Swing Paints Message Board

From	Message
Tony McGann 7/29/2003 20:46:05	Subject: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Bought the 3 items I think I need for the job to refinish my claw foot tub. That is the prep kit, the dilute solution, and the Klenk finishing kit. The tub I have has quite a few dime sized chips in the surface that will either need filling or the entire surface will need to be stripped. Should I use a power sander to remove the entire old surface. What is recommended. Also, the direction in the containers are skethcy at best, Is there a place on your web site that details the entire process and items I need in order to do a good job. Great site by the way and thanks. Tony
tony mcgann 7/29/2003 20:49:37	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Forgot to ask about any risks involved in sanding the old finish. If it involves lead release, then I might not bother at all since I cannot take the chance with young kids and a pregnant wife around.
Mark 7/30/2003 08:23:40	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: There should have been a detailed instruction sheet in the kit that contained the paint. If you do not have this, please let me know and I can e-mail it to you. It sounds as though you have an existing paint finish on your tub. Is that true? Or is the finish you are talking about the enamel. NEVER apply Klenk's Epoxy over an existing paint, unless it is an epoxy. NEVER apply Klenk's Epoxy over an existing paint that is chipped or peeling.
Tony McGann 7/30/2003 08:47:07	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I'd say it has been refinished before, but I am no expert. How can you tell what the previous finish might be? Epoxy or otherwise? If it has been refinished before, then what are the options for me? Still wondering about the lead issue too. Can I test for lead?
Mark 7/30/2003 09:32:09	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: If you put some of the Epoxy thinner onto a rag or cotton ball and rub it on the painted surface you can determine immediately. If there is no effect from the solvent (e.g., paint dulls or comes off onto the rag) you can paint over the existing paint. If the paint comes off with the thinner, or if there are chips in the paint, you should strip off the existing paint using Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. After stripping, following the instruction sheet for cleaning and preparing the tub. There is no lead issue if you use the paint remover as you are not creating any dust. There are lead testing kits that are available at most paint and hardware stores.
tony mcgann 7/30/2003 09:42:32	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Just quickly ran up and did your test. Using the epoxy thinner I rubbed an area of the tub and there was a fine powder on the rag (same colour as tub). Looks like the surface is not epoxy. That correct? Will your C-1850 stuff really remove this surface? How much 'manual' labour should I expect to get rid of this finish. Sanding etc?
tony mcgann 7/30/2003 10:16:41	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Also checked the box and there are two cans of Swing Epoxy part A & B, but no directions. Can you send me some?
Mark 7/30/2003 10:28:18	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: The paint should come off fairly easily. Apply a liberal coat on the top, let it sit for a few minutes, and gently brush off the finish. The stripper/finish gunk should adhere to the next section down and begin stripping that section. Continue in this fashion until each section is stripped. DO NOT allow any of the stripper to get into your pipes - cover the drain whole with aluminum foil. I have e-mailed you the instruction sheet. Please let me know the store where you bought the product so that I can ensure that the other kits contain the proper instructions.
Tony McGann 7/31/2003 10:01:35	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, when you say brush it off, I assume you mean wire brush. Correct? Some of the paint is a little more stubborn. Do I just keep applying the stripper and brushing? O.K. to use a steel paint scraper or am I going to damage the surface. Is that surface porcelain over the cast iron? Like a pale gray white colour. How do you suggest disposing of the crap that collects in the tub? Just sweep it into garbage bags? Vacuum Cleaner and empty vaccum bag right away?
Mark 7/31/2003 10:15:26	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You should use the same paint brush that was used to apply the stripper to take off the paint. If the paint is "stubborn", allow the stripper to stay on the surface for a longer period of time. Do not keep brushing over the surface or you will simply cause the stripper to evaporate quicker. If you want to use a metal scraper to remove the paint you need to take care not to gauge the porcelain surface or leave deep scratches. The removed paint that is saturated in stripper should be placed on a plastic drop sheet or metal container - you can use your scraper to scoop it out of the tub. After a few hours all the stripper will have evaporated and you will be left with dry paint. The dry paint is safe to go out with your regular garbage.
Tony McGann 7/31/2003 10:26:08	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hmm, I need to leave it on longer then. The old 'paint' certainly will not come off with a paint brush. I'd be there all day. It has been about 90 minutes since I applied the stripper and I have about 2 thirds cleaned off. I did use a plastic scraper however. Cannot see it coming off without the scraper to be honest. Any other ideas? Another question, the guy at Kents told me that the first epoxy coat, after the prep, should be diluted with your thinner. I think he might have been mistaken. Can you comment? Is it O.K. to clean off my stripped materials with the thinner, and then use the prep kit before the epoxy? So far, I am pretty pleased with your service. Hopefully, the product and my abilities will match.
Tony McGann 7/31/2003 10:34:45	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: OK Another question, sorry. What is the best type of brush to use for applying the epoxy? I have a pretty cheap 2 inch brush, but I notice you recommend 1 inch and doing 6 inch squares at a time. What about these foam brush things. Please comment....
Mark 7/31/2003 10:43:24	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Sounds like a tough coating on there. I sometimes use the Circa Stripping Tool - similar to a BBQ brush but with a replacable pad. The fellow at Kents is incorrect. NEVER dilute the epoxy when applying with a brush. Please advise the store name and clerk name if possible so that I can have our sales rep go in there to provide the correct information. I am not sure what you mean by cleaning off your materials - do you mean the tub surface? Yes, you can use the thinner or paint thinner to remove any residue from the tub. Afterwards, follow the instuctions for cleaning and preparing with the prep kit and the thinner. We recommend a 1" brush because the epoxy paint is very thin (low viscosity). If you use a bigger brush you tend to apply too much epoxy and it will run down the tub. You cannot use a foam brush because the solvent in the paint will eat throught it. A medium quality 1" brush will work the best. It must be cleaned very well between coats, or alternatively buy 2 brushes, one for each coat.
Mark 7/31/2003 10:44:24	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: By the way - is your computer in your bathroom :-)
PC in the Can Guy 7/31/2003 10:54:18	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: By the way - is your computer in your bathroom :-) No, I am sitting at home doing my work and have been running up and down the stairs checking the strip job. You're a funny guy. Last question, possibly, can I use the epoxy finish on the outer surface of the tub? This appears to be metal, iron or what have you. Not the enamel or porcelain on the inside.
Mark 7/31/2003 11:01:31	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You can paint ANY hard surface with Klenk's Epoxy. Some great examples Guy in Ontario swears it is the best thing to repaint the propellers on his outboard motor. Used in the food industry to paint walls to pass Agriculture Canada inspection. Used by hydro companies to repaint outdoor monitoring equipment.
Tony McGann 7/31/2003 11:11:34	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: OK I Lied. Here's another question. I read on some page here that I should keep the stripper saturated and not let it dry. Should I be applying stripper constantly? Seems to contradict what you said about brushing the surface. Perhaps you meant simply brushing the residue. What affect does direct sunlight have on the heavy duty stripper? I've got 3 big sky lights in the bathroom (next to the PC hehe! ) and it is like 90 degrees out today. O.K. that was 2 questions.
Mark 7/31/2003 11:51:32	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: With the Heavy Body Remover you will only need to reapply it every 15-30 minutes to keep it saturated. If it dries out, you simply apply more stripper to reactivate it. Constantly brush back and forth over the stripper will cause it to evaporate faster. The stripper will evaporate faster in direct sunlight and at higher temperatures. You may have to reapply the stripper more often if it dries out faster. At 90F, I would not be doing any painting, especially with a quick drying epoxy. Wait until the temperature is below 80 for best results.
tony mcgann 8/01/2003 23:00:59	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, still have some stubborn paint on the inside and outside of the tub. Gone through 2 litres of heavy stripper. Anything else you can suggest. Can I use a low heat blow torch on any surface of the tub? The stripper simply is not cutting it.....
Mark 8/02/2003 07:51:45	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Heating paint with a hair dryer or blow torch will sometimes cause the paint to soften and bubble. However, you should be extra cautious since heating lead paints will put dangerous amounts of lead in the atmosphere. Put a generous coat of Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover onto the areas that are difficult to remove. Cover the area with either a plastic sheet or aluminum foil to prevent evaporation of the stripper. Leave it on for as long as it takes to soften the finish.
Tony 8/02/2003 08:38:40	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Your're a consciencious guy working on Saturday. Understood on the lead. Did not think of that. I'll buy another litre (that'll be 3L) and try that on the tub today and cover it. It's a little cooler today too. I'll let you know how I make out. Do you guys have anything more volatile than the heavy duty stripper? By volatile, I am implying more corrosive not explosive. :)
Mark 8/02/2003 08:56:04	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Yes - we do have a Super Strong Stripper that we are in the process of bringing to market. It is currently being sold to professional bathtub reglazers when they must remove existing finishes prior to reglazing.
Tony McGann 8/02/2003 14:38:37	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Well, if I am still in the same situation tomorrow, I might request a small tin of that stuff if possible. Though, I am pretty condident that the current stripper applications are taking their toll on this stubborn paint, though I do need some elbow grease to finally remove them.
Tony M 8/20/2003 14:59:57	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Thought you might like an update and I have another question or two. Simply could not get all of the previous paint removed from the inside or outside of the tub. As I have family visiting this week, I decided to leave it and just paint over it. The result is that the tub looks great from far, but up close (like head inside the tub) you can see the tell tale signs of previous paint. For the price of this whole refinish, I have to say the result so far has pleased me. Tub looks great. You're probably gonna shoot me for this, but decided to paint the outside of the tub a plain black with this heat resistant black paint I had from a fire place project. The outside was simply to rough after stripping. However, with the bone finish on the inner tub it looks great. Any down side to this outer finish paint? I have painted one epoxy coat on the tub and I have to say it looks quite sharp. It obviously needs another coat or two. Wondering if more coats might hide the older paint layers. My questions; How many epoxy coats can I apply to the tub? Does applying multiple coats have the same affect as multiple varnish coats? Do you simply paint over the previous coat? How long to dry before the next coat? How long does the paint last if I keep freezing it? What is the minimum wait period before I can use the tub, and why is that?
Mark 8/20/2003 17:04:30	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You can apply as many coats as you like of Klenk's Epoxy. The more coats the better, within limits. I would say that 3 or 4 coats would be the maximum. Be careful about getting any of the epoxy onto your black paint as it may strip it right off. If you have waited over 5 days you should lightly sand the tub with 600 or finer grit sandpaper prior to repainting or the new epoxy will not adhere. Wait approximately 24 between any coats. The mixed product will only last a few (3-5 days) even if frozen between coats. The only way to make the paint last longer is to only mix up the amount needed per coat. The unmixed paint can be stored for a few years. You should wait a minimum of 5 days prior to using the tub. It takes epoxies about 30 days to cure completely, but after 5 days the epoxy is sufficiently cured to allow for standing water. Using a heat lamp next to the painted tub will decrease the cure time.
darren 8/23/2003 14:16:43	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I have put two coats on but some areas do not seam like they are covering
Mark 8/23/2003 14:29:55	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Please be more specfic - what do you mean by not covering.....streaks, runs, small circles, etc.
tony m 8/24/2003 07:55:35	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: 2 coats looks great on mine, but I completetly stripped the surface first. Think it had been re-finished by someone else before me.
jamie 9/02/2003 16:55:57	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Purchased your product (Klenk's epoxy enamel)@ Home Depot in Toronto - there are no instructions in the box other than on the tins (tin A and tin B). Please email a copy of the detailed instructions. Thanks
Chuck 9/06/2003 22:11:29	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, Re: Bath tub refinish I'm like the two other guys before me. I bought my kit at a HOME DEPOT in Fort Worth, Texas and it did not have detailed instructions for mixing the two "prep" ingredients (Sodium Carbonate and Citric Acid). There was only the A & B instructions. I'm looking for specifics -- i.e., "empty the package into a quart of water, use a sponge, let set for one hour, etc". There's nothing like that in the package and I've searched the net to no avail. Can you help?
Mark 9/07/2003 06:02:02	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Chuck, Unfortunately, we are not associated with Klenks in the US. You should contact the people at ICI Paint for detailed information on using their products.
evelyn morrison 9/08/2003 14:25:50	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: i also bought your prep kit, & paint kit, at a home depot in toronto, ontario. there were detailed instructions included for prepping the surface, but not re: actual mixing of the paint, how to apply, how many coats,any waiting time, use within so many minutes, storage of mixed product, etc. i would appreciate that info, and.... i would appreciate your advice ; this is for an old pedestal sink, prob ca 1940. we had it "professionally" reglazed about 20 years ago - that lasted about 8 years max.. the bowl and ledge areas have large amounts of the reglazing peeled/chipped away,exposing the greyish porcelain underneath. it is evident on the sides of the sink that the reglazing is shot, since small chips are starting to appear there too... furthermore, the original finish is now pitting - i assume that sandblasting was done when we had it reglazed.. i got a tube of porcelain filler for the pitting.. i did NOT get your epoxy thinner...what stage is it for/is it essential? i have 150 & 180 sandpaper, as well as some 600 wet/dry auto refinish silicon carbide paper.. a neighbour, a professional painter, told me i was wasting my time attempting this on my own - that toothpaste was very abrasive & this repair, if possible, would only last a year...if i survived sanding by hand for a week if i do get there...can i spray this on ? the sink is rectangular with a round bowl... apologies for the questions...(it is monday...) thank you. evelyn
Mark 9/08/2003 15:24:29	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: There should be a detailed instruction sheet in the box that includes the 2 cans of paint. If it is not in there, let me know and I can e-mail you a copy. DO NOT PROCEED IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE INSTRUCTION SHEET. The best procedure would be to completely remove the all of the existing and peeling paint. You can use Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover to take off the paint. You can then follow the directions for preparing and painting the sink. DO NOT USE the porcelain filler unless it is either epoxy or polyester based. It will come right off as soon as you apply the paint. If there are any deep chips or gouges they should be filled using an epoxy filler (as per instructions with the paint kit). Yes, toothpaste is abrasive. But most people do not brush their sink with it. The paint will last a good long time as long as the surface is properly prepared (very clean and sanded) and there are no harsh abrasived used in its cleaning after the paint has cured. You may spray Klenk's Epoxy, but should be very familiar with spraying these types of paint prior to attempting this job.
evelyn morrison 9/08/2003 17:10:43	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: it really is monday... i missed the actual painting instructions on the reverse side of the sheet...(not an auspicious start..). apologies. 1)the circa 1850 will strip the reglazing but leave the old porcelain underneath, unscathed ? 2) the tube of porcelain repair is by "dynamic..heavy bodied porcelain repair", from home despot. are you familiar with it? (dynamic, that is...). there is no indication on the package as to whether it is either epoxy or polyester based. it is described "for stoves, sinks, refrigerators and tubs...one application dries to a glossy finish that lasts..water resistant.." sounds as if designed as a cosmetic, top-coat filler... 3) the epoxy thinner is required for spills and clean-up only ? thank you. evelyn
Mark 9/08/2003 18:21:41	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: 1. Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover will strip off the existing paint while having no adverse effect on the porcelain. 2. I am famimiliar with the product. It is just regular paint. DO NOT USE it under the Klenk's epoxy. It is for touch ups only. 3. Epoxy thinner is for clean up of spills and brushes. It also is used in the preparation to ensure that the the surface is clean and free of silicone caulking.
evelyn morrison 9/11/2003 12:45:29	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: looks as if my message much earlier to-day didn't go thru... 1) the heavy body paint & v. remover took off the reglazing, but on horizontal areas where the reglazing came off with the stripper, there is a pink streaking on the surface. on adjacent areas where the reglazing had chipped off on its own, there is no pink. 2) there are a couple of slightly deeper chips in the exposed porcelain finish - these are not off-white but grey. does this mean the sink is likely ceramic with a porcelain glaze, and not porcelain all the way thru ? (it is approx 75 years old). 3) will the klencks adhere to the grey chipped areas, if i can live with these small indentations? or do i have to track down a car body shop for filler...? 4) your advice above, at one point, says that the surface must be properly cleaned *and sanded*. is sanding necessary ? i don't see it mentioned in the 8-step program to proper prep... 5) you should tout the merits of your ca 1850 maple scraper...a fabulous little tool that worked really well even on the basin, and on the bevelled vertical edges of the sink. only areas it didn't fit were faucet and drain holes.. thank you. evelyn
Mark 9/11/2003 13:13:10	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: That maple scraper is the best!!!! I could not agree more. I has replaced my regular scraper, as well as my tooth picks and rope that I used to use when stripping furniture. I have no idea what the pink streaking could be from. The remover would not cause that nor is there any reaction that I know of that would make it turn pink. The only thing I have ever seen pink in a tub is caused by mildew. Try washing with bleach and see what happens. The Klenks will adhere to the chipped areas. I would spend the time to go to Canadian Tire and get a small tube of epoxy filler. Call me a perfectionist. The Prep Kit contains an abrasive cleaner and an abrasive pad. If you do not use the prep kit you must be sure to sand as well as clean. Sorry for the confusion.
evelyn morrison 9/11/2003 14:22:42	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: since posted, used klenck's thinner which has cleaned up grey pitted areas somewhat, but had no effect on pink.. pc's green chlorine free bleach made no dent in the pink, maybe not nasty enough...think pink is pale enough not to be an issue... re; body filler - looks as if stalled out now, since can't get to crappy tire until tomorrow.. since am certain it's to be used, sanded if necessary, before proceed further (with prep kit..) drats ! another suggestion: should be self-evident, but stripping & painting be done in best possible light..to-day found tiny bits of glaze still adhering, not visible when winding up late yesterday... thank you. havagoodday...
tony m 9/11/2003 15:27:18	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: same applies for painting the tub. Do it in good daylight or you miss spots you thik you have painted. I left the chips and blemishes in my tub and did not bother to fill. I must say that the tub looks far bettter now than before. Though not a professional finish, it was worth the $50 and several days of sweat, compared to $400 to get a pro. Better than I expected it would turn out for an average joe like me.
evelyn morrison 9/11/2003 16:55:10	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: i toddled up the street to a good car paint & body shop. i now have about 1/4 cup of extremely smelly viscous grey compound on my front step, apparently carried by crappy tire, and a bit of "cream hardener" to be mixed with it - in two batches -in a red & white tube,by catalyst systems, gnadenhutten, ohio, containing benzoyl peroxide in ester type plasticizer... plus a few grades of slightly used sandpaper, all courtesy of the auto body shop. i was told : once i mix the hardener with the soft grey stuff, it will set up very quickly as a chip filleR - have perhaps 5 minutes to work with it max... question : ****is the klenck's epoxy thinner ok to leave on or should it be rinsed off, and with what, before using the pit filler ? 2) i was also advised by them - & i know you say NOTHING should be under your klenck's epoxy.. to a) get a spray can of motomaster white primer from crappy tire BEFORE putting on your epoxy.. b) try and spray your epoxy, since will get marks from the brush, particularly with such a large sink and such a high basin ledge.. c) finish with a clear spray, also by motomaster, to make it shine. i would particularly appreciate your advice re prepping for the filler application. (fortunately it is too hot -and too late - to try and paint to-day, but that grey filler compound is whiffy stuff...) thank you.
evelyn morrison 9/11/2003 17:05:16	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: oops...meant to say sorry about this, but that word "perfectionist' was like a red flag..& there i was trying to convince myself i could live with those little chips, there was nowhere to go but up.. on the other hand...you do realize no-one will be allowed to use this masterpiece once we come thru the other side of this...will deserve a place of honour in the living room.. (hope you hear that a lot...)
Mark 9/11/2003 17:11:39	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Let the thinner evaporate for about 15 minutes - it should be completely dry by that time. This should also work very well in cleaning up that gooey grey filler. Go ahead - spray the primer. See if I was right or wrong. A professional spraying will certainly give you a nicer finish. However, an amateur sprayer like yourself (large assumption) will be better off brushing. Take your time and it will look beautiful. Applying a clear spray over the epoxy is just about the silliest thing I have heard. Sure it will look shiny - but there is nothing that stands up better to water than a two component epoxy. When the clear finish starts to chip or wear aware you will have to start from scratch.
evelyn morrison 9/11/2003 18:27:36	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: when i get contradictory / additional advice about something, partic when i'm investing such an amount of time on something i haven't done, i need to bounce that off "the primary source". it will be your advice that i am going with..that's why i asked - it's your product. my apologies if that wasn't clear. thank you for answering all of my questions p.s. you were also right about the pink -likely mildew ...it comes off with a very light touch of 600 wet/dry sandpaper..)
Mark 9/11/2003 19:49:07	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I meant "Go ahead - spray the primer. See if I was right or wrong" to sound sarcastic....sorry if it did not come out that way.
Bonnie 9/16/2003 16:46:33	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I am just preparing my clawfoot bathtub for refinishing using Klenks Expoxy kit and a small brush! I have been following this exchange very closely as I am a little apprehensive about beginning such a large project! Can anyone give me some basic info - which end of the tub is it easier to start from? And is it 24 hours between coats? Any pointers, suggestions or helpful hints learned thru experience would be very much appreciated! Many thanks,
tony mcgann 9/19/2003 10:14:42	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: if there is an existing re-finish apparent (i.e. cracks in the original paint or holes) then I'd suggest removing it as direceted in this thread. My experience was that this takes a long time and alot of elbow grease using the stripper circa 1850. I used about 3-4 litres of stripper as mine was very stubborn. This stuff ain't cheap at $30 and tax for 4L. Suggest buying the 4L before you get the 1L at $13. Use the leftover for other projects. I cleaned my surface pretty vigorously with the prep kit following the instructions. If you do this, then I see no problems. The prep and the stripping was the tedious part of the job. The painting, to my surprise, is a breeze in comparison. The reults I got where fantastic. I started painting around the top of the tub in 6 inch squares, as directed here. Went right around the top edge, then worked my way down to the inner surface. This way, you get to see any excees drips on your way down from the drying stuff above. You might wanna leave a foot or so clear where you can lean into the tub. I think I did that on the one side I was working from. Then finish that bit last. I made a mistake of painting in room light. Well I had to put the baby to bed. If you can get daylight on your tub, then you can see all the blemishes and areas you have missed. Finally, I could not remove all the previous finish with the stripper (6-7 coats), and decided in the end to paint over it. These might have been small areas of crumb sized paint. I also had some scratches (small gouges) on the surface of the tub which i did not fill. The tub is about 60 plus years old you understand. Once painted, unless you get really close to the tub surface, you cannot see these blemishes at all. The tub looks terrific when you look at it standing up. And really, that is all I hoped to accomplish. Has that real nice sheen on it too. If I'd taken time to fill the cracks, then I might have been a little happier, who knows. Time I did not have. Can't think of anything else off the top. Hope this helps.
Lauren 9/22/2003 16:37:46	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: If I use my shower/tub only for showers "no standing water" do I still need to wait 5 days for the epoxy to cure? I only have one bathroom.
Mark 9/22/2003 18:30:11	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Sorry Lauren - you are going to have to use extra deodorant for the 5 days.
evelyn morrison 9/27/2003 19:44:09	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: mark: after waiting for too high temps,humidity etc.which = getting involved in another project... finnallly,lightly sanded sink down, filled chips with epoxy filler,sanded etc... & then followed prep kit directions carefully, including rinsing rinsing rinsing.. i just put on coat # 1 (moved sink off front porch into kitchen so above 65 F...) using a "fine touch" 1" medium quality brush for alkyd paints. already the sink looks sooooo much better. but,afraid i have a couple of questions before i do coat # 2 (& i think with basin, will require 3, tho read above that's almost the max...) 1) i didn't see a couple of drips on the 4" bevelled side before too late. did someone mention -(on another thread ?)- sanding before the next coat...but because of blooper, have to wait a certain period of time before can sand or think you said, will have "gummy mess" ? how long do i have to wait? 2) if/once i do sand coat #1 with 600 or finer, what liquid should i use to wipe down the sink prior to coat # 2? 3)my sink is a 22x28 rectangle, with an oval basin 12 x17, with a raised edge running around...my question is about brush technique.. i.e. if you're painting a wall, you're supposed to keep a "wet edge" to reduce overlap lines.. i soon found that the various planes of the sink combined with the fast-drying epoxy, meant that edges somewhere invariably were dry before i could get to them, leaving small overlap lines. will this likely disappear with the second coat as long as i vary my approach? at this stage, it looks as if the sloping basin will be the only reason a third coat might be required. so far, looks very good. only major concern is that there are a couple of small filler spots in basin that i missed with paint..or maybe it ran off. that will be starting area with coat # 2.. & it's shiny !!!!! thank you evelyn
evelyn morrison 9/27/2003 19:47:58	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: just found answer to my first question on sanding interval, under "lisa' 5 days...moan... evelyn
Mark 9/28/2003 14:03:55	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Wipe down the surface with Klenk's Epoxy thinner or with a tack cloth after sanding and prior to applying the next coat. Second coat should go in 6 inch squares - but offset from those on coat number one. Usually best to work around the sink or tub then go up to the next level.
evelyn morrison 9/30/2003 15:04:38	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: mark, saturday aft i froze my leftover paint in a jar (leaving headroom..). since i have to wait 5 days (until thursday) to sand the drip-line,& somewhere on a thread it says that even with freezing , paint will only last 3-5 days once it has been mixed... fortunately i only mixed 1/2, but am curious. 1) is there a visible difference in the paint, that indicates it is unusable ? 2) since will be down to last half of paint supply, and really think will have to do three coats, is it necessary to freeze the leftover paint after coat number 2, or is it ok to keep it in the fridge for the 24 hours (hopefully ) between coats ? thank you.& thank you for your reply on a weekend. great support. evelyn
Mark 9/30/2003 15:27:03	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: The paint will thicken appreciably after a while, thus limiting its ability to self level. In other words, it will leave brush marks and not a smooth uniform finish. It would be best to freeze the mixture, or only mix up 1/2 of what you have left for the second coat and leave the final portion unmixed until required.
Trevor 10/12/2003 14:06:02	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, We purchased Klenk's Swiss Formula Epoxy Enamel at Home Depot, in Edmonton. Unfortunately the box had no instructions. I looked on the site but could not find detailed instructions. Could you please e-mail them to me or a link to the spot where I can download them. Thanks for the help!! Trevor
Trevor 10/12/2003 15:48:11	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, We purchased Klenk's Swiss Formula Epoxy Enamel at Home Depot, in Edmonton. Unfortunately the box had no instructions. I looked on the site but could not find detailed instructions. Could you please e-mail them to me or a link to the spot where I can download them. Thanks for the help!! Trevor
evelyn morrison 10/17/2003 17:11:43	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: hi mark : my sink is just about a beautiful wrap... my question: in some places,with each coat, i seem to get wet paint "splitting" a bit to expose the previous coat underneath. these usually are in form of narrow streaks,about 1" long or more. this happens on both horizontal & sloped/edge locations. i would expect that if surface hadn't been sanded, pumiced /prepped, but it was twice, including after 2nd round of epoxy filler in chips. i have tried sanding with 600 wet sandpaper, after using 180 lightly, then wiping well, then cleaning with klenck's thinner as advised & letting dry well , between coats... have been mixing a & b in equal amounts, fresh for each coat, (following stirring separately and sitting for 1 hr instructions). i really wondered whether it was the brush, so have used two different makes of brushes, each a medium quality bristle from a paint dealer. the streaking has occurred whether the brush was new or thoroughly cleaned (reused once only). i am keeping brushing to a minimum, since understood that trying to brush & brush will only create brush marks..as much as possible, limited strictly to one stroke to apply paint... with last coat did find that putting a bit more paint on the horizontal areas has reduced this "splitting" tendency, but unfortunately doesn't work on edge & slope areas, since paint drips down vertical edges - & still "splits", particularly along the edge of the sink, a 90 degree edge... this is not a life-threatening situation, since these marks are only noticeable close-up. i possibly will do one last coat, and i wondered if you had any suggestions..would these be what are referred to in some posts as "fish-eyes"? they aren't round.. any suggestions as to what i might be doing wrong would be appreciated... it sure looks great in spite of this... p.s.: another great use for that maple scraper: removing excess silicone from shower door installation/tub area, before silicone sets up too much.. thank you.
Mark 10/18/2003 13:54:06	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Evelyn, Sounds as though you are getting to be quite the expert! I hope you will be able to answer some of the questions when they are posed. No - you do not have "fish eyes". These are small (dime sized or smaller) circles where the paint does not adhere due to contamination with silicone caulking. Because the Klenk's Epoxy finish is so hard and glossy it is important that you do not wait too many days between coats. If you are waiting more than 3 days between coats you will want to scuff up the surface with sandpaper (very, very fine) to remove the gloss and increase adhesion. If you don't you may end up with the streaks that you have described.
evelyn 10/18/2003 15:39:40	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: thank you for the compliment ; my expertise really lies in scooting either one floor up or down to find a sink... i have been sanding lightly between coats if more than a few days, but suspect the 600 wet paper is too fine, particularly for the edges.. so am going to try just 180/220 before the next coat. ( or i've screwed up my mix - it IS equal parts a & b, isn't it ?) thank you again for your advice, particularly on the weekend.
holly 10/22/2003 11:33:42	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I purchased a box of Klenk's Swiss Formula Epoxy Enamel tub and tile finish about 4 months ago. I read the instructions and realized I needed the prep kit and epoxy thinner. I have since purchased those items and have found that I have misplaced the instructions could you please email me a copy. Thanks.
willy eitel 10/23/2003 18:36:22	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: i like to refinish my bathtop which is avocado green.the local store only carries white and beige. where can i get my color? and please with instructions. thnks willy eitel
Mark 10/24/2003 06:22:35	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Any store that carries Klenk's Epoxy can special order it from us in ANY COLOUR. Some stores are aware of this and are quite willing to order it - others may not be so willing.
Amy McDaniel 11/15/2003 14:16:55	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I'm beginning to think Klenck's often forgets to put the instructions in their packages--mine were not there either! Could you e-mail me the instructions? I bought the Sink REfinishing Kit for Porcelain & Ceramic Surfaces. Thank you! Amy McDaniel
Mark 11/16/2003 08:00:58	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Sorry Amy, but you have contacted the wrong site. The Sink Refinishing Kit is made by another company in the US. Maybe you can ask them why they forget to put instructions in their packages.
Dwight 11/19/2003 12:16:58	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I got the Klenk's kit with epoxy A and epoxy B and sandpaper and porcelain prep but no instructions. Can you email me? thanks, Dwight
Gahl 11/30/2003 19:51:32	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi, I applied 2 coats to my tub today (after all the appropriate preparations that were in the instructions) and both times I noticed there were small "grey" spots in the basin where it seems the epoxy is not adhereing. I suspect it might be silicone caulking (you mentioned something about fish eyes). Any suggestions on what to do?
Mark 12/01/2003 07:46:36	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Yes, that does sound like fish-eyes to me. You can apply a third coat after adding a drop or two of Fish-Eye Eliminator (available at paint stores that sell professional finishes or lacquers). That will take care of the problem.
Gahl 12/01/2003 10:20:14	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Is that what the product is actually called? Fish-Eye eliminator? Is it also make by Klenks?.. Any sanding or prepwork involved?...Err..sorry for all the questions..I just want to be sure this comes out well....Perhaps you could give me a quick step by step if possible? THanks for both the quick response and the help as well!
Mark 12/01/2003 10:25:52	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: If you ask the person in the paint store for a fish eye eliminator they will know what you are talking about. We do not make the product. Simply add one or two drops to the exisinging paint after you take it out from the freezer. Stir gently. Let it warm up to room temperature and apply it. There is no additional prep work involved. NOTE: If the paint has begun to gel up and is very thick (you only have a few days of working time if it is stored in the freezer), do not use it. It will not level out and will leave many brush marks. Get a new kit.
Gahl 12/01/2003 12:09:52	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: OH! I see! You're saying just a few drops to the actual A+B epoxy formula and just paint it right over the fish eyes? (Sorry if I sound dumb here...) and I understand the whole freezer thing, I unfortunatly didn't even freeze the materials, so i'll probably have to go get a new kit (unless you think 24-48 hours at room tempurature is ok to still use it)...and just to reiterate..you're saying no sanding or cleaning (provided I haven't touched the tub)? Just paint another coat on the offending areas or repaint the whole tub? Many thanks once again!
Mark 12/01/2003 12:23:16	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: The epoxy is probably much too thick to use right now - so you'd be better off with a new kit. Mix up the new kit A & B, add a drop or two of the fish eye eliminator and paint over the entire surface. The fish eyes will disappear with this new coat. There is no need for additional prep or cleaner work.
Gahl 12/01/2003 14:22:29	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Please don't kill me! I'm just curious at this point....Is there something in the eliminator that I guess helps the Epoxy to adhere (some sort of chemical reaction I assume?)... Thanks again..can't wait to finish it off....
rob 12/02/2003 12:35:02	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: hi I did my first tub 2 years ago using the epoxy after the preparation kit. This year I notice that it was starting to peel off around the plug hole. It has gradually gotten worse. Is there any way to repair the area that has flaked off or do I need to strip the whole tub? I just picked up an old claw foot for another bathroom. 1)It has some damage around the taps and the rust is coming through. Is there any way just to repair the damage or do I have to do the whole tub. 2)The outside has been painted on one side and the other side (against the wall I guess)is rough and rusty. What is the best/fastest way to redo the outside... I was thinking of a dark blue with white feet... thanks
Mark 12/02/2003 12:56:46	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Once the paint begins to peel it is best to remove all the old finish and start from scratch as you don't really know how far the damage has gone. It will also look a lot better if you don't have the old paint edge. Use Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover to take off the old finish. Clean the tub thoroughly and repaint. Pay particular attention to the area around the drain hole as that gave you trouble the last time. The area should be extra clean and free from rust. For the clawfoot tub, the same procedure is recommended. Rust should always be removed and then a rust neutralizer (or rust converter) used. This prevents the rust from reforming under the finish and causing it to peel off. Most places that sell autobody supplies (CTC, etc) carry rust converters. Unless the existing paint is an epoxy, you will not be able to use Klenk's over the existing finish. The Klenk's will cause the existing finish to peel off.
suzy 12/29/2003 19:34:41	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: quick question. i have used klenks before on my bathtub and since it turned out so nice i thought i would be brave and try it on my countertop in the bathroom. i dont like it at all. it looks really fake and i want it off. how can i take it off without hurting the surface under it?? thank you!!
Mark 12/29/2003 21:02:38	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Was is the countertop made out of?
Glenna 1/31/2004 18:01:07	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: How can I paint the interior and exterior of a bathtub please? House was built in the 1950's so is it porcelain over metal? Thanks. I await your reply.
Mark 2/01/2004 11:02:19	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Klenk's Epoxy can be used to paint onto your bathtub. Instructions on cleaning, preparing and painting are including in the box.
jackie 2/28/2004 18:31:53	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi, I bought the klenk's tub and tile epoxy kit - but can't seem to find any instructions...could you e-mail them to me? Thanks so much!
Dwayne 3/18/2004 13:29:56	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hello Mark. First I want to say what great customer service I have read in these threads. cudos . I refinish all types of tubs for a management co in Winnipeg and get your over the counter product (in white)at McDairmid or Rona Revy. Most tubs turn out awesome. I use an electric sprayer after prepping the tubs. Three thin coats in 20 minute intervals under a heat lamp. However some spots fish eye, and Im not sure if it is silicone contamination. What can I do or use to ensure adhesion?
Dwayne 3/18/2004 13:41:55	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I have used silicone be gone .. a pasty oil based substance esp on the top edges of the tubs but its messy. Cutting away old caulking that meets a tub surround and then polishing the surface with a neoprene bristle wheel on my drill works great. There are still those areas on the bottom base and they are frustrating. Who invented silycone anyway?
Mark 3/18/2004 14:05:15	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Silicone is a wonder substance - but don't ever try to paint over it. I have never tried "silicone be gone" but have used a Dow product at one time. It was not the greatest. I think the best way is still cut off the silicone, and then scrape, sand and scrub to remove the residue. There is an anti-fish eye product that you can get at paint stores that sell industrial coatings. Adding just a few drops to your second coat will completely eliminate the fish eyes. By the way, I would absolutely love if you could give us a detailed description of how you apply the product with an electric spray gun. I get a lot of requests but I do not have any any experience in this field.
Saul 3/18/2004 14:09:46	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I would like to have sporay instructions too.
Dwayne 3/19/2004 00:05:43	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: After the tub or tile is cleaned and etched one must mask off the whole area outside of the prepared surface. regular masking tape covering fully the perimeter of the tub and the addition of news paper pages works well. A Wagner or equivalent Electric spraygun will work. Ensure one uses an oil based atomizer tip. This is the component that "propells" the product out of the nozzle. The latex ones tend to swell and not operate properly after several uses and cleans. Nozzles...use a medium or fine nozzle. It seems to give the best pattern for this light very viscous paint. Like a brush method light coats are the key. I keep a garbage can with a garbage bag in it on site to intermittently spray the product into. This way one can adjust the pattern if it seems to be going on too thick. Leave for 10 minutes and let the paint get tacky. If you can increase the heat in the room while you are gone ... good it seems to help the epoxy develop a kind of surface tension. The second and third coats are trickier. Now the white is more prevalent and it is harder to tell where one might be spraying too much ... possibly causing drips you'll have to sand out later. Plan out how you'll spray the whole tub and use the same method each time. Remember light coats. For really great results let the consecutive applications dry 24 hrs and sand off imperfections with 220 - 600 grit sand paper the next day. Tack cloth wipe off excesss powdered paint and wipe whole tub with lint free cloth damp with epoxy thinner ...let dry . Ready to spray same method ... nice even light coat. Cleaning the sprayer ... empty the resevoir cup by unscrewing it from the gun body pour out the paint to be discarded or frozen . pour in a liberal amount of Sherwin Williams gun cleaner or Klenk's epoxy thinner. Screw resevoir cup back onto gun body. Swirl mixture around inside and dilute as much as possible. Spray this diluted mixture into a garbage can as suggested. Tip ... this is a really airbourne spray as it is so diluted ... cover the garbage can right away to keep these fumes trapped. the sprayer must still be disassembled and cleaned with an epoxy diluting solvent. I use a specific gun cleaning spirit ... if components of a sprayer are soaked in a spirit like this and the epoxy paint residue on these components is already diluted and still wet, chances are these parts will come very clean.
Shawn 3/22/2004 10:19:23	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I have just recently purchased your epoxy tub and tile kit. There were no instructions inside. I would really appreciate it if you could email them to me. Thank you.
Ben 3/24/2004 15:53:50	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi There, What's the best paint for b-tub refinishing: epoxy or urethane? Where can I get these paints for my HVLP? Really appreciate your help. Ben
Eugene 4/03/2004 20:07:44	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: the question I would like answered was asked by someone else but was not answered. I would like to know the best way to remove epoxy finish from a bathtub.I have tried aircraft stripper and other industrial strippers but they do not soften or loosen the material at all. I would perfer a brush on material like the aircraft stripper. thank you
Mark 4/05/2004 06:26:20	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Vanish remover will remove the epoxy finish from bathtubs.
Sandra 4/06/2004 09:46:16	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I am having problems finishing my tub properly. I used all the products that I was supposed to - it's the finishing that I'm am having a problem with. I was told to use a high density foam roller - from people who have taken on this project - it was working great although the paint is not drying smooth. Do you have any suggestions. This is about the 6th coat of paint. Please help
Mark 4/06/2004 10:44:47	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You will never achieve as smooth a finish using a roller as you will using a paint brush. Rollers always give a bumpy, orange peel finish.
Mary Clancy 5/05/2004 13:21:10	RE: Antique Porcelain Farmhouse Sink Message: We are rennovating our kitchen. Our bright idea is to install an anitque farmhouse kitchen sink. This sink could use new porcelain as apposed to spot fixing and glazing. We can't find a company in Ontario, Canada that would completely resurface our old sink with new porcelain. Does anyone out there know of such a company. Your help would be appreciated. Yours Mary.
Mark 5/05/2004 14:01:11	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You cannot resurface an old sink with new porcelain as it would most likely crack the original finish. However, there are several companies that surface using epoxy. One such company is Bathtub King.
Robert 5/06/2004 23:59:26	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: What is the best HVLP spray system for bathtub refinishing. I've done some painting, but never with an epoxy.
John 5/07/2004 07:46:52	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: See above message from Dwayne
Lori 5/26/2004 22:26:42	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I also bought your tub & tile finish product from Home Depot in Toronto Canada and it did not have any instructions in it... only the two cans A and B. I have just finished with the tub and tile prep kit. When I opened the box of the epoxy enamel, there were no instructions. I came on the internet to see if they were posted online somewhere. Could you please email me a copy of the instructions ASAP? Thanks, Lori
Alexandria 6/20/2004 01:36:47	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Wow, Mark, I'm about to do this same project and read this thread. You are very dedicated! You answered my every question. Thank you!
gregg 7/05/2004 20:41:04	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I've been using the product on my tub - have instructions etc.....but how will I know when I am done sanding? Can I use an electric sander? I'm using 220 grit. Thanks, G
Mark 7/06/2004 06:52:58	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You should sand until the surface is no longer glossy. Electric sanding is fine.
gregg 7/06/2004 08:05:51	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: thanks - - I guess I'm back to sanding this morning.
Melissa 7/08/2004 12:05:03	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Instructions on how to spray the finishing on the tub.
Megan 7/22/2004 21:15:59	Klenks--paint over stains? Message: Hi Mark, I used klenks on my kitchen sink last month and it already has small yellow stains from food that a friend left sitting in there overnight. can i paint over these with more epoxy solution?? or with some sort of silicone sealant or something?? thanks! Megan
Sarah 7/23/2004 19:38:18	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark, Man, do you offer great customer service! I've learned more about refinishing here than on all the other bathtub sites combined. Luckily for me, I only want to repaint the outside of my clawfoot tub. The old paint is peeling at the end of the tub; should I use the Circa 1850 stripper on the whole thing, or just sand and paint over the rest? Where can I buy your products in Maine or New Hampshire. And, finally, is it okay to use normal latex paint on the exterior? Thank you! Sarah
Mark 7/24/2004 09:38:14	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Since you are only repainting the outside of the tub, it is not really necessary to use Klenk's Epoxy. However, you will find that the epoxy will last for many more years than will a normal paint, and will stand up to abuse. If you go with a regular latex paint, strip or sand off the old finish and apply the paint. If you decide to go with Klenk's Epoxy, you will need to completely remove the existing coating as it will not be compatible with the new finish. Klenk's Epoxy is only available in Canada. There are similar epoxy coating that can be found in the US.
elizabeth casey 7/26/2004 16:22:03	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I can't give you my e-mail because I am at home and I don't have e-mail here so I will have to wait for your response on this page. Anyway I did one coat yesterday after spending the previous day preparing tub. Now I have 4 small mini fish eyes in the bottom of the tub. Spent most of today looking for "fish eye eliminator" everyone I asked looked at me like I was crazy. I have checked at paint stores, cdn tire, auto paint, home depot, rona. Where can I find this stuff and what is it's real name? I am running out of time for my second coat. Please advise asap Thanks
Mark 7/27/2004 06:26:18	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Canadian Tire definately carries it. It is either called fish eye eliminator or anti-fish eye solution. I don't know the brand name. You can also check at a paint store that sell industrial finishes (lacquers) or you may be able to get a small sample at an auto body shop. All you need it 2 drops.
Lori 8/25/2004 08:03:08	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, You have done an excellent job answering everyone's questions. Your answers are concise and understandable. I would like to know what to use to refinish a fiberglass or acrylic tub. Which type of paint should I use - epoxy or urethane based? (and what is the difference?)
Mark 8/25/2004 09:54:40	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: The problem with some of the fibreglass or acrylic tubs is that they are not resistant to the solvents in the paint. Therefore, it is possible that the surface with soften or melt when a finish is applied. Epoxies for bathtubs are far more durable, chemical resistant and scratch resistant than are urethanes for tubs. The only real advantage to the urethane system is that is resists yellowing (epoxies yellow in the presence of UV light) better than epoxies. With that said, there are kits designed specifically for fibreglass and acrylics tubs, but they are not as good as the epoxy systems. If it were me, I would get a can of the epoxy thinner and do a test on the tub. Apply some thinner to a cotton ball and apply it to an inconspicuous location (maybe one that is already showing wear). If the cotton ball sticks or otherwise modifies the surface of the tub, do not use the epoxy system. If nothing happens you are safe to use the epoxy.
Rahul 8/26/2004 16:01:57	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Rust-Oleum also now sells a product called Tub & Tile. How good is it?
Lori 8/28/2004 04:24:17	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Mark, Thank you for your information about epoxy and urethane products. It will help me greatly to decide which product to use. I am glad your forum is around to help all us DIY'ers. :) Thanks again.
Stan 9/16/2004 11:41:09	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark, There have been a couple of queries about using LPHV sprayer but they have not been answered. I am going to be refinishing my tub next week and would like to use my LPHV to do the job. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
mitz 9/28/2004 15:29:31	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark, I'm in the same boat...I purchased klenk's Epoxy enamel without any insttruction. Can you post the instruction on a website or email to me Thanks
Andy 10/09/2004 01:28:40	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I am considering buying Circa 1850 Paint & Varnish Stripper to remove epoxy from my bathtub. Can you tell me: -What kind of scraper should I use (plastic, metal, other?) -How long does the product have to sit on the epoxy before it can be scraped up? -Is the product's vapors harmful? -Can you use the tub immediately after using the stripper? -Can I use the product to simply remove the epoxy and leave the porcelain tub "natural" without re-painting it? In other words, will the product make the porcelain tub less shiny or harm it in any way? Most people are removing the epoxy and placing a new product on top. I do not want to do this. Thanks so much.
Mark 10/09/2004 09:16:09	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You should apply Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover to the tub and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Once the paint has bubbled or softened you can remove it with a wood scraper. Paint removers should always be used in areas that have proper ventillation - an open window or ceiling fan will work. After stripping you will want to wash down the surface with paint thinner to remove any residue. Allow the surface to dry prior to use.
waterbird 10/19/2004 05:14:58	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark, I'm using a hvlp sprayer and will be using tub & tile epoxy pack to spray the tub. The spraying instruction say's to add 15% lacquer thinner for the first, 30% 2nd coat and 50% third coat. How much ounce of lacquer thinner for the first coat should go in. How much ounce should go in for the second coat and how much ounce should go in the third coat. I don't understand the 15% for the first coat and 15% for the second coat and 50% for the third coat. Could you explain it easier by adding lacquer thinner by the ounce for the 1st, 2nd and third coat. Thank you James
Mark 10/19/2004 06:16:55	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You have the wrong product - our product is not sold in the US. We would never recommend using lacquer thinner for spraying, and certainly not in those proportions.
waterbird 10/19/2004 12:27:39	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark, Thanks for replying. 1 more question. About the 15% 1st coat, 15% 2nd coat and 50% third coat. I bought the KLENK'S Tub & Tile Epoxy Pack from Home Depot. Should this be your product. What product do you have. Thanks James
Mark 10/19/2004 12:31:58	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: If you bought it at Home Depot in Canada, it is ours. If it was bought at Home Depot in the US it is made by another company that is not affiliated with our company.
waterbird 10/19/2004 13:08:49	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hmmm I called the information line about the 15%, 15% and 50% they don't even know. so confusing. I'll probaly add a 1/4 of a cup lacquer thinner and just let it spray. Thanks so much James
David 10/27/2004 21:52:02	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi: I'm refinishing an old clawfoot tub with your product and have some questions. 1)The tub had some rust stains so I used a rust remover (Dominion Sure Seal; contains phosporic acid, sodium nitrate and thiourea). The rust is gone but there is a slight bluish tinge that I cannot remove; tried TSP and Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper. Is this bluish tinge going to be a problem when I paint it? 2)Rather than use a prep kit, I sanded the tub thoroughly with 200 wet/dry. The glaze on the sides still feels pretty smooth; do I need to rough it up big time? 3)I have acetone that I use for other epoxy work (wood-epoxy boat building etc.) Any reason I can't use acetone for the prep final cleaning and brush cleanup? 4)The tub is small; the glazed area is only about 20 square feet. I prefer to mix the paint in small batches for each coat (an old epoxy working habit!) For each coat does about 1/3 litre sound about right (i.e. about 150ml each of part A & B)? Thanks!
Mark 10/28/2004 09:37:08	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: 1) Blue stains may be a problem. I would have to look back at my inorganic chemistry to figure out what compound was produced. In the meantime, you can try to remove the stain with a common household acid (vinegar, lemon juice, cola) or a household base (Ajax, Comet). 2) The sides should be deglossed - they do not need to be rough to the touch. 3) You can use acetone for final cleaning but I would not use it to clean up the brush unless you are willing to throw out the brush if it does not work properly. 4) Coverage is approximately 6 sq m/L. An average tub can be painted using 250 mL per coat.
David 10/28/2004 15:23:39	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark; Thanks for the quick response. I tried lemon juice, vinegar, borax and Fanatastick Total Bathroom (lactic acid is the active ingredient): no dice. Unless you have another suggestion I am going to try a coat of the epoxy paint. I'm mainly concerned about adhesion; I'm guessing 3 coats will cover the bluish tinge as it's very faint. Your thoughts? Thanks
David 10/28/2004 18:34:42	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Hi Mark(again)! I found the Ajax household cleanser and gave that a try as well; no luck with that either. Thanks.
Mark 10/29/2004 06:40:09	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Adhesion should not be a problem. Three coats should cover the bue tint. If the rust stain was due to a chip in the tub, you will have to use an epoxy filler to get a uniform surface. The filler will cover up the blue.
David 10/29/2004 11:07:03	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: The rust stains were surface. I did fill some other chips with epoxy and that worked well.
Marcia 10/29/2004 17:25:52	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: dear Tony: I read you conversation with Mark with interest and I am sure I will be able to use the info. I have purchased the Klenk's Swiss formula bathtub refinishing kit, prep kit and epoxy thinner but I can find no detailed instuction sheet. Would you please email me one ASAP. Thanks Marcia
Mark 10/30/2004 12:33:43	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Instructions can be found at www.swingpaints.com/directions_8100_8199.pdf
juke 11/05/2004 10:26:25	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I emailed b/f and never got a response. I would like to know if I can get insturctions for application of you product without buying the complete kit. I would like to read what is involved b/f I actually decide wether or not refinishing my tub is the way I want to go. Also does one box refinish a whole bathbut or how much does it usually take to refinish a bathtub inside and outside.
Mark 11/06/2004 23:23:11	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Instructions can be found at www.swingpaints.com/ directions_8100_8199.pdf
juke 11/07/2004 14:00:01	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I have tried your instructions by using your link to swingpaints but I can't get on that page.
Mark 11/08/2004 07:54:02	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You have to have Adobe Reader loaded on your computer to read pdf files. Go to www.adobe.com to download the program, then copy the link to your browser.
marcia 11/10/2004 00:01:17	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I have successfully completed the refinishing process on my tub and it looks so great that I am keen to maintain it. It was a lot of work because I had to scrape off the old, flaking surface. How or what can I do to make the finish more durable. I used three coats with good results and I am wondering if a fourth coat would improve the durability or would it just make it brittle. Please let me know ASAP as time is a factor with the life span of the paint. I am sure you might have a few tricks you can pass along. Thanks for your help, this forum has a ton of useful info. Marcia
Mark 11/11/2004 07:12:19	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Three coats is terrific - there is really no need to go and put on a fourth coat. The important thing about maintaining the finish is to remember that Klenk's Epoxy, as tough and durable as it is, is just a paint. Treat it as you would any other painted surface..... Avoid any product with dyes or colourants (bath oils, bath beads, etc.). Do not clean with abrasives or very harsh chemicals. Avoid cleaners with bleach. Dow Bathroom cleaner is one of the best products that we have found that really works. Unfortunately, it is not sold in Canada under that name, and the Fantastic product that was the equivalent is no longer available.
juke 11/11/2004 08:30:36	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: Thank you for your info but now everytime someone ask a question on your website it comes up on my email. Like Marcia, Braum, etc. Please take care of this matter. Thank You, Juke
Julie 11/29/2004 00:06:29	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: I did use a sponge roller applicator that was included in my kit. I used a new one with every coat as instructed. I have the "orange peel" affect. What can I do to fix this? I have put many hours into preparing the tub for painting and I am sick that it is so bumpy. Julie
Mark 11/29/2004 06:38:13	RE: Bathtub Prep and Instructions Message: You did not use our product as we do not include any rollers in our kits. Rollers will always leave an orange peel finish. If you use it to apply the finish you should tip off the finish with a paint brush to leave it smooth.
Khaled M. Yousef 12/06/2004 21:40:20	RE: Bathtub Epoxy Finish Message: I recently purchased a product called Tough as Tile Tub & Tile Brush-on Epoxy Finish. The instructions seem pretty straightforward, I’m a little weary of the product though, it just seems too simple! Has anyone used this product before? Any recommendations on the results?