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| Ingrid Jan 17, 2008 16:13:14 | Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application We recently bought an oak dining room table which we are in the process of trying to finish/protect. We went with the Antique Danish Oil/varnish in natural. I am not sure now if that was the best choice. After the first coat, applied with a cloth, we let it dry and then went over it with 280 grit sandpaper as it was very rough. We just applied the second coat and now after 24 hours it is again quite rough. My two questions are 1) when it says to "buff" does that mean to make it more rough so the next coat sticks better or does it mean to make it smooth? And 2) what do we do now to make it feel smooth and look uniform. I am wondering if we chose the wrong product and should have gone with a lemon oil or a natural oil. Thank you for any insight that you may have. |
| Neil Jan 17, 2008 23:07:26 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Did this table come finished??? or is it Bare wood. Did you do a hand sand(100 then 120 then 150)of the bare wood before applying finish. Inbetween coats of finsih you do a light sanding with 320. Antique Danish oil will impart a natural hand rubbed look. 2 coats over bare wood will give a very close to the wood film finish. This finish will give a moderate amount of protection. I prefer to use Antique Paste Varnish(high Protection) or Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Finish(The highest protection) on a table that is going to take alot of abuse |
| Ingrid Jan 18, 2008 08:59:04 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application The table came unfinished. We bought it from Ikea where they recommended just oiling it. We figured we needed more protection than that, yet we wanted a natural look as much as possible and wanted to avoid an obvious urithane look. We only hand sanded it with 280 as it was already quite smooth when we got it. We again used the 280 inbetween the coats. Should we use a 320 at this point, get it very smooth and then apply the Antique Danish oil again? Or would you recommend a different product for the last coat. Is Antique Danish oil ever able to get a smooth finish? Thank you for taking the time to address this issue. |
| Neil Jan 18, 2008 20:08:40 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Based on what you wanted you selected the right product for the job. When you say not smooth what do mean? Has dust settled in on your finish? Did you not remove the sanding dust when you originally sanded your piece. Was the finish still soft when you tried to sand it. Sanding to 280 shuts down the wood grain so that the finish would have a hard time being absorbed into the wood. That combined with not wiping off the excess perhaps would indicate that you may have left to much finish on the wood and thus slow the curing process. If the finish is not properly dried before sanding that could be where your problem occured. The sanding should also be very lightly done between coats with 320. At this point I would leave it alone for a couple of days and make sure the finish properly dries. I would sand or strip the finish off and start again. Also keep in mind that the best drying conditions are between 70- 75F and less than 50 % humidity. |
| Neil Jan 19, 2008 23:11:56 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application One more point. Personally, I do not even sand bewteen coats of antique danish oil. I lightly pass a medium grade synthetic pad to eliminate dust nubs and any wood fibers that are standing up. The antique Danish oil just dries is a little soft and is harder to sand than varnish. For a second coat in the past I have also done a wet sand with the Danish oil and then wiped off the excess. It looks amazing and dries as smooth as a babies bottom. Good Luck |
| Neil Jan 19, 2008 23:12:58 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application wet sand with 600 grit |
| Kate Feb 28, 2008 11:12:45 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application We have about 600 square feet of oak flooring to refinish. How can I apply the oil on a large surface liek this (because I won't be hand rubbing in 600 square feet.) |
| Neil Feb 28, 2008 21:33:47 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Yes, I agree on a surface area his large I would not employ this technique. If you are applying the Antique Danish Oil over an existing finish you must do the following. 1. Clean finished surface with TSP, Circa Furniture Cleaner or mineral spirits. 2. Degloss with 320 grit sand paper 3. Then apply Danish oil. Use a lint free aplicator good luck |
| Kate Feb 29, 2008 11:24:47 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Would a roller be suitable or is there a better applicator I can use? By the way we have Circa 1850 red mahogany Fine wood stain to apply as well. Can I apply that the same way I would apply any other stain? After applying the stain I can apply the Antique Danish oil right? |
| Neil Mar 01, 2008 21:46:59 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Staining a wide surface area like a floor is a tricky task. I would pick up one of those info booklets in the stores before you attempt this. Yes you may apply the Antique Danish Oil over the Red Mahogany. Let the stain dry for several days before you apply finish. Apply finish with an applicator designed to be used for floors. A roller will not due. |
| Neil Mar 01, 2008 23:07:08 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application FYI Circa Antique Danish Oil comes in approx 10 new wood tone colours.I am not sure if red mahogany is the equivalent to one of the new colours. If they have that colour this might be the way to go. Much easier to stain and finsh with this product. |
| lou May 28, 2008 19:29:21 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application How do I remove an oil finish in order to refinish maple with ancestral oil? The finish to be removed is either Danish oil or Tung oil. |
| Neil May 28, 2008 23:18:45 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper will make quick work of this finish. |
| Maggie Apr 16, 2012 15:06:32 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Where can I find details on how to apply this to a new pine floor? Quantity (how many coats)? Method sanding protocol etc...? The directions I can find on this site are surprisingly brief and somewhat incomplete. Is there a pdf available somewhere that I haven't found? If not can you elaborate? I'm having these floors done by someone who has used only polyurethane. |
| Neil Apr 16, 2012 16:20:49 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application These directions say it all. The stripper does the work. No sanding. You may want to use a wood scraper once the urethane is ready to be removed. If you plan to stain the wood afterwards you will have to sand with 150 grit to open the wood grain....good luck Wear Circa 1850 Stripping Gloves and work in a well ventilated area. Place the object to be stripped on a plastic sheet. Pour some stripper into a small foil, metal or glass container. Brush a liberal amount of stripper over one or two square feet of surface. Wait a few minutes for the finish to dissolve. Remove the dissolved finish using a brush or Circa 1850 Maple Scraper. Remove any residue with medium (0) steel wool dipped in stripper. When dry, wash the surface with mineral spirits or Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper. |
| Maggie Apr 19, 2012 15:05:09 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application This is a new pine floor. There is no stripping involved, just a sanding to smooth. |
| Neil Apr 19, 2012 15:56:34 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Its not a question of sanding to smooth. If your adding colour you must open up the wood grain so that the stan can penetrate. If you are only appling a clear finish it would then be more a situation where you rid the substrate of any roughness. good luck |
| Mark Apr 24, 2012 12:45:29 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application The only real difference between apply the Antique Danish Oil and a Polyurethane is that you should apply a thinner coat of Antique Danish Oil as opposed to a Polyurethane. All the other directions would be similar. |
| Peter Feb 11, 2013 22:17:08 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I appreciate this forum, (no matter how many years may have passed since a question was first asked)! A comment: It would help, a lot, if the manufacturing company were to provide fuller notes about their product, on the label. For example my question is now answered thanks to Neil and Mark, (above). But everything would have gone more easily, and quickly, had the label included notes about actual drying times, the significance of surface tackiness, and the product''s composition (oil and varnish - with potential ''dry-out'' problems). Knowing composition is also critical in first aid, should a child ingest it. |
| Mark Feb 12, 2013 06:40:21 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Thank you for your comments. We try to put as much useful information onto each label, within the confines its size. Of course, a good part of the label is governed by regulations. As well, since most product are sold in containers as small as 250mL, the same information must fit onto the smallest container in a font that is legible. |
| Brad Galatiuk Feb 15, 2013 06:49:46 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I am using tung oil on a natural white spruce mantle piece (it has some nice character grain)but I am not impressed with the resulting coloring. Can I use another color of danish oil (such as oak) over the 3 or four coats that I already applied so as to get a better color? |
| Mark Feb 15, 2013 08:05:27 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Certainly. You can apply Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil over your existing finish. |
| Peter Farncombe Feb 18, 2013 02:35:23 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Thanks for replying Mark, and so quickly. I appreciate that it''s hard to cram lots of information into a small space. However, a number of products use two-sided labels - one corner of which can be lifted and folded back to disclose a second (reverse) side containing more helpful info. Whatever the company decides to do (or not do) in terms of label space generally, I think it''s very important to provide some first aid comments at least naming the types of chemicals used. Parents understandably panic when they discover a child has ingested the product. They need clear, simple information to give a hospital quickly, or to direct their own rescue efforts. Cheers, Peter |
| Mark Feb 18, 2013 09:07:58 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Every consumer product sold in Canada is regulated by CCCR 2001, which standardizes the information required on a label. Every product that contains an ingredient that is potentially hazardous (either for a person or the environment) must have very specific warnings, and must include FIRST AID informatiion. The information is specific for the hazard, and must be distinguished from the rest of the label by a boxed outline and a contrasting background. If you have difficulty finding or reading the FIRST AID information, you should send your comments to HEALTH CANADA, so that they can propose amendments to these regulations. |
| Peter Farncombe Feb 18, 2013 19:15:12 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Thanks again, for this information. I''m embarrassed to say that when looking through the company''s earlier responses to others in terms of my own question, I examined the label (I thought carefully!) ... but nevertheless completely missed the first aid 'mineral spirits' reference. I've used these products for a number of years, always with satisfaction. And I certainly appreciate this forum. Cheers, Peter |
| Mark Feb 18, 2013 19:36:39 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Please do not feel embarrassed, and please continue to use this forum and post questions and comments. Your participation is great appreciated. As a company, we are always looking to improve based on the feedback of folks like you. |
| Heather Krueger Jul 09, 2013 13:31:01 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I used danish oil on a maple floor, but now when water sits on it is causes white marks. What can be done to prevent this? can I put a the antique varnish over top or can I top coat it with a varathane? |
| Mark Jul 09, 2013 16:31:07 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I believe you used Wood Shield Danish Oil. Is that correct? |
| Heather Krueger Jul 10, 2013 10:49:24 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Yes the wood shield danish oil was used. What can be done now? |
| Mark Jul 10, 2013 11:06:38 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application The Wood Shield Danish Oil is made with linseed oil, which is very susceptible to water marks. I would hesitate putting a different brand of Danish Oil over the top of this one as uncured linseed oil can cause problems over time. Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil is made with tung oil, and is therefore better suited for use on floors. At this point, I would lightly sand off the water mark, clean the surface with Circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner, and apply a good quality oil-based polyurethane, such as Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane. |
| Richard Jul 29, 2013 16:41:26 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I have finished a project (walking stick) in linseed oil, I was then asked to finish it with circa 1850 antique paste varnish, can I do this without any problem or will there be an issue? |
| Mark Jul 29, 2013 16:45:22 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application As long as the linseed oil is fully cured, you can apply Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish over the top of it. |
| Richard Aug 01, 2013 11:52:31 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Thanks Mark the linseed oil is about two weeks old on the project, it feels dry. |
| Mark Aug 01, 2013 11:56:28 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Apply a couple thin coats of Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish with a cloth. It should look beautiful and provide excellent protection. |
| Craig Aug 10, 2013 18:39:05 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Hello, I have applied two coats of Antique Danish oil to a coffee table I made of black walnut. I wanted to give it more protection, as it will see daily use. I am wondering if I could top it with a couple clear coats of fast drying polyurethane. Will the circa antique danish oil (clear) accept it? Or do I need to prep in any other way for best results. |
| Mark Aug 10, 2013 18:43:18 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application A light sanding is all that is required. |
| ken Apr 06, 2014 20:05:48 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Hi, I have applied a pre-treatment and oil stain to new elm stair treads and would like to finish with an oil+wax finish. Previous comments suggest that the wood pores are now sealed and wouldn''t accept any penetrating oil finish. Must I now remove all the stain and start over? Thanks. |
| Mak Apr 06, 2014 20:13:52 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application What type of oil are you looking to apply? |
| ken Apr 06, 2014 20:56:36 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I'm looking for a hard oil-like finish that doesn't look plasticky. I've read that some tung-oil- based products like Waterlox won't crack or wrinkle, so touch- ups don't require sanding down to bare wood. |
| Mark Apr 06, 2014 21:03:55 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Interior finishes rarely crack or wrinkle. Oil finishes are softer that pure varnishes, but are easier to refinish. |
| ken Apr 06, 2014 21:08:40 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Thanks Mark. But again, won't I have to sand down the oil-based stain if I choose a penetrating oil? |
| Julie Jun 29, 2014 00:07:17 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application What a great forum! Last year, I refinished my bedroom furniture with Circa 1850 Tung Oil, with outstanding results! These were 1960''s Danish walnut designer (Cadovius) pieces, so I took my sweet time (4 days, with 24-hour curing periods between coats). The 1st coat, I lathered the pieces with circling motion using a soft, lint- free cloth and let dry 24 hours, without removing the excess. The 2nd coat, I rubbed in following the wood grain using a #0000 steel wool and rubbed the excess and the dust after 20 minutes. I also let it cure for 24 hours. The final coat, I applied with a soft cloth following the wood grain and rubbed it in really well, using the cloth as a buffer, buffing it nearly dry. I let that obe also dry 24 hours before reassembling the modular unit. I waited about a week before putting any object on it. The furniture looked brand new!! Awesome results!! Now, I am refinishing the living room units, also 1960''s Danish walnut, probably finished with tung oil also. However, I would like to use Circa 1850 Danish Oil (Walnut) finish this time. I dud a 1st coat... And oooooohhh boy, it is a lot stickier than tung oil and I am scared: will I be able to get a very smooth finish like I did with the tung oil project? |
| Mark Jul 11, 2014 08:38:34 | RE: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application You are correct. Since Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil containts both tung oil and varnish, it is a lot "stickier" than the Circa 1850 Tung Oil. Your technique appears to be good, but you will always achieve better results if you apply thinner coats as opposed to lathering on and not removing any excess. |
| Carol Kruger Jun 04, 2016 10:06:55 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Hi! At the cottage we installed a pine floor with new wood. I wanted to oil it and put on hemp oil that someone recommended. I don't like it, the floor is hard to clean and I have to redo it every year and it is a big job. What can I use to get the nice oil finish that is not glossy but has good protection, not big upkeep? |
| Mark Jun 05, 2016 13:38:58 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application If you are looking for an oil finish that will offer more protection and will clean up easier than hemp oil, you should be looking at the Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil. Make sure the surface is clean, and apply a thin coat of the Antique Danish Oil using a cloth or pad applicator. Wait overnight and apply a second coat. |
| Grant Lavigne Mar 26, 2019 17:44:06 | Re: 1850 tong oil over 1850 Danish Oil ? My gunsmith cannot remember if he used danish oil or tong oil. The stock appears dry and I want to do a few more coats to bring the grain out and protect the wood. Can i simply apply the tong oil over the danish oil? I understand the tong oil is better if the rifle gets wet during use (rain or snow) |
| Mark Mar 26, 2019 19:37:21 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application You should not apply Circa 1850 Tung Oil over danish oil or varnish. If there is little or no finish on the fun stock, lightly sand the surface and apply the Tung Oil. |
| Yvon Leduc Mar 31, 2019 12:11:04 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I applied a coat of antique oil on a bare pine night stand. 24hrs later I applied a coat of paste varnish for a more durable finish. It says soft sheen, hand rubbed finish on the can. I find the results too shiny. So what can I do to get the the low sheen hand rub look? Should I lightly sand and apply another coat of antique oil or is there another circa product that could be applied. By the way antique oil has a very strong smell even with ventilation. Thanks Yvon |
| Yvon Leduc Mar 31, 2019 17:14:56 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Can I add antique oil to paste varnish for thinning purposes. I find my paste is a little thick. I know it can physically be done but will it affect the end result? If yes is there a rule of thumb for proportions or percent % ? Thanks Yvon |
| Mark Apr 01, 2019 09:47:41 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Yvon - for any finish that is too shiny, you can decrease the gloss by buffing the surface with 0000 steel wool, or 600 grit sandpaper. For any finish that you want to go on less glossy, you should apply with a cloth as opposed to a brush. Since you want a more durable finish, you should use the Antique Paste Varnish by itself as the final finish. You should not mix it with the Antique Danish Oil. If you find the varnish too thick, you can "thin" it by warming it up. You can place the can in a pot of warm water until you get to the consistency you desire. |
| Elizabeth Aug 19, 2019 20:43:09 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I have just stained my dinningroom table I have applied 3 coats of Danish Finishing Oil Do I need to use poly to protect This will be a table we use |
| Mark Aug 20, 2019 10:31:17 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application You do not have to put a polyurethane over Antique Danish Oil, as this oil-varnish finish will protect from everyday usage. Antique Paste Varnish or Fast Dry Polyurethane will provide better protection against spills and heat. |
| beverley Avano Apr 10, 2020 16:04:06 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application I have many old antiques that need a lift. They are dry. Can I apply Danish oil over wood that has been stained and varnished many years ago but needs lift. I do not want to sand them down they are too intricate. |
| Mark Apr 10, 2020 16:51:29 | Re: Antique Danish Oil (with varnish) Application Yes, you can certainly use Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil to spruce up previously stained or varnished wood. You will need to first clean the surface with Circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner or similar product to remove dirt, oils, wax or polish. |