Message de Forum
| De | Message |
| Randy Feb 09, 2005 10:06:36 | Tung Oil Mark, I have used the Circa 1850 Tung Oil on the cherry table I am building, and I am finding the finish quite blotchy, is this normal? It looks like the oil penetrated some areas and not others, which to me, does not look very good. I sanded it up to 220, then used 000 steel wool. I wiped the entire table down with paint thinner and then used a tack cloth after drying. I have applied two coats of tung oil, using a lint free cloth. I waited approx. 1-1/2 between coats. Is there any way to cure this problem? or I am stuck with it the way it is? Would a gel stain work at this point? Sorry lots of questions, but I am really quite disappointed with the outcome. Any advice would be appreciated. Randy |
| Eric Feb 11, 2005 03:31:50 | RE: Tung Oil I''m not 100% on what you mean by blotchy. However, it does sound as though the Tung Oil did not completely dry and that is why you encountered some problems. If you want to correct the problem, you will have to strip off the Tung Oil with something like the Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper. Once the surface has been stripped, you can then reapply the Tung Oil in thin coats. I would recommend waiting at least 12 -24 hours between coats however. See the most updated directions on the SWING website at http://www.swingpaints.com/1802.htm |
| Eileen Mar 10, 2010 09:21:18 | RE: Tung Oil I'm re-finishing a walnut veneer Singer sewing machine cabinet. First I stripped all finishes to bare wood, applied 1 even coat of Minwax special walnut stain and dried it over a weekend. I applied a first and second coat of Circa 1850 low lustre Tung Oil as directed, waiting 24 hours between coats and these went on nice and dried evenly. I used the recommended Circa 1850 extra fine pads in between coats. I waited 48 hours to apply the 3rd coat. The 3rd coat dried with a blotched finish; blotches of shiny and dull which looked like uneven penetration. So I abraded with 600 grit sandpaper, wiped it clean and re-coated with the Circa 1850 Tung Oil with a very thin coat. It does not have as blotched a finish now, but it still doesn't come close to how good it looked after the 1st and 2nd coats. Can you give me any advice on how to proceed from here? Thank you, Eileen |
| Mark Mar 10, 2010 11:36:06 | RE: Tung Oil Circa 1850 Tung Oil is a true drying oil that does not contain any other oils, varnishes or waxes. As a true drying oil, it should be applied in very thin coats, with the excess wiped off. It is very important to allow each coat to dry completely prior to reapplying a new coat. While the finish may feel dry to the touch, it is still possible that some of oil below the surface is still curing. Circa 1850 Tung Oil dries by contact with the oxygen in air. If the underlying oil takes longer to dry (either from applying coats too quickly or by applying too thick a coat) it will form a wrinkled skin that appears as dull spots to the naked eye. In order to achieve the same satin finish that you achieved with the first and second coat you should once again abrade the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a rag saturated with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any excess tung oil. Place the cabinet in a warm, sunny room with good ventilation and let the oil cure for 24 hours (or longer). Afterwards, you can apply another thin coat, wiping off the excess. Remember, since the wood is now sealed from the first two coats, each additional coat will take longer to completely cure. After stripping off my grandmother''s old Singer sewing machine, I applied three thin coats of Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil to more closely match the original sheen. |
| Eileen Mar 10, 2010 12:39:50 | RE: Tung Oil Thank you for your help. We waited 72 hours between the 2nd and 3rd coats but apparently it wasn''''t long enough. Today the piece was sanded with 600 grit and wiped with mineral spirits as per your directions prior to applying another coat of tung oil. Am I correct in assuming the blotches will disappear after longer drying time? Thanks again, Eileen |
| Mark Mar 10, 2010 12:46:06 | RE: Tung Oil I am not sure what areas you consider blotches. In your sanding, you must make sure you remove the dull finish areas - these are the spots where the finish did not cure properly (tung oil skinned over and then wrinkled). |
| Eileen Mar 10, 2010 14:34:06 | RE: Tung Oil Thank you for your helpful advice, Eileen |
| Ron Aug 15, 2010 19:03:01 | RE: Tung Oil I notice that you do not recommend 100% pure tung oil for food contact. I also notice that the Lee Valley 100% tung oil is considered good for food contact. I have often seen articles that suggest pure tung oil for salad bowls and butcher blocks. What is the real story here? |
| Mark Aug 16, 2010 12:58:39 | RE: Tung Oil I am not sure there is a "real" story, but here goes. Our 100% tung oil is the same as Lee Valley sells, or most any other suppliers. It is raw tung oil, pressed from the tung nut. The tung oil is supplied from South America or China. However, there is a big difference between the oils that we buy in grocery stores for cooking and eating, and the same oils that are used in industry. The issue that I have is that the tung oil, while it is marked as 100% raw tung oil, is not certified as food grade. What that means to me is that it is not processed (pressed), stored or transported under inspection, or using food grade materials. Some questions I have are: What was the press used for previously, and was it properly cleaned? Is the oil transported in properly cleaned tankers or drums, and what was in these vessels previously? Could there be any contamination from animal or plants during processing? So my concern has nothing to do with tung oil (although some persons are allergic to nut oils and may reaction to this one), but has to do with the fact that the tung oil is not certified for contact with food. |
| Ron Aug 16, 2010 13:34:45 | RE: Tung Oil Thanks Mark. Just about what I expected. I have been using pure tung oil as a salad bowl finish for years with no negative side affects. The tung oil seems to stand up to moisture and mild acids much better than other "salad bowl finishes". What has often bothered me about those products labeled Salad bowl finishes when viewing the MSDS sheets, they often contain solvents and driers and it is suggested the bowl cure for a month before using. Time for the solvents and driers to gas off I guess. I know mineral oil is the safest finish for food contact, but they too are not labeled certified for food contact either. Problem with mineral oil is that it does not stand up like pure tung oil. So I guess I would really like to see a certified tung oil for food contact. Do you thing Swing paints could come up with something like that? Google Ron Ball and art to see samples of my work on various web sites. Some pieces of work also use your Nu-Luster 55. Check it out. |
| theresa Dec 13, 2011 20:01:16 | RE: Tung Oil Do you recommend using Tung Oil or Linseed Oil on a Basswood floor? |
| Mark Dec 14, 2011 10:13:07 | RE: Tung Oil Tung oil is generally considered a better finish for several reasons: Tung oil cures faster than linseed oil. Over time, tung oil does not turn as yellow as linseed oil. Over time, tung oil does not become sticky, which may happen with linseed oil. |
| karen Feb 04, 2012 09:39:36 | RE: Tung Oil how do i get the stupid lid off without breaking it and not being able to seal it up properly again. |
| Mark Feb 04, 2012 12:29:49 | RE: Tung Oil If the can is new, twist off the outer red cap and pull the ring to release the inner seal. If the can has been opened and closed, you may need to use a cap opener or pair of pliers to break the bond between the red cap and the black base. |
| Maggie Apr 16, 2012 12:45:33 | RE: Tung Oil Is this a good choice as a finish throughout my cottage (kitchen and bath included) for the new pine floors? Is there a better (non-urethane) product? |
| Mark Apr 24, 2012 12:49:50 | RE: Tung Oil Antique Danish Oil will offer more protection, so I would definately use it in the kitchen and bath areas. Tung Oil is a very natural finish (not much of a sheen), which would work well if you don't care about minor water marks. |
| Richard May 11, 2012 09:45:09 | RE: Tung Oil I''ve made a new cherry table that has 5 coats of 100% Tung Oil about 6 months ago. It had a few blotches and one minor water ring. I tired rubbing with 0000 steel wool and applying another coat of Tung Oil. Unfortuantely that made more blotches they look like satiny and dull surfaces on the wood) and I have no idea what to do next. Can anyone help? |
| NEIL May 13, 2012 10:22:33 | RE: Tung Oil In a previous thread Marks write the following. I would also like to add that 100% pure raw tung oil is a little hard to work with. It has no dryers and thus you have to make sure that you leave alot time for the coats to dry. Circa 1850 Tung Oil is a true drying oil that does not contain any other oils, varnishes or waxes. As a true drying oil, it should be applied in very thin coats, with the excess wiped off. It is very important to allow each coat to dry completely prior to reapplying a new coat. While the finish may feel dry to the touch, it is still possible that some of oil below the surface is still curing. Circa 1850 Tung Oil dries by contact with the oxygen in air. If the underlying oil takes longer to dry (either from applying coats too quickly or by applying too thick a coat) it will form a wrinkled skin that appears as dull spots to the naked eye. In order to achieve the same satin finish that you achieved with the first and second coat you should once again abrade the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a rag saturated with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any excess tung oil. Place the cabinet in a warm, sunny room with good ventilation and let the oil cure for 24 hours (or longer). Afterwards, you can apply another thin coat, wiping off the excess. Remember, since the wood is now sealed from the first two coats, each additional coat will take longer to completely cure. |
| Angela Carthy May 14, 2012 12:00:16 | RE: Tung Oil I need help, my boss has a large wooden cabinet surrounding an aquarium in his office, it''s double sided. It was stained but never varnished and as per his direction I applied a thin coat of Tung oil to it and allowed it to dry. The outside looks great and I finished off the first bottle on 4 of the panels in his office and opened up a new can. Used the same tecqnique as before but it''s streaked with large dull patches and look awful. I got another bottle and tried another coat on one of the smaller panels and it didn''t help. How can this be fixed. |
| Neil May 14, 2012 17:34:22 | RE: Tung Oil Hi Angela I just want to make sure I understand what you did. You applied 1 coat to all sides and it looked good. Then you applied a second coat and you have dull patches. Is this what happened? What brand product did you use specifically? What is the exact name of the product on the can? Generally speaking the first coat of Tung Oil will penetrate the bare wood and cure. In your case you had a stained piece which may potentially limit penetration. That being said let?s assume the oil penetrated as it should. The result would be a uniform satin appearance with no film build on the surface of the wood. If you start applying multiple coats to build a film on the surface of the wood the following coats will take longer to dry and it becomes harder to produce a pleasing satin sheen. So what do after the 1st coat? In order to achieve the same satin finish that you achieved with the first coat you should abrade the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a rag saturated with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any excess Tung oil. Open up the windows (assuming the temps are warm with low humidity levels) let the sun shine in ensure proper ventilation and let the oil cure for 48-96 hours (or longer). Afterwards, you can apply another thin coat, wiping off the excess. Remember, since the wood is now sealed from the first two coats, each additional coat will take longer to completely cure. Most DIYERS find that 1 or 2 coats at the most should be enough. Good Luck |
| Angela May 14, 2012 17:50:05 | RE: Tung Oil Hi Neil I used the Circa 1850 Tung Oil, this is the first coat and the only difference is his office is usually closed when he is out and with a very large aquarium in it. The cabinet is built around the aquarium, but the outside is in our foyer and has better ventilation. The Friday I applied it was very warm so would the humidity affect the curing time. It's been a couple of weeks now, so it should be dried. If we take sand paper to it won't that effect the stain? Due to the aquaruim we were looking for a safe method to get that satin finish that won't kill the fish. Any advice would be appreciated. |
| Neil May 14, 2012 17:58:25 | RE: Tung Oil Hi Angela, You have a point about sanding a stained surface. The sanding could dislodge some of the pigment in the stain. This would not be good. Sorry, I did not think about that. Let me look into this a little further. |
| Neil May 15, 2012 12:04:32 | RE: Tung Oil Hi Angela, It was nice chatting with you yesterday. We determined that your custom built cabinets were stained and finished. Real Tung Oil should be applied to bare wood. If you wish to apply multiple coats of Tung Oil to bare wood please follow the instructions in the previous threads. In your case a varnish or oil/varnish type product should be used. i.e.: Circa 1850 Antique Danish oil, Circa 1850 Paste Varnish or Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Finish. Good Luck |
| Bob May 16, 2012 09:28:33 | RE: Tung Oil I have an old barn beam I want to use as a mantel. I want to use tung oil but the surface is rough and I don't want to sand the natural texture of the wood. I want to use tung oil but everything I read says the surface needs to be smooth. I have power washed it so it is clean but the surface is rough. Can I stll apply tung oil. Any advice or tricks of the trade. |
| Neil May 16, 2012 22:15:56 | RE: Tung Oil Hi Bob, I have never applied Tung Oil to a rough surface like the one you describe. It might make it harder to wipe off any excess Tung Oil that you apply. Try a very fine application of the Tung Oil. It really should help bring out the natural beauty of the wood. Only use the Tung Oil if the beam has never been finished before (BARE WOOD). GOOD LUCK |
| Jan Jul 17, 2012 13:32:24 | RE: Tung Oil I recently put Circa Tung Oil on a new (bare wood)pine dresser. About 4 coats, applied on my veranda. The dresser looks beautiful, the finish is nice and even and has a beautiful tone. But it has been indoors for a week and is still slightly sticky. Is there any way I can remove that slight stickiness? |
| Mark Jul 18, 2012 15:09:46 | RE: Tung Oil The tung oil just needs more time to cure, especially with four coats. So, the best way to allow the tung oil to cure would be to put the dresser in a warm, dry, sunny location with good air flow. Outdoors protected from the rain would be perfect. |
| Jan Jul 18, 2012 22:27:27 | RE: Tung Oil I used up part of an older can which said to wait 4 hrs between coats. I followed these instructions even when I opened a new can. And then read instructions on the new can which say to wait 24 hours between coats. I think that one of the coats underneath didn''t dry. If this is the case will it dry eventually? If I have to remove it and start again is paint stripper (Circa)the only option? |
| Mark Jul 18, 2012 23:21:40 | RE: Tung Oil Even if you waited four hours between, the Tung oil wil eventually cure. Warm. Dry. Sunny. Airy. If you need to remove cured tung oil, Circa 1850 Furniture Strippier will work. |
| Robyn Dec 11, 2014 15:13:31 | RE: Tung Oil Hi there I used circa 1850 tung oil on my new beech butcher block counters from ikea. 1) Is 2 coats enough to provide good protection from water? 2) Can I apply a beeswax or beeswax and mineral oil combo on the top of the tung oil as an extra guard against water? (we will not be cutting on these counters) |
| Mark Dec 11, 2014 15:31:13 | RE: Tung Oil Tung oil is a wonderful finish for butcher block counters. You can certainly add a third thin coat if you like. Tung oil will give you nice protection from water, but not if the water is left to pool on the surface. You can apply a coat of wax over the tung oil, as this will act as an additional barrier to water. Beeswax is not a very durable wax, so you will probably need to reapply fairly often if you wash the surface with soapy water. A carnauba-based wax, such as Antiquax, would be a better choice. |
| Robyn Dec 11, 2014 16:05:29 | RE: Tung Oil Mark Thanks so much! Very helpful. With the wax on top, if for some reason there is a stain on the counter (marker for instance) can I just sand out the mark and reapply the wax or tung oil and wax? |
| Mark Dec 11, 2014 16:14:14 | RE: Tung Oil I thought this was a kitchen countertop.....so you must have kids :-) The tung oil is a fairly permanent finish. If there is marker stain (doubtful on top of wax), you would remove the wax using a wax remover [Circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner or similar]. If removal of the wax also removes the stain, you can simply apply another coat of wax. If the stain has penetrated into the wood, you will still need to remove the wax, but you would also have to remove the stain. Sanding would be a last resort as some stains can penetrate quite deep, and you would not want to remove that much wood. The procedure for removing the stain would depend on what did the staining. Regardless, if the stain is in the wood, the stain would have to be removed, and then you would re-oil and re-wax. |
| Mark Hamilton Dec 18, 2014 05:39:34 | RE: Tung Oil Can you apply paste wax to a Tung oil finished product? Thanks, |
| Mark Dec 18, 2014 06:43:52 | RE: Tung Oil Paste Wax can be applied on top of any finish. |
| Rick Dec 24, 2014 08:29:16 | RE: Tung Oil Can I top coat Tung oil with a poly if they find it not durable enough on a floor? |
| Mark Dec 25, 2014 12:42:59 | RE: Tung Oil Yes, you can apply an oil-based polyurethane on top of tung oil for added durability. |
| Ed Mar 31, 2015 14:28:46 | RE: Tung Oil Hi, What percentage of Circa 1850 Tung oil is Tung Oil and what % is mineral spirits. I need to know as I want to finish a walnut bodied guitar with tung Oil and I can't have it 100% Thank you |
| Mark Mar 31, 2015 15:34:36 | RE: Tung Oil Circa 1850 Tung Oil is made with approximately two thirds raw tung oil. The remaining third is mineral spirits and special additives to enhance flow, penetration and curing. |
| Wanda Apr 08, 2015 19:59:22 | RE: Tung Oil I am using circa 1850 tung oil on my hardwood floors. They feel dry but I am concerned as to when it is safe for pets to walk across them. If anyone knows I would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks |
| Mark Apr 09, 2015 02:14:36 | Re: Tung Oil After 24 hours the Tung oil should be cured. Longer cure times occur with low temperature, high humidity, or poor air circulation. |
| Cheryl May 29, 2017 17:46:01 | Re: Tung Oil I am reapplying tung oil to a tung oiled table. Directions say to wipe off the excess immediately. When I do this the finish turns dull. The excess tung oil which I just applied seems sticky as I wipe the excess off. Why is the dullness happening. Is the tung oil to old? |
| Mark May 29, 2017 19:19:45 | Re: Tung Oil Was the previous brand of tung oil Circa 1850? There are a few brands out there that sell "tung oil finish" that is not actually raw tung oil. |
| Lindsay Mar 15, 2019 13:02:27 | Re: Tung Oil Hi there, I am making cedar steam boxes for women's reproductive health issues and have used Cica 1850 Tung oil. I didn't realise until now that this is not a pure tung oil and has mineral spirits and special additives in it". While using these boxes, a bowl of steaming herbs are put into the box and patients sits on top of the box (it has lid with a hole in it like a little outhouse seat) and the steam rises to help heal reproductive areas. There is no physical contact of the herbs with the box itself as the herbs are in a pot placed inside the box, but the steam has contact with the box obviously. In my research I have found that mineral spirits off gas after application and don't exist in the wood after the off gassing. Is this correct? I am also wondering what the other special additives are to this oil and if they are toxic to human being. Im wondering if I need to remake these steam boxes now as I am worried about transferred toxicity from the steaming process to the person steaming. I really appreciate your help and advice. |
| Lindsay Mar 15, 2019 13:53:19 | Re: Tung Oil Sorry, I used the word off gas in the question above but was I meant was that I have heard that mineral spirits evaporate ending up with what would be considered a pure tung oil after evoporation? Is this true? |
| Mark Mar 15, 2019 17:17:10 | Re: Tung Oil Good catch! Yes, once the solvent evaporates, all that is left is tung oil. The other small additives are there to prevent skinning and aid in drying. There are in such small quantities they are considered harmless. I think you are good. |
| Lindsay Morris Mar 15, 2019 21:20:05 | Re: Tung Oil Thanks so much Mark, am I correct in my information that mineral spirits evaporate in 24 hours. I really appreciate your help and expertise. |
| Mark Mar 15, 2019 22:19:11 | Re: Tung Oil The mineral spirits will evaporate in a few hours. Another option you can use would be Circa 1850 Outdoor Oil, which is made with plant-based oils. Yhe solvent used in this finish is derived from citrus and tree oils. |
| Steve Apr 14, 2019 14:10:42 | Re: Tung Oil I have a harvest table unfinished. Is circa 1850 Tung Oil safe for this? Food safe? Thanks |
| Mark Apr 15, 2019 06:49:31 | Re: Tung Oil Yes, once Circa 1850 Tung Oil has cured it is safe to use for kitchen tables and counters. |
| Jeff Apr 24, 2019 20:24:50 | Re: Tung Oil I need to refinish redwood planks for an outdoor table top. Originally these were stained, 2 coats of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) applied, and then several coats of marine varnish. After 2 years, the varnish had peeled and I re-varnished. The varnish is peeling again and I thought about refinishing this time with your Circa 1850 Outdoor Oil (Teak n Tung Oil). The instructions say to apply only on bare, stained, or oiled wood, but I wonder if CPES would be OK. The CPES does penetrate at least 1/2" on application, but cures as a gel and has likely degraded as the varnish on top of it has degraded. Do you think the Outdoor Oil is worth a try or a test so see if it can be absorbed? If it did penetrate, would it then last a year or so? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. |
| Mark Apr 25, 2019 10:51:55 | Re: Tung Oil I am a bit concerned that the exterior varnish that you used peeled off on two occasions. A good quality exterior varnish, properly applied on a clean substrate, should never peel. You can certainly use Circa 1850 Exterior Oil, but you will have to sand or strip off all the existing varnish. Outdoor Oil is a penetrating oil finish (no varnish) so it will leave the redwood look and feel, and will never peel. On a horizontal surface with 12 months of exposure, you will want to clean (soapy water or detergent) and reapply Exterior Oil annually. For vertical, covered, or seasonal exposure, you can probably get by with a couple years before cleaning and recoating. Since Exterior Oil is not a varnish, you will never have to sand or strip it off in order to apply another coat. |
| Bonnie Mackinnon. Jan 23, 2020 17:17:14 | Re: Tung Oil Can you use a mineral/wax for spot treatments from staining/sanding after using a 1850 Tung oil application or should Tung just be used again? |
| Mark Jan 24, 2020 06:46:38 | Re: Tung Oil Once you apply a wax, you must remove it prior to re-oiling. Since tung oil is a very renewable finish that only requires a clean surface, you may simply want to re-oil when you need to treat. Waxes or polishes can be applied to any surface for additional protection or to enhance the look. |