Swing Paints Message Board

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Mark 5/06/2003 14:10:29	Subject: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have a brand new solid pine dining table with knots that I would like to refinish in dark stain tone. Present finish does not have any stain on it and I assume itis clear lacquered only. My objective is not only to change colour but to hide knots, too. I also have to refinish dining chairs legs (upholstery is above) in the same tone. They are made of white oak (no stain) in clear finish (lacquer or varnish). My question is what would be the best way of refinishing table and chairs ?
Mark 5/06/2003 15:14:14	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You have 2 choices. You can either strip off the existing finish and stain the wood to the desired colour, or you can use a varnish stain (Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish) right on top of the existing finish. Either way, you will never completely hide the knots. The only way to do that would be to use an opaque finish (such as paint).
Mark 5/06/2003 16:17:11	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Thank you for your advice Mark. I have used stain and clear coat on top of it before, but I have never used stained varnish and I was not sure about outcome. Is it going to leave the streaks, or it will be ugly when it starts to wear out ?? Do I have to sand lacquer lightly before first application ? I understand that I can not hide knots completely but I hope I can make them less visible on darker background.
Mark 5/06/2003 16:41:04	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You should sand the surface lightly using 150-180 grit sandpaper. Apply uniformly using a cloth. Alternatively you can use a foam brush to build the colour faster. You will only get streaks in the finish if you do not apply uniformly. Stain'n Varnish is a modified urethane varnish - extremely hard and durable. There should not be any wear on your table or chairs.
Mark 5/06/2003 16:53:19	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Thank you.
D. Fishkin 6/21/2003 14:39:34	RE: Refinishing oak table top Message: I have an oak dining room table that I hardly ever use. I'll be using it much more, so I decided to remove the accumulated wax and put a few coats of polyurethane on it. The paint store suggested paint thinner to remove the wax. Light sanding. Then the polyurethane. I've put on one coat and see WHITE has formed in the grains of the wood! WHAT CAN I DO NOW???
Mark 6/22/2003 08:54:06	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Please tell me the brand of polyurethane that you are using. Do you have any idea as to the type of wax or polish that was used in the past? Was there a finish under the wax?
Hazel 7/02/2003 16:04:05	RE: Refinishing table Message: I have a dining room table (very light white wash)that I would like to antique/wash or change to a dark brown wash look. Hope that makes sense... I still want the light wood to show, but I want the appearance of a darker wash to match a Side Board table. Any suggestions?
Mark 7/02/2003 16:33:57	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: What you want to use is a varnish stain - something that will give colour but at the same time will still be transparent. Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish is one such product.
Hazel 7/02/2003 23:03:51	RE: Refinishing table Message: Thank you Mark... I'll look for the product you recommended and I'll let you know my outcome... Actually, I'm biding time, until we sell one of our commercial properties to buy a new dining room set. Unfortunately, I opted to change our hardwood flooring, paint 3 rooms and change the flooring in our little Guest House prior to the decision to change the dining room table as well... I'm a woman, it's my prerogative--right?! I thought about staining the table in a darker wash and then having a piece of glass cut that fits the top... I'd like to find a beautiful, richly colored cloth that would overhang the top of the table and bring out the "newly painted walls".... Place the glass over the cloth -- which would rest on top the "newly stained" table... Hope it works!!!! Otherwise, I'll be searching for a new dining room set --- with my husband frowning through the entire process. Wish me luck!
Mark 7/03/2003 06:42:43	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Good luck to you....and to your husband!
Shabs 7/09/2003 19:53:50	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have a pine dining table and chairs too. It looks like there is a stain and a matte, smooth finish on it. I would like to change the color of the table to a dark walnut (or almost black) color. Could I just paint directly onto the table after cleaning it with a damp sponge? What kind of paint or stain should I use? Thanks!
Mark 7/10/2003 07:10:43	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: If you want to change the colour of the pine table and chairs, without removing the existing finish, and still see the grain of the wood, you should use Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish. It is a combination of a urethane varnish with various pigments that can be applied over any surface - unfinished wood, varnished or painted wood, plastic, metal, ceramic, masonite, etc. You should thoroughly clean the surfaces using circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner to remove any wax, polish, dirt and grime. Lightly sand the surface with 00 steel wool, medium grit synthetic pad, or 180 grit sandpaper. Apply a coat of Stain'n Varnish using a lint-free rag or cheese cloth (I prefer old nylon stockings that my wife lets me have when they are torn). Wait 24 hours, buff lightly with 0000 steel wool, extra fine synthetic pad or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of Stain'n Varnish - or, if you are happy with the colour after just one coat, use Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish as the second coat to give you the required protection against spills and stains. Apply a third coat as above if desired.
Susan 7/31/2003 10:07:07	RE: Refinishing mahogany table Message: I have successfully stripped and stained old mahogany dining table. I have tried 3 times to coat with satin oil based poly finish, but still see some brush marks and a few streaks. Help! What am I doing wrong? I am sanding between coats, but just can't get a perfect finish.
Mark 7/31/2003 10:17:36	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Could you tell me the name of the satin oil based poly finish that you are using?
Susan 7/31/2003 23:24:02	RE: Refinishing mahogany table Message: I am using Minwax oil based poly - satin.
Mark 8/01/2003 07:01:04	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You should not get brush marks or streaks when using a "good quality" oil-based polyurethane. You may want to contact the people at Minwax to help you with this particular product. Here's my technique for applying a polyurethane finish: 1. Sand your bare wood with progressive grades of sandpaper until 180-200 grit. 2. Remove all traces of dust with a tack cloth or cloth dampened in mineral spirits. 3. Using a good quality brush (never the cheapest) apply a thin coat of polyurethane over the entire table top - don't worry about going with the grain or against the grain, as long as the entire top is coated. Do not brush back and forth or you will create bubbles. 4. Holding the brush at a 45 degree angle to the table, brush out the finish from one end of the table to the other going with the grain. Do not brush back and forth or you will create bubbles. 5. Allow the finish to dry for 24 hours in a dust-free environment at low humidity and moderate temperature (15-25C). High humidity and low temperature will increase drying times. High temperatures will decrease drying times and can cause non-uniform sheens and streaks. 6. Buff the surface lightly with 400 grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool to remove any imperfections or dust. 7. Repeat the process for any subsequent coats.
rob 8/02/2003 19:52:34	plaque finish Message: Mark I am trying to cover a wood plaque that has photos, and metal engraved plates on it with a material that will enclose the photos and plates without damaging them and make a nice smooth clear finish. I'm looking at purchasing Rockhard table top varnish to cover the plaque. Is this the finish I should go with? If so, how would you recommend applying the varnish? thanks
Mark 8/03/2003 08:38:09	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You will need to put on many, many coats of any varnish to cover the photos and plates. You can achieve the same look by using one coat of Nu-Lustre-55 (www.swingpaints.com/1555.htm). One coat equals about 55 coats of varnish. You simply mix up the amount needed, pour it over the surface and it will self level. I have used it to make plaques with coins, pictures, etc. It is the same finish that is used in restaurant tables and bar tops.
Jan 8/09/2003 18:59:00	RE: refinishing veneer over pressboard table top Message: Aloha, The table top has a few buckles in the inlay veneer and some chips out of the finish. I'm sanding with super-fine steel wool for the problems and it's helping but what should I do for the chips out of the existing finish. Should I strip it completly or will varathane with tint "fill in the gaps"? Thanks, Jan
Mark 8/10/2003 18:53:38	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You should strip off the existing finish or use the Furniture Refinish to reconstitute the lacque
Ann 8/19/2003 10:42:37	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have two dressers which have been treated to delay yellowing of the wood. They are pine and have a clear lacquer. I would like to stain them to match our bedroom furniture. How do I go about removing the original lacquer? Thanks!
Mark 8/19/2003 10:50:36	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper would be the quickest and best remover for the lacquer. Apply the stripper, wait a few minutes for the lacquer to soften or bubble, and remover it. It is easiest to use a maple scraper on the flat sides to remove the finish. Once most of the finish has been removed, dip a medium finishing pad (or 00 steel wool) in some stripper and go over the surface to remove any residue. Let the piece dry and then sand prior to staining.
Kathy 8/23/2003 09:02:43	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I hope it is not too late to join this conversation... I have an oak table that has blistered in several places from water damage. The table top gets lot's of sun and appears to have dried out and the grain of the wood opened up and swelled and blistered from the sweatof cold glasses... I would like to refinish it with a product that would allow me to put glasses right on the table and not worry about blistering... Do I just sand it to get rid of the blisters and then varnish with a product close in color to the rest of the table? What would be the best product to use to give me the best protection? Polyurethan? What do you recommend... Thanks very much... Kathy
Mark 8/23/2003 10:18:39	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Are you refering to the finish that has blistered, or is the wood (veneer) blistered. If it is just the varnish, it will need to be removed before a new finish is applied. You can either strip or sand off the existing varnish. What do you mean by applying a finish "close in color to the rest of the table?" Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish or Bowling Alley Polyurethane would be ideal in this situation.
kath Cote 8/25/2003 12:13:46	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: thank you for your reponse...actually it is the vaneer that has blistered and I am trying to sand out the bubbles/blister..where the blisters were ends up being a chalky color vs the rest of the table..I am trying to sand the table evenly but do not know how to address the fact that the places where the bubbles were are whitish color...and I am not sure how much to sand the whole table to get to the point of refinishing it...would it be better to use a stripping product once I have sanded out the bubbles in the vaneer? What product should I use to apply initally and then polyurenthe to get uniform color?
Mark 8/25/2003 12:39:04	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: If the table can sand to a uniform degree of smoothness, you can use Circa 1850 Stain'n Varnish as a touch up for the white spots. You simply apply a little with a cloth and wipe gently in the direction of the grain to give a wood appearance. You can use another colour or even a marker to match the grain pattern. Either Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish or Bowling Alley Polyurethane can be applied directly on top of Stain'n Varnish.
Kath Cote 8/25/2003 13:37:00	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Mark, thanks again...I assume that if I have sanded the bubbles/blisters down, I can apply the Stain'n Varnish directly on the white spots and then do the whole table in a Stain'n Varnish...is it true that I can apply this even if I do not appear to be down to bear wood on the whole table? I am not sure what you mean by a maker to finish the grain pattern... Then apply the Bowling Alley Polyirethane to protect it...
Mark 8/25/2003 13:44:47	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Yes, you can apply Stain'n Varnish onto either unfinished or finished wood - you do not have to sand off all the varnish. Typo - should have read "marker" not "maker". A small black felt tip marker can be used to add the "grain" if necessary. Top coat with Bowling Alley Polyurethane and you will never have to worry about water damage ever again.
kacote 8/25/2003 13:58:50	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Mark, I am sold on your products...you have been a great help to me..one last thing...do you think the aerosol is ok to use to apply the poly finish or do you prefer the other...agin, my thanks, k
Mark 8/25/2003 14:08:56	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: In my humble opinion, aerosols are great when you have difficult surfaces to paint, such as chairs. I prefer the old pure bristle paint brush for applying a polyurethane on a flat surface. However, the method of application is the least important when it comes to achieving a nice finish. 1. Preparation - surface must be clean and evenly sanded. 2. Environment - make sure the room is dust free has adequate ventillation (for your health as well as for proper drying) and is a good temperature (15-25 work best). 3. Take your time. Do not rush. Apply uniformly and evenly. Avoid drips and runs but realize that all mistakes can be corrected by intercoat sandin. 4. Take pride in the fact that you did it yourself.
Keith 8/26/2003 15:01:17	RE: Refinishing old mahogany pieces Message: Expert: I have a mahogany sideboard with a curved front and a sewing cabinet in need of restoration to their former glory. These pieces may have their original stain and lacquer from 50 or more years ago. I know the basic steps-strip, sand, stain, and lacquer, but need detailed instructions including recommended products and how to handle water marks. My wood only has minor bumps and scrapes. I also need to restore the original brass pulls and hinges.
Mark 8/27/2003 15:19:53	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: The first thing that you will want to do is to remove the existing finish. Once the finish is removed you can determine the best methods for repairing scrapes and scratches, as well as removing any water marks if they have penetrated into the wood. So....Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper is the quickest and easiest to use. Just apply with a paint brush, wait a few minutes and remove the softened finish. This product will also clean up your brass pieces. Once you are done, let me know how the piece looks and if you have any particular concerns. These should be addressed before we decide on the type of finish and whether any staining, etc. are required.
lori 10/07/2003 19:03:05	refinishing a oak table top Message: I am attempting to refinish a table top It is oak and I really like the waxed table top look ive seen it done alot with pine, can i get a similar look using oak and if so how thank you all lori
Mark 10/08/2003 08:02:50	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I assume you are refering to the dull wax finish that is popular with pine reproductions. The first thing to remember is that wax offers good protection against moisture but is easily removed, absorbs oil from fingers and leaves marks, and provides no heat resistance. Therefore, I would first use a good quality varnish finish - Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane (Satin) would be great because it will protect the wood but leave a satin finish. For the reproduction look, you will want to apply a coat of beeswax - a very soft wax that does not buff to a high shine. You will have to recoat with beeswax whenever you notice a non-uniform sheen.
LORI 10/08/2003 13:24:20	RE: OAK TABLE Message: Mark thank you for the info, so i have stripped the table and sanded it now your suggesting the bowling ally finish is it a dull finish? or does putting the wax over it make it look dull. Also it sounds as though you have done this before so let me ask you this the legs and windsor chairs are black but i want the top of my table to look like pine but as i said it is oak so do you reccommend a color you like and have used before? thanks soooooo much lori
Mark 10/08/2003 14:00:06	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane is a very hard, durable finish that will protect the wood. The satin finish is like an eggshell or soft sheen finish. You should apply the beeswax to give it the final look and feel that you are trying to achieve. Depending on the tone of the existing oak, you may want to stain the top to make it look more like pine. You can either use an oil-based stain, or better yet use Stain'n Varnish. It will give you the colour AND provide the protection that you need so you will not have to put on a coat of Bowling Alley Polyurethane. Apply 2 coats of Stain'n Varnish Puritan Pine and then the wax on top.
Marty Brooks 10/09/2003 17:41:42	RE:staining new pine Message: I recently had a woodworker make me a TV cabinet out of unfinished pine and now I have to decide what to do. I have several very old pine pieces that appear to just be waxed...but they have a very amber color with a lot of character. How do I achieve that look on new pine? The pine is "furniture grade pine", whatever that means. Thanks!
Phil 10/10/2003 01:35:08	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: To get old look on pine use bowling alley polyurethane, no stain. The polyurethane makes it look amber. Then put it in your home where there is a lot of sun and let the sun darken it. It'll take a few years to match the other pieces.
lori 10/10/2003 12:54:47	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: hi I think i really want to wax my kithchen table it has been stripped and is ready to go can you reccommend a dark wax that would be good with oak I real lize all the negatives that go e=with waxing but i dont think i would be happy with any other finish unless it was just as dull as a wax finish. thanks lori
Mark 10/11/2003 00:24:23	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I don't think you will be happy with just a wax on your kitchen table - one sweating glass in the summer or hot plate will require you to resand the table top. You should use a protective varnish, like Bowling Alley Polyurethane or Antique Paste Varnish. You can then buff the table with 00 steel wool to dull the finish. If you want to darken the wood, stain it prior to applying the varnish. You can always apply a wax on top of the varnish.
Mark 10/11/2003 00:27:07	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I don't think you will be happy with just a wax on your kitchen table - one sweating glass in the summer or hot plate will require you to resand the table top. You should use a protective varnish, like Bowling Alley Polyurethane or Antique Paste Varnish. You can then buff the table with 00 steel wool to dull the finish. If you want to darken the wood, stain it prior to applying the varnish. You can always apply a wax on top of the varnish.
lori 10/11/2003 14:32:10	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: what will applying wax on top of varnish do ? thanks lori,
lori kleem 10/11/2003 15:32:42	RE: Refinishing pine table Message: hi i have taken your advice and purchased some antique paste varnish to finish my pine top table i also bought the conditioner good idea or not? it sounded like one my question is ...the stain colors on the web site are non existant how can i look at them? I want a true brown no red or yellows in there a warm brown more of a med to dark any suggestions thanks a ton lori
Mary Ann 10/12/2003 00:08:29	Vaneer Top Dresser Message: I want to paint an older dresser but the top has a vaneer finish (shiney and smooth) Is there some type of paint or bonding agent I can use to help the paint adhere without coming off very easily?
greg 10/12/2003 17:30:57	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I too was refinishing a pine table I took a dark stain that was on it off by sanding it with several grits of sandpaper. Then treated it with linseed oil thinking it looked very nice however now I am wondering if this will stain easy, and will I have to sand again if I want to apply a polyurethane?
Mark 10/13/2003 08:20:39	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Lori, Thanks for the order. The Wood Conditioner will give you a more even colour on the pine table top. I will send you off a colour card for the Wood Stain with your order so that you can get a better idea of the tone.
Mark 10/13/2003 08:25:37	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Mary Ann - In order to apply your paint you should first clean the surface thorough with TSP and water. It is best to also scuff up the surface with sandpaper (fine grit) to give it some grip.
Mark 10/13/2003 08:50:49	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Greg - Linseed oil will provide a moderate amount of protection from moisture, but will not protect from standing water or heat. You can apply an oil based polyurethane on top of the linseed oil finish without having to sand it off. Because linseed oil takes so long to cure, I would wait a full week at temperatures of 20C (70F) or higher and low humidity prior to applying the polyurethane.
Mary Ann 10/13/2003 17:05:20	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Ok, I don't mean to sound silly, but what is TSC?
Mary Ann 10/13/2003 17:09:15	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Oops, TSP??? Lol
Mark 10/13/2003 19:25:31	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a powder that when dissolved into warm water is the cleaner of choice prior to painting. It can be bought at any paint or hardware store.
Cricket 10/15/2003 15:12:49	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have a pine top kitchen table that I purchased from a furniture store within the last 5 years. I would like to restain the table a darker color. A friend of my told me that it probably has either a catalized (spelling?) varnish on it. This can not be removed, only painted over with a waterbase product. Do you know if this is true? What do you recommend?
Mark 10/15/2003 16:25:36	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You can certainly strip off a catalyzed varnish, if that is what you want to do. You can either strip off the existing coating and directly stain the wood, or you can use a product like Stain'n Varnish right on top of the existing varnish. The choice is yours.

teresa 10/23/2003 01:59:27	RE: refinishing oak furniture with veneer finish Message: I have an oak bedroom suite that has a veneer finish. I want the surface to be a little darker and look new. Should I sand or just try to clean it up?
teresa 10/23/2003 02:03:08	RE: refinishing oak furniture with veneer finish Message: I have an oak bedroom suite that has a veneer finish. I want the surface to be a little darker and look new. Should I sand or just try to clean it up?
teresa 10/23/2003 09:19:47	RE: Oak bedroom suite with veneer Message: A friend asked me to refinish her bedroom suite and it has a veneer finish. The suite is in good condition but she wants it to look new and a little darker. Can you sand and stain veneer? I realize that veneer is only a thin layer and if sanded, careful attention will have to be taken. I really don't know which way to go. Could you give me some advice, please.
kim 12/28/2003 20:50:13	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Hi, I am inquiring about the best way to remove a dark stain (burgandy)from a solid pine table. I intend to restain the table with a walnut-like stain. I am assuming sanding will be the best and most successful option. However, I was wondering if I should also be using a specific stain remover prior to sanding, in conjunction with sanding. This is my first restoration project. I would greatly appreciate any tips, advice and feedback. Thanks in advance.
Mark 12/29/2003 10:55:24	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Is the burgundy stain in the wood or part of the finish? Is there a finish on the pine table? Sanding will always work, but depending on whether the stain is part of the finish or not, you may have some other options, such as stripping or bleaching.
Brian 1/17/2004 23:23:34	Runs in polyurethane Message: I'm in the process of finishing up some cabinets. I have been spraying my polyurethane. I have noticed a few runs in a few of the sides. I was wondering what is the best way to get rid of these runs. thanks for the help, Brian
Mark 1/19/2004 08:28:16	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: To get rid of the runs in the future you should spray on a much thinner coat. To remove the runs, wait at least 24 hours for the polyurethane to harden and sand with 200 grit sandpaper.
Gina 1/28/2004 16:12:01	Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets Message: I have painted my kitchen cabinets with a latex paint and want to apply a clear topcoat for a more durable finish. What do you recommend? Is acrylic urethane (Kel-thane II by kelly moore) a good choice or should I used a polyurethane or some other product? Can you advise durability and ease of application for your recommendation? Thanks much!
Mark 1/28/2004 18:31:51	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: The best product for durability and clarity would be Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane. Acrylic urethanes are not scrubbable and can crack. You can use a water-based polyurethane if you prefer. All these finishes apply with a brush. Oil-based finishes have a longer open time and are easier to apply with no lap marks as compared to water-based finishes. Since your cabinets are relatively small surfaces either one would work well.
Gina 2/05/2004 14:59:26	RE: Kitchen Cabinets Message: Thanks for your advice on the clear finish over my latex paint. Is the oil based polyurethane more durable/water resistant than the water based one?
Mark 2/05/2004 15:11:19	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Yes, the oil-based polyurethanes are both more durable and more water resistant. However, great strides are being made in water borne technology and in a few years the differences should be a lot less.
Angie 3/11/2004 16:14:11	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: ok, I know nothing about refinshing an oak table, so here is ny situation. I have a light oak table with water spots,and small spots of black paint. I was told to strip it, sand it, but what do I put on my top, so that is will still have protection and have the same light color? thanks
Mark 3/11/2004 16:56:34	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: If the water spots are in the finish (white spots or rings) you can simply buff out the finish using Liquid Pumice Stone to remove the spots. If the water spots are in the wood (oak will turn black) you will have to strip off the finish and either sand or bleach out the black stain. Oxalic acid is the bleach of choice for this type of stain. The most durable, non-yellowing product to use would be Bowling Alley Polyurethane. It will provide the most protection (no longer have to worry about water stains) and will stay quite clear over time.
angie 3/13/2004 11:07:09	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Thanks alot. angie
Chuck 3/20/2004 08:39:36	RE: Finishing a Cedar Table Top Message: I just finished making a Cedar table top that is 1 1/4 thick by 32" x 48". I still have to sand it and want to clear coat it. The table will be used to eat at in a Kitchen. What kind of coating should I use on the top? I was thinking about using Rockhard Table Top Varnish. Would this be a good choice and would two coats be enough. This is my first attempt at a project like this. Thank You!
Mark 3/20/2004 19:42:17	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have never used the product. I would recommend 3 coats for maximum protection.
Niki 4/04/2004 12:55:18	refinishing top of pine coffee table Message: I have a pine coffee table with a number of surface scratches on it. The table was stained by the manufacturers and recieved a coat of clear varathane by me. I have sanded down the top of the table but don't want to have to sand down the rest of the table since the rest of the table is fine. Since I have access to the original stain applied, is it possible to just restain and re-varathane the top of the table without touching the rest?
Mark 4/05/2004 08:08:08	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: As long as the finish has been completely removed during sanding you can apply a stain. If some finish remains the stain will not penetrate in those areas. It is not necessary to refinish the entire table - just doing the top is fine. You may notice that the colour will not match up for a while as the varathane has probably yellowed quite a bit over the years.
Danielle 4/18/2004 07:18:55	RE: Taking a veneer off Message: I have just bought a painted cupboard which on starting to strip have realised that has a veneer. The top came off really easily but I am having problems with the rest of it. What is the best way to go about stripping it?
Mark 4/19/2004 07:13:43	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: The best way to strip small pieces of furniture is to put the piece into a stripping tray. You can build one by placing a plastic drop cloth into carboard or wooden box. The entire piece, or a section of it, can remain in the tray. You can pour the stripper directly into the traqy and all the paint that falls off will drop into the tray. Apply the stripper and allow it to remain on the surface until the paint has bubbled or melted. Depending on the finish, you may have to reapply the stripper several times to ensure it remains wet on the surface. Use a paint brush to remove the softened finish. If some of the finish is tough to remove, use a wooden scraper to gently dislodge the paint. After most of the finish has been removed, use a synthetic pad dipped in stripper to remove any residue.
Erica 4/19/2004 23:54:41	I don't know where to begin Message: I have an old oak dining table that I'd like to refinish and stain a darker mahogany color, But I don't know where to begin. Please help, as any information would be greatly appreciated! (even a reference to a website would be helpful)
Mark 4/20/2004 06:33:33	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: The first step is to remove the finish. You can use any of the Circa 1850 strippers - the "choose the right stripper" chart can help. After stripping you must sand the wood to reopen the wood pores and present a uniform surface for the stain. You can either use a straight stain or a stain-varnish combination.
anne 4/29/2004 09:01:26	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Hi-I have sanded an old pine table for my kitchen-I want the mellow light golden tones-not the red or walnut tones- I thought I could get this by just waxing with beeswax ( I thought that is what the antiques I see are finished with-but when I applied this the reds and wood grains started to show up-so I rubbed it with a wet cloth and it turned light again-how can I seal the table and still keep the golden light tones I want-Sorry so long to ask question!!Anne
Mark 4/29/2004 09:32:23	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Dry, sanded wood will look different from wood that has a finish. The wood will change colour as a result of both the solvent and the actual finish (varnish, lacquer, etc). In order to see the effect of the solvent, wipe the surface lightly with water. Notice the colour change. Repeat by wiping with mineral spirits. Both solvents will bring out the colour of the wood, but the mineral spirits tends to deepen the tone and add wonderful highlights. After you have decided which solvent gives the colour you desire, find a good quality varnish that does not yellow (such as Bowling Alley Polyurethane). Apply a minimum of 2 coats as a kitchen table will have to put up with a lot of spills. You can apply a wax as the final step to get a softer feel to the table.
bonnie jennings 6/04/2004 06:12:05	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I stripped my dining room furniture using circa 1850 furniture refinsher and then applied a golden oak stain and then polyurethane. The chairs and table look great but when I started to polyurethane the Hutch it left white streaks. I left the Hutch in the garage for a week and it's been raining alot but no water has gotten on it.What do I do now? Please help
Mark 6/04/2004 06:20:29	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: What stain and polyurethane were used? Are you certain you used Furniture Refinisher? If so, please describe your procedure.
Catherine Gordon 6/22/2004 21:03:54	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have white marks on pine dinning room table from hot items what do I do to get them out??
Mark 6/23/2004 08:42:10	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You can use Terra Nova Liquid Pumice Stone to remove the white rings.
Sharon 7/06/2004 11:10:47	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have a 35 yr old danish modern oak dining table that has only been oiled over the years. I would like to maintain the oil-only finish. There are some rings (glasses/moisture) and also some small lines where the wood is rough to the touch (from ??) These flaws are visible when looking at the table top from specific angles in specific lighting conditions. Can these flaws be removed without sanding/oiling the entire table?
Mark 7/06/2004 13:19:43	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Do you have any idea as to what the exact name of the product is that you have been using to oil the table?
Sharon 7/06/2004 14:55:24	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Yes - the first many years I used Danica furniture oil (we bought the set from Danica furniture - now out of business I think) and for the last several years I have been using Old English lemon oil furniture polish. Thanks!
Mark 7/06/2004 15:10:10	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Hmmm. Not quite sure what Danica Furniture Oil would be... I would therefore recommend that you clean the surface with Circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner to remove any old polish, dirt, etc. You may want to give the piece a very light sanding with 200 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface. You can then apply with a cloth Circa 1850 Antique Danish Oil. It should bring back the shine and protect the surface from water marks and rings.
Sharon Price 7/07/2004 10:31:53	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Thanks for the info. I went to get your recommended items at my local Home Depots (Glendale and North Hollywood CA) and neither of them have your products. Any other locations close to Glendale CA (91208 zipcode)? Thanks!
Mark 7/07/2004 10:47:13	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: How about our new store located in Los Angeles? 612 S. La Brea Ave. Los Angeles, California 90036 USA Tel. 323.816.3041 Call first for store hours.
Donna Oilman 8/08/2004 20:14:28	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have a dining room set with a lacquer finish. The lacquer has yellowed. Is there anything I can do to correct this? Thanks
Mark 8/09/2004 07:15:40	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have never heard of a lacquer yellowing. Are you sure it is not a varnish? Regardless, the only solution would be to strip off the finish using one of the Circa 1850 strippers (I prefer Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper) and apply a clear, non-yellowing finish, such as Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane.
Pierre Montpetit 8/21/2004 16:17:31	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I have a brand new pine table which, after modifing, I noticed it had a couple of black spots. In your correspondance you mention oxalic acid to remove spots from oak, would this be good for pine, if not what would? Is there a brand name I should look for? Where do I find it, I've asked for advice in hardware stores to no avail. Thanks Pierre
Mark 8/21/2004 17:50:05	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Each stain is different, so oxalic acid (a generic powder found at woodworking stores) may or may not work on your black spot on pine. In fact, the black spots may just be part of the wood.
Patricia 8/31/2004 13:10:05	Re: Pine chairs becoming gummy Message: I have pine ladder back chairs. They have a satin finish on them. The problem is that knobs become very gummy and sticky. Several years ago I tried to clean them with tsp but it didn't help so I used a water based satin finish varnish and it seemed to remedy the problem. Now my bigger problem is that they became really gummy again and so I tried to clean them with Circa furniture cleaner- then I applied Durathane-polyurethane clear gloss finish by Minwax- (are you cringing yet) The chairs looked great. They have a glossy finish which I really like BUT they are not drying. So now I am in a real pickle. Can you help me? (I need to confess that I stripped one chair today using 3M Safest Stripper. I would prefer a wipe off kind of stripper- the 3M needs scraping.) Thank you for any advice you can offer. Patricia
Mark 8/31/2004 15:06:40	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Minwax - OUCH! 3M - OUCH! OUCH! Get yourself a can of good old Canadian-made Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper. Apply it with a brush, allow it to sit on the surface for a few minutes until the finish softens, and use the brush to remove the coating. If you cut the brush to about 2 inches you will find that it is stiff enough to completely remove the softened finish. Use 000 steel wool or synthetic pad to remove any residue. You may want to try one of our finishes later...just to make me feel good. :-)
Patricia 8/31/2004 16:05:20	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Thank-you so very much for your quick reply. I will follow your advice and post as soon as I get these chairs stripped. Many thanks, Pat
Patricia 9/02/2004 18:27:56	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Hi again. I've stripped my pine chairs using Circa 1850 furniture stripper- it worked great. Thanks for the advice- now what do I do? I bought the chairs (new) 20 years ago. They had a satin factory finish on them. The only problem I had with them was that the knobs got rather tacky or gummy. The rest of the diningroom furniture- buffet, hutch and table were also purchased 20 years ago- but they had been in a gift shop and were used for a display and they have mellowed to a golden colour. The stripped chairs are a lighter colour now and I'm wondering if I should stain them, or just use a finish (Circa brand of course ;o) Thank you again for your help. Pat
Mark 9/03/2004 09:08:25	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: I would not go through the added trouble of staining the chairs as the oak will turn that golden colour in a few months time. Also, most oil-based varnishes are slightly amber to begin with.
rjones 9/04/2004 22:30:36	RE: Refinishing maple table and chairs Message: I am refinishing a drop leaf table. I think it could be maple. I think it is from the 50's. It has stripped very well. I have also done one chair. I wanted to stain it black with a soft sheen to it. I bought a little can of Miniwax Ebony stain. I tried it on one of the chairs and the stain bubbles and doesn't penetrate very well and it still shows the brown wood through the black which I don't like. What can I do to over ride the brown color? Also what finish should I use as it will be used as a kitchen table? Thankss
Jan 9/06/2004 02:52:17	Re-doing a mess of already stained cupboard fronts Message: we purchased birch wood , cut out the cupboard fronts and proceeded to stain and varnish them, as it turns out they are streaky and a mess and some of them have turned with white streaks in them , they look awful and have to be redone , what is the bet procedure for removing the old stain and varnish , and starting over to try and make these cupboard doors half way decent to look at thanks for your help
Mark 9/07/2004 06:44:04	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You will have a lot of trouble trying to stain maple to a dark black. You will have a lot better success using Stain'n Varnish as it does not need to penetrate into the wood to provide the colour. You will not have to apply any other finish on top of Stain'n Varnish in order to protect your kitchen table from spills or hot plates.
Mark 9/07/2004 06:49:30	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Just like rjones with the maple table and chairs, you will find that Stain'n Varnish does a nicer job of staining and finishing birch. At this point, I would recommend you try to sand off what you have applied. If there are a lot of grooves, you will have to strip off the finish. Some of the stain may come off during stripping. If not, you will have to use a chemical bleach to remove the stain. Before going through all that, you may try to apply Stain'n Varnish directly over your existing finish.
Claire 9/21/2004 15:06:43	RE: Help! Maple Table Disaster Message: My 11-year-old daughter decided to take her nail polish off on my brand new Maple table. There are numerous acetate stains. How can I take these out without having to refinishing the whole table top!
Mark 9/21/2004 16:09:07	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You can take them out without having to refinish the whole table top by getting your daughter to do the work......
ann 9/28/2004 14:07:46	refinishing oak dining room table Message: hi - i recently purchased an oak (looks like real oak) dining room set, table, 6 chairs, china/buffet and love it. Its by Broyhill. Everything looked good EXCEPT the top of the table. I cannot tell you how many products i have bought to try and bring back the lustre - without having any success i must add. The surface appears dull, scratchy, worn. I recently bought Restore a Finish in oak but honestly i was quite disappointed as to the outcome. Now im going to try steel wooling again for the 50th time, try using an oak stain and then polyurethane it. Im really getting quite disgusted and if i could financially afford to have someone come pick it up and do it professionally i would, however, my last chance is to see if this works. Can you offer any advice. Thanks
Mark 9/28/2004 15:49:42	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Where are you located? We could use a piece to demo at our upcoming wood show in Philadelphia.
ann 9/29/2004 06:06:14	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Hi and thanks for getting back to me. I live in staten island, NY and as I mentioned in my post above, I purchased Minwax polyurethane and must say im quite pleased with the outcome, altho according to directions on the can it says after i polyuretane, to sand it which im a little reluctant as i don't want to ruin it altho it does not feel as smooth as the rest of the pieces but a great improvement from what the top looked like and its really such a beautiful set
Phillip D. 9/29/2004 21:33:57	RE: Refinishing Oak table Top Message: Hi We purchased an oak table 10years ago from the Amish. Natural finish. The surface is stained, dull,& kind of "soft". It dosen't repel liqued well... Time to refinish. I have no experience in this however I'm inclined to purchase a quality orbital sander, and sand down to "new wood". 1) Is this what should be done? 2) What is the best natural finish? Polyurethane? Are there diffrent types? 3) Anything I'm missing? THANKS!
Mark 9/30/2004 10:31:41	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Sanding is one way to go, but you will be taking off the top layer of wood and along with the that the beautiful patina. A chemical stripper, like Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper, will remove the finish and not harm the wood, raise the grain or change the patina. The type of finish to use will depend on 3 very important criteria: how much protection do you require (i.e., kitchen table vs. nightstand), what is the look and feel you are hoping to achieve, and the ease of application (brush vs. rag). Once you have answered those questions you can narrow the field.
Phillip D. 9/30/2004 18:58:27	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Hi Mark, It's a kitchen table top with 3 leafs a total 8'long, we'd prefer a natural satin finish. I'm forced to work outside so faster method of finishing would be best as long as I would not have to compromise on the end results. THANKS!!!
Mark 9/30/2004 19:44:20	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Kitchen tables require the most protection - so only a polyurethane or urethane varnish will do. You can either go with a brush on (such as Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane) or a wipe on finish (such as Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish). Both will provide you the protection from water, alcohol and heat that you will need. For a satin finish, you can use Bowling Alley Polyurethane in satin. If you decide to go with Antique Paste Varnish, you may want to do a buff sanding after the final coat with 400 sandpaper to decrease the shine.
Meg 10/11/2004 14:17:37	Solid oak table Message: Hello We are in the process of refinishing a solid oak dining room table ... It will be VERY well used by our family of nine and we were interested to know what the "ultimate" finish would be to put on it to protect it from typical use and abuse. I see the Bowling Alley Polyurethane recommended often in previous postings here. How does this compare to your standard polyeurethane finishes. I am interested in a satin finish rather than a high-shine, glossy look. Our main concern is durability and I would like to be able to set things on the table without having to be excessively concerned about water marks, etc. Any advice you could offer would be very much appreciated! Meg
Mark 10/11/2004 14:51:03	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Circa 1850 Bowling Alley Polyurethane combines the ultimate in durability and protection with the convenience of quick drying and the beauty of non-yellowing. Bowling Alley Polyurethane is available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss sheens. You can see the end result at www.treespirittables.com/design.html Dean is a big fan of our finish and uses it exclusively. He writes, "All finishing work on furniture is done by hand. There is no spraying and all of my tables leave the shop with a rock hard finish that will not water spot even after days of leaving a glass of liquid on them. In addition, they are resistant to heat and alcoholic beverages and all this without the polyurethane look."
sam 12/30/2004 14:28:08	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: i am trying to achieve the chinese black/brown matte or satin wedding cabinent look. is this achieved with many layers of stain (jacobean or ebony miniwax), or Stain'n Varnish in a close to black color? please help i have used 3 diff. miniwax colors and even after 4 coats...it isn't what i am looking for. thanks samantha
Mark 12/30/2004 17:49:04	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You will have a lot more success using Stain'n Varnish as it more closely resembles the black lacquer used in oriental furniture.
SAMANTHA 12/31/2004 03:30:25	WHERE CAN I GET IT Message: WHERE CAN I FIND THIS STAIN AND VARNISH....IS THERE A SPECIFIC COLOR OR NUMBER, HOW MANY COATS, AND WHAT ARE THE STEPS THAT YOU SUGGEST TO ACHIEVING THIS. PLEASE STEP BY STEP....HOW DO I APPLY THIS? DO I NEED TO SAND IN BETWEEN, AND DO I NEED TO SEAL IT AFTER. THANK YOU FOR SUCH A QUICK REPONSE. BTW I LIVE IN FLORIDA....I DON'T THINK HOME DEPOT HAS IT.
Mark 12/31/2004 07:50:35	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: You will have to order from the internet as there are no retailers in FL that carry Stain'n Varnish. You can see the colours at www.swingpaints.com/color_swatches.htm Tou can read the directions at www.swingpaints.com/770_799.htm Or you can request a brochure from this site and all the colours and information will be mailed to you
Carolyne 1/19/2005 23:33:53	Changing Color of Pine Armoire Message: We had a pine Armoire built and unfortunately the stained result came out too dark (a bit too much brown and red). We were hoping for more of a yellow or honey color. The Armoire has also been waxed. Is there a way to lighten the color without sanding off the existing stain? Thanks, Stephen
Christian 2/06/2005 18:03:10	Clear gloss finish on raw mahogany Message: I need some help please. I have a modest bungalow from the mid 60's. All the casings, baseboards, trim are mahogany. All the hollow core doors are mohogany also. I really like the look and have been stripping it down or replacing where necessary. I love how the grain is revealed when a gloss topcoat is applied directly over the raw mahogany (without any filler). I have tried laquer, oil basedpoly and water based poly but I can't get a smooth consistent finish. I have heard that there's just too much open grain in mahogany to allow for a smooth finish without prefilling. Is that true? What do I have to do to get the look I want? There must be one simple product that can accomplish this?
Mark 2/07/2005 07:15:11	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: If you like the smooth filled look of mahogany, you are going to have to fill the pores. You can accomplish this by applying a first coat of Tung Oil (the best finish to highlight the colour of the wood) with some 400 grit sandpaper. Get a good slurry going so that the tiny wood shavings from the sanding will get incorporated into the pores. Wipe off the excess finish and let dry. After 24 hours you can apply a top coat of any gloss finish that you desire.
Christian 2/07/2005 09:42:32	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: Thanks Mark. You're suggestion is certainly do-able. I'm curious to try it. I'm just wondering if there's a simpler one product finish. When the builders made this place, I doubt they went to that kind of trouble or labour. Maybe they did? Would you know how it was most likely done originally? Something was used but it doesn't look particularly good. It really cheapens the look of the wood in my opinion.
Mark 2/07/2005 09:48:17	RE: Refinishing pine table and oak chairs Message: If the pores were filled they used a conventional pore filler (glorified spackle).