elsie Nov 03, 2016 14:54:42 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks Mark. The resin was a bit "flakey" when I poured it into the cup. Will warm it up before measuring and pouring again. Another question, after I pour both the resin and Gardner into a mixing cup, how long do I mix it for... I get different mixing times and do I need to pour it into another mixing cup and stir e then pour? I'm a bit confused...! |
| Mark Nov 03, 2016 15:13:45 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The mixing time is not as important as the thoroughness of mixing. I prefer the two mixing cup method as this virtually eliminates unmixed liquid. Using two mixing cups that will filled to less than 50% of volume, pour part A in one cup and part B into a second cup so that the volumes are equal (easy to see when using clear cups). Pour part A into the part B cup. Use a flat paddle to remove all part A from the bottom and corners. Mix the mixture well (one minute, two minutes, longer if you like). Pour the entire mixture back into the part A cup. Use a flat paddle to remove all the mixture from the bottom and corners. Mix the mixture well as above. Pour the entire mixture back into the part B cup and repeat. You can pour and mix many times, as you should have 30-60 minutes of working time. The working time decreases with the temperature of the mixture (temperature of individual bottles if you warmed them prior to mixing), the volume of the mixture (larger volumes will generate more heat thereby decreasing working time), and the speed of mixing (automatic drill mixers will quickly heat up the mixture and decrease working time). Hope that helps |
| curtis Nov 30, 2016 21:09:56 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I started a small table with a thin seal coat of nu luster 55 and had some bubbles and a fly land in it overnight. How do I proceed with my finish coat? |
| Mark Dec 01, 2016 08:20:56 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I would suggest sanding or scraping off the seal coat and starting from scratch. |
| Evan Peters Apr 09, 2017 15:30:51 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi, I did my first ever pour with this product and the edges went clear but the bottom turned milky white ? Thoughts as to what this could be? Thanks. |
| Mark Apr 10, 2017 08:40:14 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The milky white that you are seeing is probably tiny air bubbles. If you look through a magnifying glass, you can confirm. |
| Evan Apr 11, 2017 10:31:36 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi mark. So if it's air bubbles how do I stop it from happening again. |
| Mark Apr 11, 2017 11:06:07 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Air bubbles originate from two places. Porous surfaces should be sealed with a thin seal coat of Nu-Lustre prior to the pour coat. Air bubbles that form as part of the mixing need to be eliminated by either blowing onto the surface, or passing a flame a few inches from the surface. It is the carbon dioxide that eliminates the bubbles, not the heat. The above instructions are included on the sheet included in each kit. |
| Ivan Apr 17, 2017 21:01:09 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 First time user of nu lustre,. I'm making a solid oak table and after doing a test strip of nu ouster and reading this forum I determined it was Very important to seal the grain as I had non stop repeat air bubbles coming up from the dark open grains of the oak. Even with a not so perfect test strip due to un stoppable bubbles and using a torch to control them. I was very impressed with the finish and hardness. I'm willing to take a chance on this product on a table that I now have over 70 hours into. I sprayed a few coats of lacquer on the top of the tablel to seal the wood grain, but i now have a very hard slippery service. I seen your comment that you can apply over lacquer, but I'm worried about it sticking to the new lacquer finish, do I I have to sand it first? |
| Ivan Apr 17, 2017 21:09:25 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I didn't want to use nu luster for my seal coat because I thought I would just have a thin coat of nu luster with a bunch of air bubbles in it that I would still have to deal with. |
| Mark Apr 18, 2017 07:11:26 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 It is always best to use the Nu-Lustre as the seal coat, since it avoids any adhesion issues. A thin coat of Nu-Lustre will usually only require a single pass to remove any air bubble due to mixing. You should certainly sand the lacquer coat to eliminate any glossy areas. If you are concerned about sticking, it would be a good idea to spray lacquer onto a test strip, and apply the Nu-Lustre onto the lacquer. |
| Eric Apr 18, 2017 10:45:26 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I've prepped my bar top with a 5 mm raised edge around the surfaces. I see in the instructions how to mix for a 2mm thick layer but how do I calculate for this thickness when the volumes listed are in a range? For example it's listed that 946 ml at 2mm thickness will cover .70 - 1.1 m2. That's quite the range. I want to make sure I've got enough mixed to complete in one pour without having much left over |
| Mark Apr 18, 2017 12:22:55 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 You bring up a very important question concerning surface coverage and volume calculations. The reason for the range in surface coverage is that the thickness of the pour coat will vary by temperature of the mixture. At higher temperatures, the mixture will flow more and cover a larger area. Nu-Lustre is 100% solids, with virtually no shrinkage from liquid to solid. Since you are essentially filling a volume with a set area (raised edge will keep the epoxy from overflowing), you can use a straight volume calculator. There are many online calculators to use, such as www.firsttankguide.net/calculator.php |
| Eric Apr 18, 2017 12:30:28 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for the response, Mark but I've got the volume I need figured out (0.4 m3). So you're saying that the higher the temp, the more volume I'll obtain but that will also decrease work time? |
| Mark Apr 18, 2017 12:39:31 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Sorry for the confusion. In your case, you are filling a specific volume with 5 sides fixed. You will not achieve any greater or lesser volume at higher temperature. The volume will always be the same. However, at higher temperatures, with open sides, the epoxy will flow more and cover a larger area (with a corresponding small depth). For 0.4m3, you will need 11 @ 3.78L kits |
| Crystal Apr 21, 2017 14:40:43 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I plan on using this product as an art medium. I have seen other artists use acetone as a sort of solvent to thin the resin. Would that be okay with this brand of resin? |
| Mark Apr 23, 2017 17:58:26 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thinning Nu-Lustre (or any 100% solids epoxy) is not a good idea. It will result in a coating that is less resistant to water and other chemicals, substantially less strong, and potentially change its colour. The best way to thin the resin is to place it onto a pot of warm water. |
| ivan Apr 24, 2017 14:54:33 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Mark, do I apply a seal coat with nu luster the same as a flood coat just with less material. I haven't been able to find any info on this |
| Judi Singleton Aug 28, 2017 11:55:19 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 My 4th coat of Nu Lustre 55 (now 5 days old) has given me tacky spots (with embedded dust and finger oils) on my fabulous poker chip bar. My plan is to wipe the tacky spots with acetone, sand the entire surface with 220 grit, clean the entire surface with acetone and then re-pour a 5th coat of epoxy. What do you think my chances are for a beautiful surface? |
| Mark Aug 28, 2017 11:59:47 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Your chances are excellent for a beautiful finish. Any tacky spots are likely a result of incomplete mixing (from the corners of a mixing container). |
| Judi Singleton Aug 28, 2017 12:15:24 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks Mark, feel better now about starting. You are right, I cleaned out the sides and bottom of the container. |
| Judi Singleton Aug 28, 2017 13:40:21 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hey Mark, sorry to be a pain, but is the sanding haze from the 220 grit going to disappear on re-pouring or do I need to switch to finer sandpaper? |
| Melanie Dec 16, 2017 09:46:47 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi! We used this product on a small counter top and were not successful at making it flawless. There are almost like divots in it and a few bumps. I think maybe dust particles !? Anyway, if we were to pour another small layer on top, would it cover the flaws successfully or would they just show trough? Thanks!! |
| Mippy Jan 09, 2018 16:43:58 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hello, I'm making a live edge coffee table out of a piece of Cherry I found that had this beautiful knot that I wanted to fill in so it came out clear. I was recommended Nu Lustre 55 and did a test and such but the person at the store said I could fill in the entire hole at once (it's about 1.5 inches at its deepest) and I've done the pour and it's foggy because of micro bubbles. I used a blow torch and that got what was near the surface but there are still bubbles trapped lower and the surface is firm to the touch (it's been about 2 hours since I poured). Is there anything I can do to save this?! |
| Mark Jan 09, 2018 17:26:56 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks save it, dig out as much epoxy as possible before it cures hard. |
| Terry Campbell Apr 04, 2018 22:38:46 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I love this product, I now use it on all of my projects. I had some issues with one table and used 80 grit to bring back a level and smooth surface then repourd, you would never know. Clear smooth finish. I am on my 10 the table. |
| Mark Apr 12, 2018 06:15:18 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks for sharing. There is certainly a steep learning curve when doing larger projects, but once you get the hang of it, you will produce beautiful pieces. |
| Shannon May 29, 2018 14:06:34 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I'm planning on making a frame, taped off with tuck tape. In the frame I'll put my 1-1.5 inch thick, live edge piece. My question is, can I pour the product to that thickness in one go, or should I do multiple pours? (cure,sand, pour, cure, sand pour) Will it harden at a one inch, one pour, depth? I do also plan on playing with some smaller pieces to get a handle on it, as this is my first time using epoxy. |
| Mark May 29, 2018 17:19:26 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 After applying the seal coat to the live edge piece, you can pour the entire thickness in one pour. Regardless of the depth, the epoxy will harden as long as it is measured and mixed thoroughly. |
| Stephen chabot Jun 26, 2018 18:25:37 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Have old fishing liscences on a coffee table. A few you can feel the names on the cards after I poured 24 hrs ago. If I leave as is will the nu lustre wear off on these spots and if so could do another pour in a few years. |
| Mark Jun 26, 2018 18:30:52 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 It will take a lot to wear off the epoxy. You can repour at any time. |
| Stephen Jun 26, 2018 19:01:36 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 TU for quick response. Second time using and worked great. Purchased nu lustre in 2017 and just used on June 25 2018. Resin was like thick sugared honey so I place container in hot tap water and let sit and then shook it up . Continued warming and shaking and resigncleared up and was able to mix up no problem. Awesome product. |
| Stephen Jun 27, 2018 09:37:16 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 It’s been 48 hours since I applied nu lustre 55 .Do I need to sand to apply second thin coat. |
| Mark Jun 27, 2018 10:14:17 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 You can sand between coats to increase intercoat adhesion, but after 48 hours it is probably not necessary. The thickness of the pour coat is dependent on the temperature of the mixture. If you try to apply too thin, the new coat will pull back and you will end up with areas with no finish. |
| Stephen Jun 27, 2018 11:08:29 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Ok TU Mark. I think I’ll leave as is and just do a bigger pour in a few years |
| santo hervato Jul 08, 2018 13:17:59 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I use Nu lustre 55 and I like to know what type of colorant I can use if I want to add same color ; is any store in Ottawa Ontario Canada I can bye the color ; thank you |
| Mark Jul 09, 2018 09:48:29 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The best type of colourants are powdered one designed specifically for epoxy. If you don't have access to those, you can use universal paint colourant or artist pigments to achieve an opaque colour. Transparent colours can be obtained using alcohol-based dyes. |
| Jocelyn Maltais Aug 04, 2018 14:10:19 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 What will happens if I use Nu lustre 55 at 70% of humidity ? |
| Mark Aug 15, 2018 15:24:31 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 In high humidity, the water vapour can lead to a decrease in the gloss level, and slow down the cure time. |
| Patrick Savoie Aug 19, 2018 21:11:35 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Can My Lustre 55 be thin out with acetone to make it somewhat applicable with a sponge brush or paintbrush? |
| Mark Aug 20, 2018 08:28:55 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Adding thinner to the Nu-Lustre epoxies is probably not a great idea as it will interfere with the curing process and likely lead to a softer finish. If you want to brush a thin coat, you should try the Nu-Lustre 27. |
| Rich Aug 30, 2018 17:12:30 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I used Nu Lustre 55 on a bar counter for a customer. It looked awesome. A few months later the customer tells me that its seems to scratch easy " I wouldn't want to slide a beer can on it, it'll scratch" I was shocked, I was understanding this product was suitable for this kind of application. I would like to make this customer happy with the bar. Is there anything I can do? Does a wax work to protect it from scratches? |
| Mark Aug 30, 2018 17:51:29 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Nu-Lustre 55 is extremely durable, and is installed in many bars and restaurants. If the epoxy scratches easily, it is likely that the mixing ratio was not exactly 1:1 You can apply a high quality paste wax, such as Antiquax Marble Wax, or turtlewax, to protect the epoxy from additional scratches. |
| Rich Sep 04, 2018 18:49:19 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 If I used the paste wax on the epoxy, does that now make it so another coat can't be poured on it. I just weighing things out as to what is the best approach(a new pour would not be very easy now that the bar is installed). |
| Mark Sep 06, 2018 11:08:41 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 You will need to remove any wax prior to pouring another coat. |
| Jordan Sep 27, 2018 00:02:14 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I just bought my luster 55 and went to pour the resin into a container and it's all chunky Any one had this before? |
| Mark Sep 27, 2018 11:00:30 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Can you please supply the batch number from the bottom of the resin bottle? If NU-LUSTRE-55 RESIN is hard or has crystalized, place the bottle into a hot water bath until the liquid is transparent. Cool for 24 hours prior to using. |
| Deryl Nov 03, 2018 21:01:00 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Great forum guys! So many questions answered here! For a river table 2 inches thick, would you advise a single pour, or a couple of pours? You stated in an earlier thread that one inch is ok for a single pour. I'm just curious about a 2 inch pour. Thanks in advance! |
| Mark Nov 05, 2018 07:39:47 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 You can certainly pour thicker than one inch. The main issue with thick pours is the need to eliminated bubbles (if bubbles are not part of the desired effect). For thick pours without bubbles, pour the mixture onto a large flat sheet. Use your breath or a butane torch to eliminate the bubbles. Once eliminated, you can pour the mixture into a thick mould. |
| michele steele Nov 26, 2018 16:22:21 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I am using it on a raw edge table to coat some rocks that I have mortered in. Will this product turn yellow ? How will it react with the thinset? |
| Mark Nov 26, 2018 16:42:07 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Nu-Lustre 55 may amber slightly over time, especially with exposure to direct sunlight. I should not be very noticeable on wood. There should not be any reaction with thinset, but the thinset may darken when wetted. |
| marc leblanc Jan 11, 2019 13:40:40 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi Is it possible to add some sort of stain to nu lustre? if so what kind is compatible?? |
| Mark Jan 11, 2019 14:46:42 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I have used Circa 1850 AQUA Stain and Universal Paint Tints to change the colour of Nu-Lustre. |
| John F Jan 26, 2019 22:58:25 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I need to know how long the set time is. I plan to spin a bowl and have the product go up the sides of the bowl with centripetal force. How long will I need to keep it turning before it won't settle into the bottom of the bowl? |
| Mark Jan 28, 2019 07:53:43 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The set up time is dependent on the temperature of the mixture, and therefore also the temperature of the room. Under normal conditions, it would take about 4 hours for there to be no more settling due to gravity. |
| Joe Jul 22, 2019 12:25:29 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi there, I recently poured a 4x4 laminated top wiith nulustre 55. I used 3 pieces of pine that were all slightly thicker than the next. I was unable to flatten with a planer so I laminated and flattened the best I could by hand and with sander. The finish came out clear and hard as expected but a have a few spots where there are dips from oversanding and spots where there wasnt enough epoxy. What would be my best option to fill in these imperfections? |
| Mark Jul 23, 2019 08:36:35 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 You will have to repour over the entire surface. You cannot fill small voids. |
| Scott Aug 27, 2019 16:10:01 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 First time using the nu lustre 55. Got one coat done. Wants to do a second coat to get all little imperfections and little dips and valleys on my countertop. What grit sandpaper should I use. It says to sand in between coats. Hmm. Do u have to sand. Seeing a lot of diff info online. Thanks cheers |
| Mark Aug 27, 2019 17:29:33 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Sanding is not essential if you are recoating within a day or two. Best to sand with 200 grit or finer sandpaper, unless you are trying to remove large imperfections. |
| Scott Aug 27, 2019 18:03:01 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Yeah finding it hard to get that one consistent finish. Lines and stuff. Have a couple little valleys and on my countertop I thought the live edge was dry but for some reason the epoxy not setting to it. So if I pour a second as is, think the coat will fill the little dips and bearish places. Any thoughts be good. |
| Mark Aug 27, 2019 23:31:52 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 “Lines and stuff” may be indicative of a pour that is short on material. The countertop should be as smooth and shiny as a piece of glass. If it is not, you are likely trying to spread the Nu-Lustre too thin. If is recommended that you do several test pieces prior to tackling a big project such as a countertop. |
| Charly Oct 11, 2019 13:49:32 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 my hardner has turned yellow, is there a reason for this, and is it still okay to use? |
| Mark Oct 11, 2019 14:18:10 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The hardener may turn yellow after a while. It will not be noticeable once you mix and pour a normal coat. |
| Scott M Dec 14, 2019 12:03:03 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I have a 8ft long slab wood bench that will have some flex to it, will this product crack and chip off when flexed? |
| Mark Dec 14, 2019 12:50:41 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The product will not chip or crack, but after a few weeks the flexible slap will definitely warp as the epoxy cures. |
| Philippe Charmet Dec 16, 2019 13:31:46 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I want to use epoxy resin to fill cracks in wood and then sand the assembly to make a chair top. I see that I can use universal paint tints to color the resin - good. I expect that I will use a syringe to deposit the resin in some of the cracks without over spilling. Is this product adequate for this or is it purely designed to be poured on a surface? |
| Mark Dec 16, 2019 14:06:51 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Yes, you can use this product to fill cracks and voids. |
| Trudi Mathieu Dec 31, 2019 02:15:39 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Est-ce que je peux me procurer le Nu-Lustre 55 en boîte de 1 gallon à votre usine à Montréal. J’habite tout près de la rue St-Patrick. J’aurais besoin de 3 boîtes. |
| Mark Dec 31, 2019 06:51:20 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Nu-Lustre 55 est disponible chez Antiquers Supply 2122 St-Patrick Rona Centre de Reno 2400 St-Patrick Rona Quincaillerie 2371 Notre-Dame |
| Deryl Mar 23, 2020 05:00:13 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I have done two projects with this product, and am very satisfied with the results. I use a 3/16 v-notch, or a 1/8 square notch trowel for flood coat. The only issue I had was last night I failed to notice (until too late) a tiny cat hair embedded on my new kitchen island. It likely came from my t-shirt as I was working, but it is barely noticeable. This product cures HARD and CLEAR, it's a beautiful finish. Watch videos, take time ensuring your project is level,do a seal coat,and make sure work area is dust free before applying. |
| James Mac Fadyen Apr 13, 2020 17:34:58 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Can I use Nu-Luster-55 to coat a carved spruce knot that I intend to use as a sink basin? If so can you give me some tips for application? Thank you!! |
| Mark Apr 14, 2020 07:55:06 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 While you can use Nu-Lustre 55 on a curved surface, you will likely end up with a much thicker coating at the bottom of your basin. A better choice would be to use Nu-Lustre 27, which can be applied thinner and will stick better to vertical surfaces. The best solution would be to apply the Nu-Lustre while your basin is slowly turning on a lathe. This technique is used to coat fishing rods. |
| Greg Scharf May 01, 2020 14:45:24 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hello, I have used this product successfully several times before, but have now had two pours, on the same table top that have not completely cured. After the 2nd pour, most of the surface cured hard and smooth, but one corner has become rough or "dappled" looking and remains wet to tacky. I can't keep pouring and hoping as the layer will be too thick and heavy. Is there a way to "force" cure the part that is remaining un-cured. Help! Thanks, Greg |
| Mark May 01, 2020 15:46:27 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The most common reason why some sections of a Nu Lustre pour remain tacky is because of incomplete mixing. There can be a small amount of one component, usually in a corner of the mixing container, that remains unmixed prior to pouring. The only solution is to repour a new coat. Using two mixing containers will usually eliminate any issues associated with improper mixing. |
| Dan MacIsaac May 30, 2020 20:07:02 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Can you tell me what the pot life is for this product Nu-Lustre-55 |
| Mark May 30, 2020 20:59:19 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Depending on the temperature, speed of mixing and quantity being mixed, the pot life is around one hour. |
| STEVEN LEDUC Sep 16, 2020 15:50:19 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hi i'm trying to find why my nu lustre 55 epoxy doesnt dry hard, it's still kinda flexible, definetely not hard. The first test i tried with it was perfect, the bottle were new, then i tried again 2 week later and it just doesnt get hard. I followed the direction in the manual very very carefully and mixed with ma precision weight digital balance, i was using 5.1g of part A and same for part B. I mixed for at least 10 minutes with different plastic cups, exactly like the instructions. I pour this on metal surface and even after 1 week it is not hard. I used a lamap for heat in my last test and i cleaned everything very carefully, i dont think the epoxy was contaminated i just opened the bottles 2-3 times and closed it riht after 20 seconds when i got my desired quantity... |
| Mark Sep 17, 2020 07:42:22 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 I believe the problem you are experiencing, where the poured mixture remains soft, is related to the fact that you are measuring the components by weight as opposed to volume. Since the density of the resin and hardener are not equal, you are not using a 1:1 mixing ratio, but a 1:1.18 ratio. If you want to mix by weight, you will need to use 5.1g resin and 4.3g hardener. |
| STEVEN LEDUC Sep 17, 2020 14:32:39 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Thanks mark, but i tried by volume at first and had the same results... |
| Mark Sep 17, 2020 22:34:29 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 If you mixed equal amounts and the epoxy is still sticky, the mixing was not uniform. It is best to use the mixing method using two separate containers if you are experiencing a sticky finish. If it is simply not hard enough, you will want to let it cure for a full 30 days. |
| STEVEN LEDUC Sep 17, 2020 22:44:13 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Yes i did the 2 separate containers... I mixed it for a long time. I tried again today.. i hope it'll be fine. |
| Flora Oct 26, 2020 09:53:53 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 Hello, I wish to epoxy an exposed wood beam in our shower. I was going to use NuLustre 55, warmed and brushed on in thin coats. However, I now see that NuLustre 57 or even 66 might be a better product for this application. Would 55 work in a shower, where it will be exposed to hot water and (indirect) sunlight? |
| Mark Oct 26, 2020 18:16:31 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 All of the Nu-Lustre products are resistant (tap) hot water and indirect sunlight. Nu-Lustre 27 is the best one to use for brushing, as it can be applied uniformly for thin application. |
| Dion Clark Nov 10, 2020 07:08:51 | Re: Nu Lustre 55, pouring a second coat Hello, I poured a bar top a week ago and it looks great. I am noticing some dust specs in the finish when light hits it from a certain angle and I would like to do a 2nd pour. Should I sand the top 1st to sand off the dust specs or will a new pour without sanding get rid of the specs as they will then be under the surface so light doesn't reflect off them. If sanding I was gonna use 220 and then whip off the dust with a micro fiber cloth and rubbing alcohol and then pour. What do you think. Thanks. PS: I'm gonna make a tent this time to put over the 2nd pour like the directions suggested. |
| Mark Nov 10, 2020 09:55:53 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 It would be best to lightly sand the surface with 200 grit or finer to remove any imperfections, smooth the surface, and create a better surface for gripping. Wipe off sanding dust with a damp cloth. Yes - a tent is the best way to go as there is always dust floating in the air. |
| Dion Nov 10, 2020 12:54:00 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 OK, perfect, thanks for the advice. |
| mike Jan 03, 2025 11:53:38 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 still sticky poured a few days ago still sticky i would say over a 1/4 inch think maybe 1/3 of a inch thick |
| Mark Jan 03, 2025 12:27:15 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 If the pour is still sticky after 24 hours, you likely did not mix the components thoroughly. You will need to repour over the existing finish. |
| patrick Jan 15, 2025 22:41:09 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 there is so much info here its great! my question is: instead of mixing by volume 1:1, is it possible to measure by weight? (Same 1:1?) do you know the ratio of proportion to weight thk. |
| Mark Jan 18, 2025 17:21:46 | Re: Nu Lustre 55 The specific gravity is 1.1 for the resin, and 1.0 for the hardener. Therefore, the mixing ratio by weight would be 1.1:1.0 Good luck with your project. |