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| Randy 2/9/2005 10:06:36 AM |
 Subject:
Tung OilMessage: Mark, I have used the Circa 1850 Tung Oil on the cherry table I am building, and I am finding the finish quite blotchy, is this normal? It looks like the oil penetrated some areas and not others, which to me, does not look very good. I sanded it up to 220, then used 000 steel wool. I wiped the entire table down with paint thinner and then used a tack cloth after drying. I have applied two coats of tung oil, using a lint free cloth. I waited approx. 1-1/2 between coats. Is there any way to cure this problem? or I am stuck with it the way it is? Would a gel stain work at this point? Sorry lots of questions, but I am really quite disappointed with the outcome. Any advice would be appreciated. Randy |
| Eric 2/11/2005 3:31:50 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I''m not 100% on what you mean by blotchy. However, it does sound as though the Tung Oil did not completely dry and that is why you encountered some problems. If you want to correct the problem, you will have to strip off the Tung Oil with something like the Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper. Once the surface has been stripped, you can then reapply the Tung Oil in thin coats. I would recommend waiting at least 12 -24 hours between coats however. See the most updated directions on the SWING website at http://www.swingpaints.com/1802.htm |
| Eileen 3/10/2010 9:21:18 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I'm re-finishing a walnut veneer Singer sewing machine cabinet. First I stripped all finishes to bare wood, applied 1 even coat of Minwax special walnut stain and dried it over a weekend. I applied a first and second coat of Circa 1850 low lustre Tung Oil as directed, waiting 24 hours between coats and these went on nice and dried evenly. I used the recommended Circa 1850 extra fine pads in between coats. I waited 48 hours to apply the 3rd coat. The 3rd coat dried with a blotched finish; blotches of shiny and dull which looked like uneven penetration. So I abraded with 600 grit sandpaper, wiped it clean and re-coated with the Circa 1850 Tung Oil with a very thin coat. It does not have as blotched a finish now, but it still doesn't come close to how good it looked after the 1st and 2nd coats. Can you give me any advice on how to proceed from here? Thank you, Eileen |
| Mark 3/10/2010 11:36:06 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Circa 1850 Tung Oil is a true drying oil that does not contain any other oils, varnishes or waxes. As a true drying oil, it should be applied in very thin coats, with the excess wiped off. It is very important to allow each coat to dry completely prior to reapplying a new coat. While the finish may feel dry to the touch, it is still possible that some of oil below the surface is still curing. Circa 1850 Tung Oil dries by contact with the oxygen in air. If the underlying oil takes longer to dry (either from applying coats too quickly or by applying too thick a coat) it will form a wrinkled skin that appears as dull spots to the naked eye. In order to achieve the same satin finish that you achieved with the first and second coat you should once again abrade the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a rag saturated with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any excess tung oil. Place the cabinet in a warm, sunny room with good ventilation and let the oil cure for 24 hours (or longer). Afterwards, you can apply another thin coat, wiping off the excess. Remember, since the wood is now sealed from the first two coats, each additional coat will take longer to completely cure. After stripping off my grandmother''s old Singer sewing machine, I applied three thin coats of Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil to more closely match the original sheen. |
| Eileen 3/10/2010 12:39:50 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Thank you for your help. We waited 72 hours between the 2nd and 3rd coats but apparently it wasn''''t long enough. Today the piece was sanded with 600 grit and wiped with mineral spirits as per your directions prior to applying another coat of tung oil. Am I correct in assuming the blotches will disappear after longer drying time? Thanks again, Eileen |
| Mark 3/10/2010 12:46:06 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I am not sure what areas you consider blotches. In your sanding, you must make sure you remove the dull finish areas - these are the spots where the finish did not cure properly (tung oil skinned over and then wrinkled). |
| Eileen 3/10/2010 2:34:06 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Thank you for your helpful advice, Eileen |
| Ron 8/15/2010 7:03:01 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I notice that you do not recommend 100% pure tung oil for food contact. I also notice that the Lee Valley 100% tung oil is considered good for food contact. I have often seen articles that suggest pure tung oil for salad bowls and butcher blocks. What is the real story here? |
| Mark 8/16/2010 12:58:39 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I am not sure there is a "real" story, but here goes. Our 100% tung oil is the same as Lee Valley sells, or most any other suppliers. It is raw tung oil, pressed from the tung nut. The tung oil is supplied from South America or China. However, there is a big difference between the oils that we buy in grocery stores for cooking and eating, and the same oils that are used in industry. The issue that I have is that the tung oil, while it is marked as 100% raw tung oil, is not certified as food grade. What that means to me is that it is not processed (pressed), stored or transported under inspection, or using food grade materials. Some questions I have are: What was the press used for previously, and was it properly cleaned? Is the oil transported in properly cleaned tankers or drums, and what was in these vessels previously? Could there be any contamination from animal or plants during processing? So my concern has nothing to do with tung oil (although some persons are allergic to nut oils and may reaction to this one), but has to do with the fact that the tung oil is not certified for contact with food. |
| Ron 8/16/2010 1:34:45 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Thanks Mark. Just about what I expected. I have been using pure tung oil as a salad bowl finish for years with no negative side affects. The tung oil seems to stand up to moisture and mild acids much better than other "salad bowl finishes". What has often bothered me about those products labeled Salad bowl finishes when viewing the MSDS sheets, they often contain solvents and driers and it is suggested the bowl cure for a month before using. Time for the solvents and driers to gas off I guess. I know mineral oil is the safest finish for food contact, but they too are not labeled certified for food contact either. Problem with mineral oil is that it does not stand up like pure tung oil. So I guess I would really like to see a certified tung oil for food contact. Do you thing Swing paints could come up with something like that? Google Ron Ball and art to see samples of my work on various web sites. Some pieces of work also use your Nu-Luster 55. Check it out. |
| theresa 12/13/2011 8:01:16 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Do you recommend using Tung Oil or Linseed Oil on a Basswood floor? |
| Mark 12/14/2011 10:13:07 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Tung oil is generally considered a better finish for several reasons: Tung oil cures faster than linseed oil. Over time, tung oil does not turn as yellow as linseed oil. Over time, tung oil does not become sticky, which may happen with linseed oil. |
| karen 2/4/2012 9:39:36 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: how do i get the stupid lid off without breaking it and not being able to seal it up properly again. |
| Mark 2/4/2012 12:29:49 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: If the can is new, twist off the outer red cap and pull the ring to release the inner seal. If the can has been opened and closed, you may need to use a cap opener or pair of pliers to break the bond between the red cap and the black base. |
| Maggie 4/16/2012 12:45:33 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Is this a good choice as a finish throughout my cottage (kitchen and bath included) for the new pine floors? Is there a better (non-urethane) product? |
| Mark 4/24/2012 12:49:50 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Antique Danish Oil will offer more protection, so I would definately use it in the kitchen and bath areas. Tung Oil is a very natural finish (not much of a sheen), which would work well if you don't care about minor water marks. |
| Richard 5/11/2012 9:45:09 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I''ve made a new cherry table that has 5 coats of 100% Tung Oil about 6 months ago. It had a few blotches and one minor water ring. I tired rubbing with 0000 steel wool and applying another coat of Tung Oil. Unfortuantely that made more blotches they look like satiny and dull surfaces on the wood) and I have no idea what to do next. Can anyone help? |
| NEIL 5/13/2012 10:22:33 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: In a previous thread Marks write the following. I would also like to add that 100% pure raw tung oil is a little hard to work with. It has no dryers and thus you have to make sure that you leave alot time for the coats to dry. Circa 1850 Tung Oil is a true drying oil that does not contain any other oils, varnishes or waxes. As a true drying oil, it should be applied in very thin coats, with the excess wiped off. It is very important to allow each coat to dry completely prior to reapplying a new coat. While the finish may feel dry to the touch, it is still possible that some of oil below the surface is still curing. Circa 1850 Tung Oil dries by contact with the oxygen in air. If the underlying oil takes longer to dry (either from applying coats too quickly or by applying too thick a coat) it will form a wrinkled skin that appears as dull spots to the naked eye. In order to achieve the same satin finish that you achieved with the first and second coat you should once again abrade the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a rag saturated with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any excess tung oil. Place the cabinet in a warm, sunny room with good ventilation and let the oil cure for 24 hours (or longer). Afterwards, you can apply another thin coat, wiping off the excess. Remember, since the wood is now sealed from the first two coats, each additional coat will take longer to completely cure. |
| Angela Carthy 5/14/2012 12:00:16 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I need help, my boss has a large wooden cabinet surrounding an aquarium in his office, it''s double sided. It was stained but never varnished and as per his direction I applied a thin coat of Tung oil to it and allowed it to dry. The outside looks great and I finished off the first bottle on 4 of the panels in his office and opened up a new can. Used the same tecqnique as before but it''s streaked with large dull patches and look awful. I got another bottle and tried another coat on one of the smaller panels and it didn''t help. How can this be fixed. |
| Neil 5/14/2012 5:34:22 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Hi Angela I just want to make sure I understand what you did. You applied 1 coat to all sides and it looked good. Then you applied a second coat and you have dull patches. Is this what happened? What brand product did you use specifically? What is the exact name of the product on the can? Generally speaking the first coat of Tung Oil will penetrate the bare wood and cure. In your case you had a stained piece which may potentially limit penetration. That being said let’s assume the oil penetrated as it should. The result would be a uniform satin appearance with no film build on the surface of the wood. If you start applying multiple coats to build a film on the surface of the wood the following coats will take longer to dry and it becomes harder to produce a pleasing satin sheen. So what do after the 1st coat? In order to achieve the same satin finish that you achieved with the first coat you should abrade the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a rag saturated with mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove any excess Tung oil. Open up the windows (assuming the temps are warm with low humidity levels) let the sun shine in ensure proper ventilation and let the oil cure for 48-96 hours (or longer). Afterwards, you can apply another thin coat, wiping off the excess. Remember, since the wood is now sealed from the first two coats, each additional coat will take longer to completely cure. Most DIYERS find that 1 or 2 coats at the most should be enough. Good Luck |
| Angela 5/14/2012 5:50:05 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Hi Neil I used the Circa 1850 Tung Oil, this is the first coat and the only difference is his office is usually closed when he is out and with a very large aquarium in it. The cabinet is built around the aquarium, but the outside is in our foyer and has better ventilation. The Friday I applied it was very warm so would the humidity affect the curing time. It's been a couple of weeks now, so it should be dried. If we take sand paper to it won't that effect the stain? Due to the aquaruim we were looking for a safe method to get that satin finish that won't kill the fish. Any advice would be appreciated. |
| Neil 5/14/2012 5:58:25 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Hi Angela, You have a point about sanding a stained surface. The sanding could dislodge some of the pigment in the stain. This would not be good. Sorry, I did not think about that. Let me look into this a little further. |
| Neil 5/15/2012 12:04:32 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Hi Angela, It was nice chatting with you yesterday. We determined that your custom built cabinets were stained and finished. Real Tung Oil should be applied to bare wood. If you wish to apply multiple coats of Tung Oil to bare wood please follow the instructions in the previous threads. In your case a varnish or oil/varnish type product should be used. i.e.: Circa 1850 Antique Danish oil, Circa 1850 Paste Varnish or Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Finish. Good Luck |
| Bob 5/16/2012 9:28:33 AM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I have an old barn beam I want to use as a mantel. I want to use tung oil but the surface is rough and I don't want to sand the natural texture of the wood. I want to use tung oil but everything I read says the surface needs to be smooth. I have power washed it so it is clean but the surface is rough. Can I stll apply tung oil. Any advice or tricks of the trade. |
| Neil 5/16/2012 10:15:56 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Hi Bob, I have never applied Tung Oil to a rough surface like the one you describe. It might make it harder to wipe off any excess Tung Oil that you apply. Try a very fine application of the Tung Oil. It really should help bring out the natural beauty of the wood. Only use the Tung Oil if the beam has never been finished before (BARE WOOD). GOOD LUCK |
| Jan 7/17/2012 1:32:24 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I recently put Circa Tung Oil on a new (bare wood)pine dresser. About 4 coats, applied on my veranda. The dresser looks beautiful, the finish is nice and even and has a beautiful tone. But it has been indoors for a week and is still slightly sticky. Is there any way I can remove that slight stickiness? |
| Mark 7/18/2012 3:09:46 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: The tung oil just needs more time to cure, especially with four coats. So, the best way to allow the tung oil to cure would be to put the dresser in a warm, dry, sunny location with good air flow. Outdoors protected from the rain would be perfect. |
| Jan 7/18/2012 10:27:27 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: I used up part of an older can which said to wait 4 hrs between coats. I followed these instructions even when I opened a new can. And then read instructions on the new can which say to wait 24 hours between coats. I think that one of the coats underneath didn''t dry. If this is the case will it dry eventually? If I have to remove it and start again is paint stripper (Circa)the only option? |
| Mark 7/18/2012 11:21:40 PM |
RE: Tung Oil Message: Even if you waited four hours between, the Tung oil wil eventually cure. Warm. Dry. Sunny. Airy. If you need to remove cured tung oil, Circa 1850 Furniture Strippier will work. |
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