Swing Paints Message Board

From	Message
Peter 5/02/2002 08:18:46	Subject: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have started using the furniture stripper to remove the varnish on my oak staircase. Can you offer any suggestions on how I can make this job easier? What would be the best brush to use, any tricks on how to do the spindels etc???? Thanks Peter
Mark 5/02/2002 10:30:18	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Peter, PREPARATION - is the key to achieving success. Make sure that you have everything that you need, especially the proper tools before starting the job - stripper, working container, plastic sheet or dropcloth, pure bristle brush (1 1/2 - 2 inch, medium quality), rags, stripping pads or steel wool, wooden scraper, gloves, safety glasses, tooth picks... Place plastic drop cloths on floors and walls to avoid damage. Pour the stripper into a glass jar or metal can. Use a pure bristle brush to apply the stripper to the finish, and allow it to work for a few minutes. You will probably want to work from the top down (hand rail then spindles then steps) so that you do not make a mess of what you have already stripped. I usually use the same brush, dipped into the stripper, to push the finish off the surface. The idea is to remove as much of the finish as possible on the curved surfaces using the paint brush. Depending on the type of varnish, you may also want to use the wooden scraper to gently take off the finish (even from the rounded parts). Small pieces of wood (tooth picks) are perfect for removing the varnish from tight spots. Rope or twine is ideal for "flossing" the finish off of spindles. For the flat stairs, you can use the wooden scraper to quickly remove all the softened varnish. Once you are satisfied that 99% of the finish is removed, you can use the synthetic pads or steel wool to remove any residue. I prefer the stripping pads because they do not splinter and last a lot longer. Mark
Frank 4/16/2003 10:16:37	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I just wanted to say thanks for the tip, I am also about to begin redoing my staircase. Mine is an oak staircase with oak pickets that are I guess naturally finished using eurothene?, does the same procedure apply. Any tips would be greatly appreciated thanks...
Mark 4/16/2003 11:19:46	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Frank, Urethane and varnish are generic terms that usually refer to the same product. Follow the procedure above for the best results.
john 5/02/2003 16:00:04	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We are in the midst of stripping our oak staircase of its 3+ coats of paint. How do i prevent the stripper from bleeding through the masking tape onto the paint and wallpaper of the adjoining wall? Would petroleum jelly provide an effective barrier?
Karen Burnside 7/10/2003 21:49:10	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I am looking at refinishing my oak staircase to a darker stain. What are the costs associated with doing it myself vs professionally.
Mark 7/11/2003 07:36:28	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Karen, There are two ways to go about it yourself. One is to strip off the existing finish, sand, stain and refinish with two coats of polyurethane. The material costs are minimal (couple gallons of stripper, sandpaper, litre of stain, gallon of polyurethane) but there is a lot of labour involved. The alternative is to use Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish over the exising finish. You would need to clean and lightly sand the staircase, apply one or two coats of Stain'n Varnish (you can choose between Dark Oak, Special Walnut or Black Oak), and apply a coat of polyurethane. I do not know what a professional would charge - but I assume they could do the entire job in 2 days if you are only talking about the steps and not any railings.
Josee 10/04/2003 11:16:42	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: HI WE too are refinishing our oak staircase. WE plan to use the stain and varnish however I would like to have gloss finish on the bannister(using a black oak or black satin colour) Can I achieve this using only this product or do I need a separate coat of gloss polyurethane to achieve this look. thanks
Mark 10/04/2003 12:33:13	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: For a high gloss finish, you will need to apply an additional coat of polyurethane on top of the Stain'n Varnish. You will only get a semi-gloss using the black oak.
Sue 10/27/2003 12:18:10	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Hi, We just moved into our new home and the builder has not finished our oak staircase. They have only put one coat of something on it (it's a natural oak colour) and the stairs are not seal yet. Can I stain it another colour without removing the first coat. If so, what can I do?
Mark 10/27/2003 12:22:57	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Sue, It is very important to find out exactly what was used - a coat of something can be many things and I would not want to advise you use something that is incompatible with what is already on there.
spencer 10/28/2003 00:33:20	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: In the process of refinishing our oak stairs, no railings, we have wrought iron, looks like I could get away with sanding and then using a wood stain?, we have some golden oak stain, is this appropriate to do..... thanks, from the rookie home owner.
Mark 10/28/2003 06:05:01	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Wood stains must be applied onto bare, well sanded wood. If any dirt, wax or finish remain on the surface the stain will not penetrate into the wood and the colour will be blotchy. Always test the stain on an inconspicuous area first before doing the entire staircase. Good Luck!
Roland 10/28/2003 11:29:29	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have another variation on this theme. I'm stripping an oak newel post of 2-3 coats of paint. Underneath the paint is an earlier finish, which I'd like to leave intact. It appears to be some kind of varnish, and I'd guess it's at least 40 years old. Can I use a stripper for this job, or will it also strip the finish I'm trying to keep intact? Thanks for your help.
Mark 10/28/2003 11:33:56	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: This is a similar question as that posed by Sandra in "Slate Fireplace". The answer given to her was.... "This sounds like something that a true expert in restoration should handle. Brent Lily of Old Gold Studios, 309 Mill Street, Occoquan, VA 22125 is one such expert. He is a conservator and has used both Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper and Circa 1850 Soft Strip in his work." In particular, he has used Circa 1850 Soft Strip to selectively remove the top layers of paint.
Roland 10/30/2003 15:18:29	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Thanks for your answer. I think the finish must be some kind of oil and varnish combination. There is a very thin surface coating, most of which comes off with the paint. The traces that remain look like dried mucelage (that wonderful glue we used in grade school). These come off very easily, leaving behind what looks like an oiled surface. I'm happy with how this looks, and would be inclined just to leave it, but I'm worried about whether leaving it would be good for the wood. Should I put a new finish on it? If so, do you offer something that won't change the colour? I also plan to strip the stairs themselves to bare wood and re-finish them (they look like old pine from what I can see through the paint, more than a foot wide and knot-free). I'd like to finish them without polyurethane. Is there something that will leave them with a soft, natural look and colour? Thanks again for your help.
Mark 10/30/2003 15:27:29	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: It is always best to put a finish on wood to protect it from dirt and to keep it from drying out. Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane is a clear, non-yellow finish that is extremely durable. I would recommend the same for your stairs (in satin). If you don't put a good quality polyurethane finish on those stairs they will get worn away and dirty very quickly. Oil finishes are very nice but not really recommended for stairs.
Roland 10/30/2003 15:44:40	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Thank you. I'm prepared to live with polyurethane on the stairs (I thought you'd say that), but I'd really rather avoid it on the newel. Is there something else that will protect it and keep it from drying out, without putting a hard coating on the wood? I really don't want to give up the satiny feel of the wood itself.
Mark 10/31/2003 08:45:55	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: If you really want to avoid the polyu - I guess you should be looking at the Antique Oil finish. It is a wipe on oil-varnish combination that leaves a nice feel to the wood while providing some protection.
spencer 11/01/2003 18:05:15	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: At the top of the Oak staircase I have 1/2 inch oak hardwood strips, I tore the carpet out and found all of the floor in wonderful condition except at the top of the staircase, I stole some strips out of the closets and re-did this area, used wood filler and sanded very well. Now when I use the wood stain onto the area the you can really see the wood filler..It shows through much darker than the hardwood strips..anything else I can do to try to minimize this. Thanks, the rookie home owner.
Mark 11/01/2003 19:21:29	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You have encountered a very common problem when it comes to wood filler - stain does not colour the same as the surrounding wood. Since the filler is darker than the wood you will want to carefully etch out a shallow hollow into the filler. You can then fill the shallow hollow with wood filler that more closely matches the stained wood. Make sure that the wood filler is a type that can be varnished. Alternatively, after etching out the filler go ahead and put on the polyurethane. After the polyurethane has cured you can fill the shallow with a wax-based wood pencil that matches the stained wood.
Julie 1/12/2004 12:06:07	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have Oak rails & spindles on my staircase. The stairs are the standard kind that are put into California track homes. They look like they have a coat of some kind of varnish. I believe the person sprayed it on. I would like to either stain or paint it so that the rails are a darker brown and the spindles are white. I'm not sure what the difference would be in how it looks with Stain versus paint? What are the steps I would need to take to do this? What product could I use to strip the varnish? Do I need to prime it to hide some of the Oak grain? What kind of primer & paint would you recommend to use to paint the the rails and spindles?
Mark 1/12/2004 12:19:11	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Stain will show the grain of the wood while paint will obscure it. In order to stain, you will need to completlely strip off the finish and sand. Any of the Circa 1850 Strippers would do the job. Prior to painting you should apply a good quality stain blocking, pigmented primer (such as Prime-it Plus). Oil based paints are easier to clean and last longer that do latex paints. However, they have more odour and require thinner for clean up.
John 1/14/2004 21:45:39	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I am trying to refinish wood oak treads on a staircase. I used a belt sander with the grain but still got a whole bunch of scratches across the grain. I have been sanding forever trying to work the blemishes out of the wood. I tried to use a grain filler but I guess the product was on the shelf for years and went on really thick (even after thinning 25% with paint thinner). I am having to use the thinner and a sturdy scraper to remove the grain filler (it was on the treads really thick!)and now the stain is going on blochy and I still have some of the scratches..I know! I know! I have a real mess on my hands but am determined to finish it myself. Do I need to sand the wood down until the wood is perfectly smooth? should I coat the wood with something before staining again? Should I worry about blochy stain again? Help!
Mark 1/15/2004 07:41:53	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You have a classic problem - trying to eliminate scratches from sanding. I won't get into the fact that you made matters worse by first trying to use a grain filler to get rid of scratches and then by trying to stain a surface that is ill prepared. The thing that you have to remember is that you cannot expect to get out deep scratches with fine sandpaper. Let's assume that you used 80 or 120 grit sandpaper with your belt sander. You should hand sand with the same grit (80-120) until the wood is perfectly uniform. In order to test this, apply a bit of paint thinner to the wood and see of there are any deep scratches left behind. If the wood is uniform, you are ready to go on to the next step. Progress from coarser to finer sandpaper (80 - 120 - 150 - 180 - 220) using the same technique of sanding smooth and testing with paint thinner. Once you have a smooth surface at 220 grit you can go ahead and stain the wood. There is really no need for a wood conditioner (eliminates blothy stain colours) as you will now have a very smooth, evenly sanded hardwood surface.
Ed 1/26/2004 15:03:25	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I'm also going to refinish my oak staircase. It currently has a light pinkish whitewash finish with a semi-gloss finish. Would the stain n'varnish work on my stairs and what is involved if I did use it? I was thinking of sanding the finish and stain down to bare wood but it sounds like a lot of work not to mention a huge mess. I also noticed you have a biodegradable paint stripper. Does it work as well as the Furniture stripper? Thanks
Mark 1/26/2004 17:36:32	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Circa 1850 Soft Strip is as effective at removing finish as Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper - it just takes longer to activate (5-30 minutes per coat versus just a few minutes for Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper). If you decide to use Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish, you would need to sand the existing finish until dull. Since Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish is transparent, you may still see the underlying pink colour after a coat or two.
Ed 1/28/2004 10:45:54	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: If I used a belt sander starting with a finer grit paper after using Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper on the treads, would I still risk the possibility of scratching the wood? Should I be doing the sanding by hand? My local paint supply dealer recommended that I do not use the Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper during the cold winter months because of the odour. How safe is the product? Can I use it during February? Thanks
Mark 1/28/2004 15:07:54	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Belt sanders are very aggressive. Orbital sanders or hand sanders are best if you only want to remove the thin layer. The odour will not bother you. However, all paint removers require adequate ventilation. If you cannot provide that I would not do the job at this time.
Ed 1/28/2004 16:01:11	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: What about a hand held power sander like the Black and Decker Mouse. Would that work instead of a belt sander which your right is too aggressive for the treads?
Mark 1/28/2004 18:25:46	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The mouse sander would be fine.
Paul 2/05/2004 16:40:03	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark I have another variation: I have a red oak staircase that has never been treated. It is about 3-4 years old and doesnt have look very dirty. There was a water leak (under the staircase) and there are few water stains. I started hand/orbital sanding them. I have also started sanding the treads to freshen them up. Any special considerations? Should I wash/strip the wood? Or is the sanding and cleaning with mineral spirits enough prep? Thanks
Mark 2/05/2004 16:47:47	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: If you sand, there is no need to clean with mineral spirits. Why were the treads never treated? It does seem a bit odd..... I suggest a couple coats of Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane to prevent any future damage.
Paul 2/05/2004 17:11:09	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The staircase was installed as part of a whole house renovation. I am embarassed to admit it finishing kind of fell by the wayside due to all the other projects. During renovation they were covered with rosin paper or cardboard. Thanks for your quick response.
Jim 2/13/2004 16:31:47	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have a new staircase I put in my house. It is made of maple wood and is unfinished. I wanted to stain/paint it myself, but have not a clue. Should I find a professional? Does anyone know anybody in Southern California?
Julie 2/27/2004 15:40:12	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I'm not refinishing a staircase. I would however, like to refinish an oak china cabinet. I'd love to turn this Oak cabinet into more of a pine finish look. I want the Tuscan look in my kitchen and I don't believe Oak looks right. Please let me know the easiest way to turn Oak into a Pine look. It's the typical cabinet with the three glass doors, a glass shelf and three oak doors on the bottom. Thank you so much, I want to surprise my husband with this makeover when he's gone on a business trip.
Mark 2/28/2004 13:34:45	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Oak has a very defined grain, while the grain on pine is much more subtle. The best way to turn oak into pine is to hide the grain. If the oak is finished and the grain is very defined, strip or sand off the existing finish. Then, apply a seal coat of varnish to the oak. Finally, apply a heavy coat or two of Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish (Puritan Pine would probably be the best colour). Since the wood is already sealed, the Stain'n Varnish will not accumulate in the grain and the pine look should be achieved.
julie 3/05/2004 11:56:20	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, Thank you for the information. I was wondering about the grain. You've been very helpful. I'll let you know if I get this accomplished or chicken out. Julie
Matt 3/10/2004 16:43:39	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have a new house with oak stairs featuring a "traditional" finish. I would like to refinish them with a very dark finish ie black oak. Please outline the steps. Also I would like to paint the rise in the stairs white to match our trim. Please suggest a route of action for that too. Many thanks Matt
Mark 3/10/2004 16:53:36	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: What is a "traditional finish"?
matt 3/10/2004 17:02:04	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: More or less clear, overall a yellowish finish Sorrty I can not be more specific
Mark 3/10/2004 17:06:09	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: If this finish is thoroughly cleaned and sanded you should be able to apply Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish directly over the existing finish. Since the wood is sealed, it may take a few coats to achieve the black oak look. Alternatively, you could sand or strip off the entire finish, restain and apply a new topcoat. The same procedure would also work for painting the trim - clean, sand and paint.
angelo 3/24/2004 22:41:49	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I stained the newels and ralings of my stairs and after the first coat decided that the colour is alittle dark and decided to go to a lighter colour. What is the best way of getting back to bare wood since the newel post are not all flat, there are lots of round parts and grooves.
Mark 3/25/2004 06:50:35	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: ALWAYS TEST YOUR STAIN BEFORE APPLYING IT TO THE ENTIRE JOB! Once the stain is dry it is quite difficult to remove. To remove some of the stain you can vigourously rub the surface with an abrasive - like steel wool or a synthetic pad. If you use a lubricant, such as mineral oil or mineral spirits, it will be less dusty. To remove more of the stain you will either have to sand or use a wood bleach. Both of these are very messy and would involve a lot of work on round parts.
Beth 3/31/2004 17:05:41	Installing Oak staircase Message: We are installing a new oak staircase with railing. Should we stain and varnish the treads/railing/spindles before we install them or after it is all put together? Thanks!
Mark 3/31/2004 17:52:42	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: It is certainly easier to get all of the finishing work done prior to installation, but this is not really possible. You will need to figure out what pieces will need to be sanded after installation. The spindles can easily be sanded, stained and finished prior to installation. The treads and railing will probably have to be sanded after installation in order to smooth out the joints. Therefore, these should be stained and finished after installation.
Scot Turner 4/12/2004 11:46:12	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I am having the hardwood floors in my foyer refinished from a yellowish color to more of an autumn color (redish/brown tint) to match the hardwood floors I have in my dining room. The cost to have the matching oak staircase refinished if very high due to the labor involved. The staircase also has the yellowish color with a high gloss sprayed on varnish or poly coating. Would it be possible to use Stain n Varnish to alter the color of the staircase from the yellow tint to an autumn tint? If so, what would be the appropriate steps to make it happen?
Mark 4/12/2004 12:29:54	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The advantage of using a product like Stain'n Varnish is that it allows you to alter the woods colour without stripping or sanding off the finish. You would need to sand the staircase to remove the gloss of the varnish using 120 or 150 grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and apply Stain'n Varnish with a rag or cloth. After you have achieve the desired colour, apply a fresh coat of polyurethane.
Ron 4/23/2004 20:40:43	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Golden/Yellowing Oak staircases must have been a building industry standard.. Have ordered Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish Dark Oak. Understand preparation. Question is: How many coats can be applied? Does more coats equal darker color? Maybe a response/outline of the whole process for us "Max. results, Min effort" crowd. The painters/refinishers I have asked for quotes give me every option from "tear it out" to "paint it". I believe your product will give me the desired middle ground..I just want to avoid the trial and error if you already have some knowledge base to tap.
Mark 4/24/2004 09:21:37	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish is a varnish with colour - therefore you can apply any number of coats and each coat will yield a darker more opaque colour. Since your wood is already sealed, you will not get the bold colour change in one coat that you would get with bare wood (none of the stain is getting into the wood). After cleaning, give a good sanding with 120-150 grit sandpaper. The rougher the sandpaper, the more colour you will get from the first coat. OPTION #1 - building up the colour slowly. Using an old t-shirt or pair of nylon stockings, apply a uniform coat over the entire step. Wipe down in the direction of the grain to leave a smooth coat (do not worry too much as you will sand between coats and more coats will be added). OPTION #2 - building up the colour quickly Using a foam brush, apply a layer of Stain'n Varnish to a piece of cardboard. Smooth out the varnish until it is uniform and liquid. Using the foam brush, apply the varnish to the wood in the direction of the grain. You are applying a thicker layer here, so the colour will build faster and appear more opaque. After allowing the varnish to dry for 8 hours in the California warmth (it is 40 right now in NH), buff lightly with 000 steel wool, remove any dust and apply additional coats. My personal preference is to go with option 1 as it gives more control and tends to look more natural. It obiously takes more time and effort.
mick 4/28/2004 14:20:58	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have just taken up a carpet from stairs (it ran up the middle with wood either side). The wood underneath looks faded and there are some water spots. However, wood on either side and bannister is fine. There are some nail holes. Can I fill nail holes with wood putty or filler and then use something like Howard Restor-a-Finish? Or will this cause too much of a difference in colour? Plus, will the putty or filler show a different colour?
Mark 4/28/2004 14:44:54	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Howard Restor-a-finish is not durable enough for stairs. You will have to apply a couple of coats of polyurethane on top of it. You will have to decide exactly how "nice" you want the stairs to look. The best look would be achieved by stripping off the existing finish and sanding the entire step. You can then decide if you want to stain the wood. Whether you stain or not, the top coat should be a good quality polyurethane. After applying the top coat you can fill the nail holes with a putty or crayon that matches the colour of the step. Alternatively, you can use a coloured wood filler after staining and prior to applying the top coat.
Mick 4/29/2004 12:42:03	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Hey Mark, thanks a lot that was very helpful. Have decided not to use restor-a-Finish and go with the polyurethane. Just one more question. There are some water stains on wood. Will sanding (or super fine steel wool) work before I put on varnish? Thanks once again, this is very useful.
Mark 4/29/2004 12:45:23	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: If the water stains are white, they are in the finish. Sanding will remove them. If the water stains are black, they are in the wood. You will need to remove the finish and bleach out the stains (or sand off quite a bit of wood). The best bleach for this application is oxalic acid.
mick 4/29/2004 14:45:16	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, Seems to have been a hiccup in the last message (your reply wasn't posted). I was asking how to get rid of the water stains on oak steps — sandpaper, super fine steel wool, and then varnish?
mick 4/29/2004 14:47:54	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Hiccups cured. Thanks
Karen 5/07/2004 14:44:08	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Follow up question to an earlier question: I have stripped the poly from my oak treads, but my treads are way too dark for the finish that I desire. What is the sanding method (e.g., grit progression, tools needed) to sand just enough of the stain off so that I can get to a lighter oak tone? And can I do it with a B&D mouse sander? Thanks in advance
Mark 5/07/2004 15:13:28	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Unfortunately, it is difficult to ascertain the amount of sanding that will be required to remove the stain until you start. However, you should probably begin with 120 grit sandpaper. If you find that it is taking far too long you can switch to 80 grit for more aggresive sanding. Alternatively, you may decide that 150 grit is all that is really needed to start. After sanding with the coarser grit to remove the stain, move progressively to finer grits to remove the sanding marks. You can probably end with 150 or 180 grit. A good test is to apply some mineral spirits to the tread. Any scratches that are hidden from view will become apparent when wet. You can then resand as desired. You will want to use an electric sander for most of the work. I do not know if the mouse sander is adequate as I have never had the opportunity to use it.
Roger 5/11/2004 07:32:44	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: My advice for all is, if you dont have the patience then it is not worth doing the job. You must have a love for wood work, refinishing is an art. Just take your time and you will see that everything will come in order. What I learned is if there are products out there that help you do the job then use them. Also alot of people I see use sandpaper by hand on flat surfaces. Wrong move - use a small piece of flat wood and surround the sandpaper around it and you will see you will get an even sand with a little bit more leverage. Thanks all
Matthew Ahern 5/11/2004 13:48:07	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I’ve never stained wood before, and we have Oak stairs coming in a few days. Thx to you we're learning. Will practice sample stains and poly on Oak samples before real deal. Questions... - only balusters will be painted, all else will stain/poly. Should I do balusters after coats of poly dry (so accid. drips of paint wipe off easy)? - could I cover stairs for a few days to move furniture first, or should I stain right after installed and not let anyone walk on pre-finished stairs? - wife wants a runner up middle of stairs (nobel cause, nervous of others slipping). Does it pay to stain/poly where it will cover now, knowing color change may occur if we ever remove runner? I'm thinking waste of work, but don't really know. Would hate to ruin wood if I don't seal, etc.. all/any thoughts are much abliged. matthew and kim ahern.
Mark 5/11/2004 14:35:13	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Painting is usually done from the top down - cover unpainted or previously painted areas with drop cloths. Best to cover stairs with cloth or only walk on them with socks from the time the final sanding is done until the final coat has cured. Finish the entire step - even the part that will eventually be covered. The wood will be a different colour regardless of the finish (the sun will take care of that).
Matthew Ahern 5/19/2004 15:37:14	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I was just told by a painter that it is always best to stain new wood stairs before they are actually installed (stain and poly each piece). However, the stair mill told me that the proper process is to always install first, so that the glues and install material stick better together (otherwise you can cause structural issues). Which one is right in your opinion?
Mark 5/19/2004 15:51:06	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Install first, finish last. You may want to stain first, as long as you sand the edges that are to glued to remove any of the binding medium.
Matthew Ahern 5/19/2004 16:08:55	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark - I'm just about to begin! Would you recommend using a foam brush or t-shirt to apply stain on steps, railing, and stringer? And, what would you recommend to use for stain and poly on the posts (they swirl around a bit so it will be difficult with a brush). Can I use a t-shirt or rag for that and get it into the grooves with my hands?
Mark 5/19/2004 16:42:10	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I hope that you have given the pieces a thorough sanding. You want to ensure that all planer marks and scratches are removed. Also you may want to test using a wood conditioner on the posts - the end grain will give you a much deeper colour than what you will get on other parts. You can use whatever you like to apply the stain, but a foam brush would go faster. Use a rag to wipe off any excess as per the can directions. I would also use a foam or bristle brush for the poly - cloth application is not recommended. You should apply it first to the deepest grooves, then use the brush to go over the other parts. It is best to apply thin coats to avoid drips.
Roger 5/21/2004 06:53:33	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: My advice is when final sanding has been done, disemble the staircase (the spindles) and first stain the staircase and seperately stain the spindles, it will make things alot easier. Once completely stained with the desired colour depending on 1 or more coats install the spindles and apply the varnish so it soaks through the grroves of the spindles.I recently did my staircases and trust me its alot easier to disemble it first rather than trying to sqeeze through the spindles to apply stain.
Roger 6/13/2004 19:37:06	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I find alot of people have trouble using the Circa 1850 stain & varnish, let me just say it's alot easier than putting on two coats and a varnish. The key to using it is that you must work fast, and you will find that its not that hard at all. But if you are staining the spindles and the base of the stairs take the spindles off so you can get a an even flow of the stain. Hope this helps.
Lauren 7/04/2004 18:15:26	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Hi, Myself, my hubby and another tenant/friend in our apartment building have spent hours and hours over the past 2 months stripping off 7 layers of paint and sanding the front entrance, stairs, floor, spindles, bannisters, landing, and upstairs floor. Yes, it's a massive job for us, just tenants, to have undertaken out of the goodness of our foolish hearts (since it's probably a 5 grand or more job), but we wanted to because the building was in dire need of a good "cleanup," there was also beautiful 800 year old yellow pine underneath all the crap, and hey, it's where we live, so we wanted it nice. Now, after all the hours and sweat producing hard work, we're down to the wire, with all surfaces almost completely stripped and sanded, but have found a problem on the stair treads. No matter how far down we sand, the wear marks dead center in the treads will not come up. We are exhausted and more than ready to have this "free service provided by over zealous tenants" come to a finish. How can we remove these stubborn wear marks? HELP!!!
Mark 7/05/2004 06:57:53	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I am not sure what you mean by "wear marks". Is this a discolouration in the wood?
Geeta 7/05/2004 17:34:27	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Hi, I have a curved oak staircase that is carpetted and the spindles were painted a dark dusty rose color. The bannister is a honey oak color right now. We would like to change the bannister to a dark chocolate color and change the color of the spindles to white. Please help! It's very difficult to disemble the staircase. How can we go about to make the job a bit easier.
Mark 7/06/2004 06:51:27	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Refinishing a staircase is labour intensive, but the results are usually worth the effort. If the banister is stained (as opposed to painted) and you want to keep that look, you can use Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish over the existing finish. The spindles need to be sanded and should be primed with a white pigmented primer (such as Prime-it Plus). This will ensure proper adhesion, block out the rose colour and save you on the number of top coats.
Jooli 7/18/2004 10:17:13	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I am in the same situation. I desire to refinish my stained banister by painting it, but my stairs are carpeted. Any advice on doing this without having to tear up the carpet or removing the banister?
Julie 7/22/2004 15:23:28	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Our Oak floors and stairs have been covered by carpet for years. When the carpeting was taken up there were staples left some of the staples have broken off, I did manage to remove some of them but not all. Is there some secret to getting out these pieces of staples or, am I stuck for life?
Ian 7/24/2004 13:19:05	Removing Stain Message: Does Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper help remove stain? The package indicates it will remove finish but not does not mention stain. What is the best way to remove stain? I am refinishing oak cabinets that have stain with poly finish. Thanks!
Ian 7/24/2004 13:24:01	RE: removing stain Message: I see on some other posts that the stripper will not help stain. I guess I've answered my own question.
Mark 7/25/2004 09:18:49	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper will only remove the pigment portion of the stain (that is, the small particles that sit on the surface). Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper does not affect the colour of the wood, and therefore will not remove any stain in the wood, nor will it affect the natural patina of the wood.
Jim 7/25/2004 16:42:06	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have a whitewashed(pinkish color) bannister and posts with white spindles. I'm planning on leaving the spindles white but i'd like to refinish the bannister to a light/naural oak color. Two questions - 1) what is the best way to remove pink whitewash. 2) Are there any special tricks to covering/protectecting the spindles during the process of refinishing the bannister?
Mark 7/26/2004 06:53:43	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You can use any one of the Circa 1850 paint strippers (Furniture Stripper, Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover, or Soft Strip) to remove the whitewash. Since the Heavy Body is a gel it gives more control over where it stays and may be the best suited for your purpose. Cover any areas that you do not want to strip with plastic wrap or aluminum foil.
Tonya 8/03/2004 01:59:19	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We had the oak floors redone above and below the staircase and need to redo the staircase. It appears that we need to get rid of the existing varnish layer and the dark stain. Do we start with some kind of stripper and then sand? We also will be taking out the existing wrought iron railing and replacing with oak. Once we get the the stairs restained, do we wait to apply the poly until after the posts, etc are installed. Thanks.
Mark 8/03/2004 06:34:37	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Use a stripper to remove the varnish. Sand to remove the stain. You can apply the polyurethane before or after the new posts are installed. My suggestion is to apply 2 coats before and one after.
sherrie 8/03/2004 23:39:33	RE: refinishing wood floor Message: I am refinishing a wood floor. I am at the urethane stage. Because of the set up of the room and door and furniture size... it was impossible to take everything out of the room and do the entire floor at one time. Thus I did a smaller section and now am doing the larger section. My problem is the line in the floor where the two areas meet. I tried to do the urethane along the line of the boards but did get some overlap that is going to show. Is there any way to prevent or repair this?
Rocco 8/12/2004 16:16:47	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have oak stairs finished in natural colour. I would like to darken the natural look to a medium-to-dark brown colour (the steps, railings, banister and also the risers which are not wood but that thin sheet of material that looks like wood - I forget the name). If I understand this correctly, I would use Circa 1850 stain & varnish on everything, then give a very light sand, and then use Circa 1850 stain & varnish until I achive the colour I like. Does this sound right?
Rocco 8/12/2004 16:22:34	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I forgot to mention...on the light sanding part, the intent here is not to remove the old stain but just to smooth the surfaces?
Mark 8/13/2004 06:50:38	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The surface must be clean and not glossy to start. To clean, you can use a TSP wash or mineral spirits. Buff the surface with sandpaper to remove any gloss and to give a nice smooth surface. Apply a coat of Stain'n Varnish. Wait a minimum of 8 hours (I usually wait until the next day) and buff the surface with steel wool to remove any dust specks or unevenness. Repeat with additional coats until the colour is achieved. Depending on how dark you intend to go, you may want to use a foam brush to build colour quicker.
Rocco 8/13/2004 16:04:27	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, what about starting off with the Circa Stripper to remove the Varnish? And then perhaps a light sanding and/or steel wool before applying the Stain'n Varnish?
Mark 8/13/2004 16:15:02	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: If you strip off the existing finish and lightly sand you will be able to achieve your colour in just one or two coats.
Diane 8/16/2004 01:00:35	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We're in same boat as so many others. We have a golden oak banister that we want to match our stairs that have just been stained a dark "ebony" color. From my reading of the above messages, I'm guessing that you'll recommend the stain-n-varnish route. (I.e., sand to get the shine off, use product, wait 8 hrs., sand, use product again to get desired color). My question is, how dark will it get? We want it to look almost black. Is it possible to get that dark? Also, how much do we have to initially sand? It's fairly easy to get the shine off, but the "golden" color is just not coming off. Help!
Mark 8/16/2004 08:45:23	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: In order to get that dark a black colour you will need to ensure that the first coat penetrates into the wood, not just onto the existing finish. Therefore, you will need to either sand or use a stripper to remove the exising varnish. Don't worry about getting off the golden colour if it is in the wood, as it will be covered.
zachary watkins 8/28/2004 09:53:31	RE.PINE FLOORS Message: .HOW TO REFINISH.OLD PINE FLOORS
Emily Loh 9/17/2004 08:44:44	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have moving into a new home & asked the builder to left the staircase unfinished. As I want to paint the pickets & risers white & the trends & handrails drak mahoganny. My question is for the pickets & risers,should I use white wood stain or just a normal indoor white paint. If just normal indoor white paint, should I use Gross or semi-gross
lindsi 9/17/2004 23:23:51	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We have a similar issue to the others but would love an answer!! We just bought a house built in the '80's and it has a pastel grey finish on the hardwood floors and the entire "open concept" staircase. Everybody says it is "impossible" to refinish the staircase in the coffee brown duraseal by minwax (the stain we really like for our floors), or it would cost us a ton of money. We are planning to put a wide runner on the stairs, so will only need to stain the sides of the treads (the outside and spindles we will paint white) but i would like to know if we can use the Circa 1850 stain 'n varnish for the outside of the treads (the top and the bottom which you can see from the basement) and the banister?? What colour would match best, and would it look completely different than the floors which we will do in the coffee?? Thanks for the help, this is my first project and I am excited about the challenge.
Mary-Louise Barbieri 9/24/2004 11:37:03	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: HELP! my husband and I bought a new house not long ago - oak staircase, treads and spindals, finished in dark coffee brown stain. We think the builder may have not put enough coats of finish over the stain as our dog has left horrible scratch marks on the treads - the scratches go through the stain to the natural wood colour - we didn't have this issue in previous house - the dog only weighs 30lbs and I do cut her nails - questions are 1) what is best way to get these scratch marks off of the treads 2) then how many coats of finish required to make the treads durable?
Mark 9/24/2004 12:08:45	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: It sounds as though you may have a varnish stain and not a stain with a finish. If you scratch off the finish (use a sharp blade on an inconspicuous spot) does the colour come off with it?
Mary-Louise Barbieri 9/24/2004 12:12:36	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: my husband just checked and he said it does come off with it - the builder said they used a satin finish but we think there may be only one coat therefore not durable. The finish looks very matte.
Judy Shoush 10/15/2004 10:49:39	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Our house was built in 1890, the staircase spindles are painted (with several coats) with white paint, the railing is stained a dark brown, I have started using 3M safest strip, is this okay, or should I change to the 1850 stipper you keep referring to?
Mark 10/15/2004 11:23:07	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: 3M Safest Stripper will probably do the job - but it is definately the slowest remover sold. It is also fairly expensive, but if you are happy with the results stick with it.
Help needed 10/16/2004 20:59:37	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We currently have spruce unfinished stairs that have been scratched by our 80lb dog. We have tried sanding the scratches out but they are quite deep. If we put a stain on we are afraid that it will sink into these scratches and be darker then the stairs. Any help with this would be appreciated.
Mark 10/17/2004 16:41:56	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: DO NOT apply a stain or you will highlight the scratches. You will probably want to apply a seal coat (such as Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish) and then use Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish to modify the colour. Because the wood has been sealed, the stain will not darken the scratches. Test this theory on an inconspicuous spot prior to applying it to the entire staircase.
Dor 10/25/2004 13:01:55	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have an unfinished oak staircase. I want to stain the handrails cherry and paint the spindles white. What do I do first? And how do I protect each part from the wrong finish getting on it where the spindles and handrails meet? If I choose not to prime the spindles first what will I encounter regarding the grain showing through?
Dor 10/25/2004 13:02:52	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have an unfinished oak staircase. I want to stain the handrails cherry and paint the spindles white. What do I do first? And how do I protect each part from the wrong finish getting on it where the spindles and handrails meet? If I choose not to prime the spindles first what will I encounter regarding the grain showing through?
Mark 10/25/2004 13:37:44	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I would do the staining first as it does not matter if you get stain on the spindles. You should then apply the clear finish coat onto the handrails (again, it does not matter if it gets onto the spindles). You can either tape off the handrails while painting or just wipe off any paint from the handrails (they are already stained and finished). Why would you not prime the wood first? The primer will not keep the grain from showing through, but it will provide a good surface for the paint and it will prevent any colour from bleeding through.
linda cibellis 10/26/2004 12:23:27	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I am trying to refinish my staircase also. I have sanded off the old finish but I must have scratched a few areas when I removed the carpet. Please advise how I can get these scratches out, what sandpaper etc. I used a small orbit sander. The scratches are on the end of the step and quite noticeable. They show thru varnish and the wood fill also shows thru the varnish. Please give me some advise for these two issues. Thank you.
Mark 10/26/2004 14:18:39	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: What grit of sandpaper did you use with your orbital sander?
linda cibellis 10/26/2004 15:59:48	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I used 60 and 80 grit sandpaper.
Mark 10/26/2004 16:04:15	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You have sanded with coarse sandpaper. You now need to sand with 120, 150 and finally 180 if you are going to put on a clear varnish.
linda cibellis 10/26/2004 16:14:23	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, one other question if I want to keep the natural oak by just using varnish, can you suggest what color wood fill and what is the best wood fill to use? Thank you.
Mark 10/26/2004 17:08:13	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You will have to find a colour that matches the wood of the stairs. Some wood filler can be varnished and should by applied prior to varnishing. Some wood filler (as well as wax crayons) cannot be varnished and must be applied after varnishing.
Bernie 10/29/2004 09:59:35	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, we purchased a house with cherry hardwood floors but honey oak staircase (not sure why the previous owners didn't notice how odd this looks...). I understand I could go the sanding then Stain n Varnish route but have concerns about how close I can get the colors to match the floor (anything is better). Is this method suitable when going to darker stains? Thanks,
Mark 10/29/2004 10:49:31	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The other option is to completely remove the finish on the staircase (strip or sand) and then restain the stairs. You are still at the mercy of the applicator to match the colour. Not sure what you mean by "Is this method suitable when going to darker stains?"
Madhu Naik 10/29/2004 11:16:59	RE: New Oak railings and Posts Message: I have replaced old Iorn railings with unfinished(new) Oak wood railing (spindles and post etc.) in the living room, I want to stain them but I have very little experience to do the wood staining. please guide me with proper directions what I have to do to get best results. I thank you very much. Madhu Naik
Bernie 10/29/2004 11:46:12	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, suitable was a bad choice of words. I was really asking if the Stain n Varnish product was the best method when going from a very light to very dark stain (and it's just bannisters and spindles, the steps are carpet). You mentioned the second option of stripping/sanding then staining. Can you explain what the difference would be?
Mark 10/29/2004 14:44:33	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You have 2 choices. You can completely remove the existing finish, either by sanding or stripping. After removing the finish you must sand the wood to open the pores and then stain. After staining you will have to reapply a finish. The other option is to clean and lightly sand the existing finish, and apply a coat or two of Stain'n Varnish directly over the existing finish.
Roy 11/08/2004 01:41:58	RE: Refinishing old furniture Message: I have just varnish my furniture which is not all flat, there is line and groove. The problem is there is these whitetish mark on the groove of the furniture after varnishing. What cause these mark and how to make it go away?
Mark 11/08/2004 08:05:38	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: What product was used to varnish the furniture? Was this new wood or was there an existing finish? If so, what was the previous finish?
patti 11/10/2004 16:03:46	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Help! My painters just painted a part of my staircase with High Gloss black paint. It looks way too shiney! How can we tone it down and get a distressed look. It's the part that the spindles go into.
patti 11/10/2004 16:05:39	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The High Gloss black paint is oil based enamel.
Mark 11/11/2004 07:37:09	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Buff the surface with steel wool to decrease the gloss.
james 11/16/2004 09:37:19	RE: finishing a staircase Message: I need help! I'd like to know what to do to finish new stairs (cherry wood) they are solid wood but made up of glued pieces. No finish what so ever has been applied and I want to stain (or other) them dark mahogany. I dont want the staining to show off the multiple pieces used to make up the stair? Basically can you tell me what would I do A-Z after the carpenter puts them in? Thank you very much
Mark 11/16/2004 11:16:38	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: The only way to avoid showing the individual pieces is to use an opaque stain - otherwise the wood will show through.
james 11/18/2004 19:25:31	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Thank you, should I seal the cherry wood first? Can I use a stain and urethane inclusive product? I really appreciate the help I'm lost with this task!
Mark 11/18/2004 19:28:36	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: There is no purpose in sealing the wood prior to applying the opaque stain. You can use a stain and varnish combination, but these tend to be transparent.
Kay 11/21/2004 21:35:07	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I need help restaining my oak stair rail. The current stain is a golden honey oak. We want to change it to a darker stain (minwax - English Chestnut) We have hired someone to replace the existing carpet on the treads to hardwood. He has completely taken down the rail and spindles and will be putting them back on after the treads and nosings are replaced. We have applied a stripper to the posts and railing and we've sanded some and used steel wool some, but nothing really seems to be happening. The gloss is gone, but there is still color in the grain. Does this matter? Do we have to get all the dark out of the grain? Also the balls on the top of the posts turned blackish overnight. What is that all about? Please help! I've never stained anything before.
Renee 11/21/2004 21:46:26	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We have pickled/white washed stair railings which we want to refinish in a darker stain. On a sample/test section, I sanded off the old finish and stained with a cherry finish but it looked horribly blotchy. So I resanded to remove the new stain. Now I have the section that has been resanded to natural oak (although not all the stain has been removed) and the rest which is the original pickled/white washed finish. How do I get uniformity? Can I use Stain N Varnish on all of it?
Kay 11/21/2004 22:09:15	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: By the way, the English Chestnut is the color of our hardwood floors that we're trying to match. Does Circa 1850 have that color?
Renee 11/21/2004 22:41:00	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I've read the questions posted & have one more question. Why would you want to strip and restain (so messy) as opposed to Stain N Varnish? Is there a difference in the end result?
Mark 11/22/2004 08:18:09	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Staining and then varnishing bare wood will give you the same look as using Stain'n Varnish, except that Stain'n Varnish will not give you the blotchiness associated with liquid stains. If you use Stain'n Varnish over an existing colour, the original colour will still be there and may alter the end result. Just as when you stain a white wood versus a darker wood (or even a soft wood versus a hard wood) you will not get an exact match.
kay 11/22/2004 09:49:16	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Mark, I'm not familiar with what you guys are calling Stain'n Varnish. How is that different from just using a stain to the rail.
Mark 11/22/2004 10:11:29	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Stain'n Varnish is both a stain and a varnish in one. See www.swingpaints.com/770_799.htm
Andrew 11/25/2004 21:15:51	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I have and ca. 1896 red oak staircase (treads, risers, skirts, newel post, balusters and handrail all unpainted). It is encrusted with what looks like 100y of grime, etc. (esp. in the details), much of which seems to have been varnished over in the last 40 years or so. Bottom line: it's very dark/dingy. I'm assuming I should strip, clean and finish with a lacquer varnish (I'd lie a natural finish). Any suggestions?
Mark 11/26/2004 08:00:09	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: What do you mean by a lacquer varnish? What type of a "natural" finish are you looking for?
Andrew 11/26/2004 10:37:48	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I guess I mean that I don't want to stain the wood. I just want to restore it to it's natural color and then finish it so that it has a kind of semi-gloss appearance. But I'm open to any advice.
Mark 11/26/2004 12:31:00	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: You will want to put on a good quality polyurethane finish onto the stairs.
Christy 12/10/2004 16:58:45	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We're installing new treads and risers. The stairs are quite steep and the treads are narrow. (No way to reconfigure them). Is there something that can be added to a clear poly finish that will give some traction?
Christy 12/10/2004 17:00:03	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: We're installing new treads and risers. The stairs are quite steep and the treads are narrow. (No way to reconfigure them). Is there something that can be added to a clear poly finish that will give some traction?
Ralph King 1/06/2005 15:13:02	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: i have solid oak stairs (8 years old). they have 3 coats of semi gloss urethain put on when new. It looks like they need recoating in some areas. Do i need to sand the stairs before applying the new urethain ?
Mark 1/06/2005 19:27:50	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Yes, you will need to sand the finish until it there is no more sheen in order for the new polyurethane to adhere properly.
Andrew 1/06/2005 19:49:43	refinishing doors and frames Message: I have 100+ year old red oak doors/frames/trim that were originally finished in shellac (no stain). The finish is now rather dull (not to mention dented, scratched and dinged). I want to refinish without stripping. Can I simply sand out the scratches, etc and then apply another coat or two of shellac? Will the sanded parts blend in with the un-sanded? Or is there some other way to repair the little dings and generally bring the shellac finish back to life?
Mark 1/07/2005 09:09:01	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Shellac is an evaporative finish - it does not cure. If you wipe alcohol onto shellac it will be completely removed. Additionally, application of more shellac will dissolve the underlying finish.
mark 1/08/2005 11:23:15	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: I would like to know if I can put danish oil on my unfinished staircase first, then strengthen the finish with poly urethane when the danish oil is dry. Are the two mixtures compatable for finishing?
NEIL 1/09/2005 00:12:20	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: THE BEST WAY TO GO IS TO STAIN AND THEN URETHANE. HOWEVER, YOU PROBABLY COULD USE AN OIL VARNISH PRODUCT LIKE ANTIQUE DANISH OIL AND THEN URETHANE OVER TOP. USE OIL BASE POLY U. IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TRY OUT FIRST TO MAKE SURE THE DIFFERENT PRODUCTS ARE COMPATIBALE
Danielle 1/14/2005 02:39:47	RE: refinishing Oak staircase Message: Does anyone have any ideas about rail staircase ... I want to redo them , however no clue on how, they have off white on them , that is very old .. I would love to redo them ... Danielle