Message de Forum
| De | Message |
| geoff Jan 26, 2006 00:14:46 | Klenks epoxy Hi I just reglazed my tub and surrounding wall tiles with Klenks and I liked the results. The question I have is, I now want to do the floor in the bathroom but I only have the one bathroom in the apt and am wondering if i still have to wait 5 days, if it doesnt get any water on it during the cure time? |
| Neil Jan 26, 2006 22:14:37 | RE: Klenks epoxy Follow the instructions. |
| geoff Jan 26, 2006 23:23:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy In the Klenks set that I have there is nothing about the dry time for the floors just for the tub/ sink "which get wet" and which is 5-7 days and I would like to use the toilet and not move out for 5 days. If after it dried but not cured could I lightly use it, or put some covering down where I walked as long as water never got on it? |
| Mark Jan 27, 2006 07:56:06 | RE: Klenks epoxy I would wait 24 hours prior to walking on the painted surface. Wear socks and tread lightly during the first few days. |
| geoff Jan 27, 2006 14:52:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thank you for the quick response, I prepped the floor last night and am going to apply it tonight so this information is timed perfectly. Thank you, Geoff |
| MARV WORTHINGTON Mar 06, 2006 13:17:17 | RE: Klenks epoxy i have three coats on with klenks epoxy but is it to late to get rid of the bubbles that have formed on the tub and if so how do i do it |
| Mark Mar 06, 2006 14:50:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy Are these paint bubbles or small circles where the paint has not adhered (fish eyes)? |
| MARV Mar 06, 2006 20:13:26 | RE: Klenks epoxy more like fish eyes |
| Mark Mar 06, 2006 23:46:45 | RE: Klenks epoxy You will have to get some fish eye eliminator and add 2 or 3 drops to the epoxy prior to applying another coat. Fish eye eliminator can be found at places that sell industrial or automotive finishes. |
| DV Sep 25, 2006 12:20:37 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have a 30 year old shower stall that is tiled on all sides including the floor. Paint will not stick to the tile, will Klenks? Thanks DV |
| Eric Sep 27, 2006 17:39:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy DV, Klenk's Epoxy Enamel is an extremely hard and durable two- component epoxy for consumer and professional use. It is specially designed to restore the finish on tubs, sinks, toilets, ceramic wall tiles, and appliances. Klenk's Epoxy Enamel can be used on any hard, solvent-resistant surface, such as ceramic, metal, stone, marble, melamine, fiberglass, etc. Do not use on plastic or imitation marble, stove tops ranges, or other surfaces subject to excessive heat. Make sure to purchase the Klenk's Prep Kit and Klenk's Epoxy Thinner to properly complete your project. Read and follow all intstructions carefully. Good luck. |
| Isabelle Dec 05, 2006 11:09:57 | RE: Klenks epoxy J'ai acheté la trousse de nettoyage Klenk's pour tuiles et baignoires mais il n'y a pas d'instruction dans la boite. Où puis-je les obtenir? J'ai aussi acheté la trousse Klenk's epoxy enamel Swiss Formula, et au Réno dépot on m'a dit que je pouvais le mettre sur mon lavabo en faux marbre, est-ce exact? Merci |
| susan Dec 05, 2006 11:46:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy I refinished a tub following the directions closely. It dried for over a week prior to use. Within three weeks it started to peel on the bottom. The peeling has gotten worse and is starting in other areas of the tub. What is wrong? |
| Eric Dec 05, 2006 20:27:24 | RE: Klenks epoxy Isabelle, Les instructions pour la trousse de nettoyage sont sur la boite elle- même. Les instructions pour le nettoyage fait partie aussi aux instructions inclus dans la trousse Email Epoxy Klenk's. Au sujet du FAUX MARBRE, Il est prudent de ne pas utiliser ce produit sur cette surface - l'Email Epoxy Klenk's peut l'abîmer |
| Eric Dec 05, 2006 20:28:51 | RE: Klenks epoxy Susan, The peeling that you are experiencing seems to indicate that the surface was not properly prepared prior to painting. Please describe the process you used so that we might be able to further help you out. Sorry that the experience has not worked out as originally planned. |
| susan Dec 13, 2006 13:42:06 | RE: Klenks epoxy re:refinnishing tub. It is an old cast iron tub. I followed all directions paying particular attention to the edges where silicone had been and around the drain. The project took in excess of 8 hours. I used only the recommended product. Still there was major peeling in the centre of the bottom of the tub, despite giving more than the recommended drying time. I used only two coats of epoxy and did have a few fish eyes. What was the problem? |
| Neil Dec 13, 2006 23:17:21 | RE: Klenks epoxy Fish eye would indicate that your brush came into contact with the silicone caulking. Prepping a bath tub is difficult. You can follow all the steps and it is possible that the tub is still not adequately prepared for painting. The area where the paint is lifting may still be dirty or is not de-glossed properly. |
| susan Dec 14, 2006 12:47:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy Your forum has been of no help in deciding if it is worth my time to try again to refinnish my tub. I have followed all instructions to the letter and still had problems. It has been a complete waste of my time. |
| Mark Dec 15, 2006 08:31:36 | RE: Klenks epoxy Susan, The fact that you "did have a few fish eyes" and had "major peeling in the centre of the bottom of the tub" is an indication that the surface was not properly prepared prior to apply the paint. At this point, with the major peeling, your only option is to remove the entire coating from the tub surface. You can accomplish this using Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. Once the paint has been removed, you can decide if you want to repaint the tub or not. However, you will experience the same problems as before if you do not clean and prepare the surface. |
| Kent Feb 19, 2007 15:04:14 | Klenks and Tub Surround Hello, we have an old yellow tub with a tub surround, will Klenk's work on the tub surround? Same procedure? Thanks |
| Mark Feb 19, 2007 17:50:17 | RE: Klenks epoxy If the tub surround is plastic, you will want to do a test using the Epoxy Thinner to ensure that the paint will not melt the plastic. |
| Kent Feb 20, 2007 11:38:46 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks for the reply, I will try that. |
| Jim Nelan Mar 12, 2007 15:39:56 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hello, I have a double porcelain kitchen sink that is about 90 yrs. old. It had been painted before I purchased the house and the paint is chipped and some has peeled especially at the bottom. If I plan to refinish it with Klenk's Tub & tile epoxy do I need to remove all of the old paint (even in the areas where it is well adhered), or can I simply feather out the bad areas and then follow the cleaning directions. The instructions do not say if I can apply this over other finishes or if it can only be used othe porcelain itself. Having read the problems that others have had above I do not want to do all the work to have it come out poorly. Thanks... Jim N |
| Jim Mar 12, 2007 16:18:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi again, A follow up/ addition to my question above. I called Klenk's and the customer relations person said (not sounding very sure or knowing why) that Klenk's sink paint is not recomended for kitchen sinks. The sink refinishing text states that when cured Klenk's is non-toxic and lead free. Since I have to refinish this sink, along with my prior question regarding removal of old paint , is there some product other than Klenk's that is made for refinishing Kitchen sinks? Thanks.. Jim |
| Jim N Mar 12, 2007 20:09:30 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hello again, After posting my question above I called the Klenk's Manufacturer and spoke with someone in customer relations but have to admit that she sounded unsure and was reading me the instructions.Then she said that the sink epoxy was not recommended for kitchen sinks. The product information, however, states that when cured the epoxy paint is non-toxic and lead free. The question is does anyone know any sound reason why I should not use it for my intended purpose and if not then are there alternative suggestions.Thanks.. Jim N |
| Mark Mar 13, 2007 06:54:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy Jim, Did you call Klenk's in the US or Canada? |
| Jim N Mar 13, 2007 14:57:03 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi Mark, I called a US Phone number for Klenks. |
| Mark Mar 13, 2007 15:03:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy That may be the problem. Swing Paints manufactures Klenk's Epoxy in Canada. We are not affiliated with the US company. The main reason I may not recommend Klenk's Epoxy for use in a KITCHEN sink is that the finish may become stained upon contact with certain foods or cleansers. |
| Ted Walberg Mar 23, 2007 19:07:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy I want to spray Klink's Epoxy, what spray gun should be used, do I thin paint, air pressure to use. |
| Dan Apr 09, 2007 17:28:24 | RE: Klenks epoxy same questin as ted walberg on 23/03/07 also what is the reason behind the six X six sqares while painting????? |
| Pamela Walker Apr 15, 2007 15:17:09 | RE: Klenks epoxy I used the product, but it tore when we put our drain kit back in place, what is the best way to make repairs after refinishing the tub with epoxy? Do I need to remove the entire epoxy finish and start over or can I patch it? |
| Mark Apr 16, 2007 08:40:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy Patching is not recommended if the surface will be below the water line. |
| Craig Jul 10, 2007 22:14:09 | RE: Klenks epoxy As a newcomer to the Klenks product, what is the recommended prep for a porcelain bath tub and a ceramic tile shower stall? The ceramic tiles cover the bottom, sides and ceiling of the shower stall. |
| Mark Jul 11, 2007 09:08:03 | RE: Klenks epoxy Use the Klenks Prep Kit and follow the directions in the instruction sheet for the paint. |
| Bonnie Jul 25, 2007 23:55:07 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have a sink counter combination the counter is 48" long. I don't know what the sink and counter are made of as we did not buy them. How would I go about finding out what it is made of? The sink has a lot of crack like marks on the surface. If I'm able to use this product on the bowl of the sink would I have to do any special preperation before I begin? Could this product be used on the whole surface(counter and sink )? |
| Bonnie Jul 26, 2007 00:06:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have a few questions about using this on tiles. I have harvest gold tiles on about 65%of a bathroom that is 11x7. The tiles are 41/4 x41/4, that's a lot of tiles. What is recomended to remove the grout as the lines are very small in a lot af areas. I also have a tub that is harvest gold. Is it best to do the tiles and the tub at the same time or not? Is this produst really stronge? If so how long does it take to get rid of the smell. I have only one bathroom so I would like to do every thing at once if the smell is strong. thanks for your help. |
| Neil Jul 26, 2007 08:14:05 | RE: Klenks epoxy If the tub has been repainted with anything other than epoxy paint you will have to remove it with paint stripper. Renenber to block off the pipes. If the cracks and or chips are not repaired they will show through. To fix this you can either use an epoxy filler to smooth out the surface (over apply then sand down), or you can apply directly over the surface and hope that the finish is thick enough to level it out. The cracks maybe just some old paint that need to be removed. The entire process will take approx 5-6 days until you can use your tub again. Follow the instructions. I am not sure what is the best way to do the grout removal. |
| bonnie Jul 26, 2007 09:16:12 | RE: Klenks epoxy The tub is the original harvest gold that it came in as new as is the tiles. There is no old paint on the tub or the sink. I think that you are right about the filler that makes sence. From what I have read that the product is not very thick and the cracks would show through. thank you for you advice. I gives me an idea as to what I would be getting my self into. Bonnie P.S. How strong is the smell, would it go through the house?? thanks |
| Neil Jul 26, 2007 09:30:18 | RE: Klenks epoxy The smell is strong. |
| Cary Aug 01, 2007 22:13:00 | RE: Klenks epoxy i used the Klenks Tub, Tile, and Sink refinishing kit on my tub. well, the finish looks terrible. and, i realize it was due to my lack or skill/experience/patience. fish eyes (basically pits in the finish where the epoxy did not stick), runs. just looks awful. well, now what are my options before i rip the tub out and put in a new one? sand it? that's what Klenks customer service in the US said. although they didn't really seem too knowledgeable, or willing to give too much advice. i admitted that it was my fault..but they just wanted to defend their product. oh well, i'm sure it works..but, it was a mistake for me to try it. so, they also said that there are no strippers that will remove the epoxy..but, in this thread there is the recommendation for the Circa 1850 paint and varnish remover. so, if i were to get this product, what type of tool i use to "scrape" the paint with. home depot (where i bought the klenks) has some paint and epoxy removers. like this one: Jasco: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100371866&N=10000003+90076+500468&marketID=76&locStoreNum=1806 klean-strip: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100187054&N=10000003+90076+500468&marketID=76&locStoreNum=1806 will this ruin the porcelain (original) finish? we're moving..so this is just getting the tub looking better. thanks in advance. cary |
| Neil Aug 02, 2007 09:00:21 | RE: Klenks epoxy Use the Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. Block off your pipes. The stripper will potentially damage them. Make sure you follow all the prep work involved. No short cuts. If you have a fisheye problem the compnay can send you out an anti fish eye kit no charge. Good Luck |
| Mark Aug 02, 2007 10:01:14 | RE: Klenks epoxy Cary, Since you are in the US, you may not have access to the Circa 1850 Product Line. You can order online from this site. |
| gailj Aug 08, 2007 13:29:21 | RE: Klenks epoxy Can I have the Klenks epoxy tinted? I have a white kit and I would like to match a grey enamel tabletop. |
| kalder Sep 08, 2007 23:12:48 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am considering Klenks epoxy as a durable floor paint directly over my 3/4" plywood subfloor in the basement. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations to esure success. |
| Neil Sep 10, 2007 17:19:18 | RE: Klenks epoxy This product is sold for tubs and tiles. I am not sure it this is the way to go. |
| jan Oct 06, 2007 16:45:44 | RE: Klenks epoxy i know how stupid this is but there was no instruction sheet in the box,so i put a on first,now of course b just melts it what can I do now thanks jan |
| Neil Oct 06, 2007 23:10:35 | RE: Klenks epoxy I not sure what you saying. However, you have to remove what ever you messed up and start over again. link to instructions: http://www.swingpaints.com/directions_8100_8199.pdf |
| Bob Cameron Nov 06, 2007 22:19:06 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have a wooden cedar hot tub. I repaired some rot at the tops of the wood staves with an epoxy which gave a nice hard finish. I carried the epoxy down inside the tub about 5 to 6 inches. The waterline in the tub is between 1 and 3 inches down from the top so the upper portion of the staves are immersed in water at 140 F and a pH of about 7.5. The water apprears to be extracting something from the epoxy that is causing the pH to increase. Can I use Klenks epoxy to cover this epoxy repair and stop what appears to be a chemcial reaction? Thanks for your help. |
| Mark Nov 07, 2007 09:09:57 | RE: Klenks epoxy More than likely, the filler used in the epoxy is now leaching out into the hot water. You can use Klenk's Enamel Epoxy over the exising repair work. This should prevent any further leaching. |
| Russ Nov 27, 2007 00:17:05 | RE: Klenks epoxy Can basic tints be used to match colours? |
| Mark Nov 27, 2007 05:52:18 | RE: Klenks epoxy You can use universal tints to obtain pale colours. Other colours require special epoxy colourants. |
| Jackie Dec 22, 2007 11:52:27 | RE: Klenks epoxy HI , I hired someone to paint the harvest gold tub with your product. Now I not only have fish eyes but an orange peel looking half done tub. Obviously he didnt know how to do it, what do I do now he has two coats on and I think has given up??????. Also how long does the smell last. Its Christmas and the whole house stinks!!!!! |
| Mark Dec 22, 2007 12:01:23 | RE: Klenks epoxy You have two choices. You can either strip off the entire mess, or you can sand the surface to remove the orange peel, add some fish-eye eliminator, and repaint. The house will continue to smell if you do not vent the room to the outside. The lack of ventilation has probably led to the orange peel. |
| jackie Dec 22, 2007 12:44:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks Mark. the room is ventilated ok now choice #1 what would I use to strip it? #2 if I sand what grit would I use and is that the fish eye stuff you mentioned in another answer from the industrial or automotive dealer?? I live in Canada do you know what brand I would look for. thanks for being at the end of the email on a Sat before Xmas I really appreciate it . |
| Mark Dec 22, 2007 12:50:49 | RE: Klenks epoxy To strip off the existing finish - use Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. It is available everywhere. For sanding, you propably should go with 200 grit (or finer). Fish eye eliminator is usually found at places that sell industrial finishes (lacquers, automotive finishes). |
| MIKE Dec 27, 2007 12:56:53 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi, I bought the Klenk's Kit for Sink and Tub from a Home Deport in U.S. intending to paint my Kitchen Sink. Having read the posts on this form, I am hesitating to use it for the kitchen sink now since it does state that it is not for kitchen sink. Is the Kit made in Canada suitable for Kitchen sink? Or is the Kitchen sink just not suitable for repainting? Thank you in advance for your opinions. |
| Mark Dec 27, 2007 14:00:25 | RE: Klenks epoxy The issue in kitchens is two-fold. First, the paint will chip if you drop a heavy object onto the surface. Second, the surface is susceptible to staining from certain foods. |
| Neil Dec 27, 2007 15:27:37 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am not 100 % sure but there is a chance the solvents in the paint could possibly do damage to the plastic. |
| Mark Dec 27, 2007 17:59:36 | RE: Klenks epoxy What plastic? |
| Neil Dec 27, 2007 22:26:19 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have no idea what i was looking at. Please excuse my post. I must have been looking at something else where and inavertanly replied here. |
| MIKE Dec 27, 2007 23:36:17 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi, I bought the Klenk's Kit for Sink and Tub from a Home Deport in U.S. intending to paint my Kitchen Sink. Having read the posts on this form, I am hesitating to use it for the kitchen sink now since it does state that it is not for kitchen sink. Is the Kit made in Canada suitable for Kitchen sink? Or is the Kitchen sink just not suitable for repainting? Thank you in advance for your opinions. |
| MIKE Dec 27, 2007 23:43:24 | RE: Klenks epoxy Sorry about the reposting of message by mistake. Mark, Thank you for the quick reply. I guess that I should not paint the kitchen sink. Have anybody heard of a company called Perma Glaze? According to their website, their product maybe a alternative than replacing the kitchen sink. But I still have to hear back from them. |
| Danny Jan 03, 2008 18:44:51 | RE: Klenks epoxy My wife recently refinished our downstairs bathtub with Klenks. I sanded it as per teh instructions, but did not clean with TSP as I didn't know when she was going to finish it. She thought I had cleaned it and proceeded to apply the epoxy...what a mess!!! It adhered to everything, but it ran like crazy and has all sorts of little blisters and stuff that looks like sand in it. The question is, I now have to remove this stuff so we can do it again. Is there any paint remover that will work on this stuff or do I have to sand it right down? I've gone through the better part of a package of sandpaper with little result so far !!!! Help!!!! |
| Jonathan Jan 03, 2008 21:54:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy Purchased the product for our tub and tile surround just finished spraying, looks great!! I sprayed four coats, due to conventional spray gun I lost alot to overspray, and needed three liters. A little nervous at reading the posts and hope it adheres well. Best I can tell surface prep is the key to success, its not pleasant but what kind of cleaning is? One question in retrospect, do you recommend a milddew sealant for old grout, (like killz, or Bin) I know you suggest the best is to remove it, but if not? I did not use one as I did not know about this forum to ask, and did not want to contaminate/ cause any reaction. I just prewashed with ammonia to strip existing sealant and cleaned away visible mildew, scraped grout lines, then proceeded with a very heavy tsp wash down and listed steps. Just curious for next time, love the product! Jonathan |
| Brian Jan 07, 2008 15:19:54 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am helping my dad prepare his condo for sale. He does not wish to spend any significant $$ in this process, even though I think he would be well advised to do so! His bathroom sinks are integral with the counter tops and are made of some sort of man-made imitation marble product. At the drain location in the sinks there are many surface cracks radiating outwards from the drain and these look unsightly. My father does not wish to change the sinks at this time. Even though I expect that whoever buys the place will likely end up changing the sinks, I think it would at least be sensible to improve the appearance before he puts the condo on the market. Would Klenk's Epoxy work in this situation? Longevity is not a really important concern to me. I am just concerned as to whether there might be incompatibility with the man-made marble product. Many thanks ....... Brian. |
| Mark Jan 08, 2008 06:55:52 | RE: Klenks epoxy Brian, Imitation marble (plastic) can soften or melt when contacted with the paint. Test first with the Epoxy Thinner on an inconspicuous area to see if there are any adverse effects. If none, go ahead and paint. |
| Brian Jan 08, 2008 08:22:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks Mark, Is it necessary to buy the Klenk's thinner to do that test or will acetone or lacquer thinner which I already have be ok to do the test that you suggest? Brian |
| Mark Jan 08, 2008 11:40:54 | RE: Klenks epoxy Acetone probably won't tell much. Lacquer thinner is too variable to be of much use. You can use Super DeGooper if you have some handy. |
| Mark Jan 08, 2008 12:53:32 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks again Mark, I guess it would be best just to buy the proper thinner to be sure. I think chances are that the sink should be ok to paint. I believe it is what they call cultured marble which i understand to be a mix of marble dust and epoxy resin. It looks very marble-like and seems very dense, so I'm guessing it must have a pretty high marble dust content as opposed top being a plastic imititation product. Thanks again ...... Brian.. |
| Diane Feb 23, 2008 16:37:47 | RE: Klenks epoxy I belive our soaker tub in our bathroom is approximately 13 years old and is an acrylic or fiberglass finish, not sure what you call it, (it is not a ceramic tub)and I am wondering if this product is the right product for changing the colour. Right now it is pink and I want to change it to white. There is nothing wrong with the finish on the tub just want to change the colour. Any comments you may have would be helpful. Thanks |
| Mark Feb 24, 2008 16:39:38 | RE: Klenks epoxy You need to test the paint to determine whether it will affect the surface. |
| Jonathan Mar 09, 2008 15:53:56 | RE: Klenks epoxy Surface prep is the key to everything. The reason they recommend you remove the grout is do to the fact that most grouts have at some time been sealed with silicone or are a silicone based grout.The latter is impossible to prep without contaminating the whole surrounding surface. It sounds like you got lucky and had sealed grout, and you did an excellent prep job. I have been thinking of using product. would you consider this to be a fiberglass resin based product or a urethane paint? Also what type of spay gun did you use? Siphon feed or gravity,HVLP. What air pressure did you run? What did you use to clean your gun when you were finished? |
| Lindsay Mar 13, 2008 13:30:38 | RE: Klenks epoxy I just bought a house and the bathtub in the basement was spray painted, I would like to refinish it. Can you send me KLENKS EPOXY BATHTUB ENAMEL, to Ontario, and if so, what is the cost and how big is the container? Thanks, Lindsay |
| Neil Mar 13, 2008 23:53:48 | RE: Klenks epoxy You can buy it at Rona Stores or Home Hardware. If the spray paint on there is not epoxy you will have to strip it off first. Use klenks thinner to test it. |
| Bharati Mar 24, 2008 23:12:13 | RE: Klenks epoxy I refinished my bathtub with Klenk's epoxy finsh many years ago. It is starting to peel off in chunks now. How can I clean it all off/ remove it and repaint it? Any advice on this project? |
| Neil Mar 25, 2008 21:53:35 | RE: Klenks epoxy At this point, with the major peeling, your only option is to remove the entire coating from the tub surface. you can accomplish this using circa 1850 heavy body paint & varnish remover. Remember to block off your pipes. Good Luck |
| Bharati Mar 26, 2008 10:48:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks Neil. |
| Stephanie Mar 31, 2008 18:25:55 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi I would like to use the Klenks product on my fibreglass tub....it is a solid unit and I wish to just do the bottom of the tub as it has no finish left on it and is discolored and slightly pitted.... I''''m a little skeptical and wondering if this is the best product to use? Can I make a tape line with masking tape so I have a nice line? Also there is a baby in the house are the fumes toxic??? |
| Mark Apr 02, 2008 06:48:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy Using Klenk's Epoxy on a fibreglass tub may or may not work. The only way to find out is to test some on a spot. If you do decide to use this product, you should paint the entire tub, not just the bottom. |
| Stephanie Apr 02, 2008 14:30:56 | RE: Klenks epoxy Are the fumes considered toxic for an infant child? |
| Mark Apr 02, 2008 14:33:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy Neither you nor your infant should be breathing in the fumes. All painting must be done in a well ventilated area. |
| Richard Apr 12, 2008 11:19:45 | RE: Klenks epoxy Je viens d'acheter ce produit pour prolonger la vie d'un vieux bain. Je vous donnerai des nouvelles pour les résultats. Je voulais simplement mentionner que le mode d'emploi est rempli de fautes et est à la limite du compréhensible. Franchement, vous devriez faire un effort et mandater un traducteur compétent pour faire ce travail. Salutations. |
| Richard Apr 12, 2008 12:33:41 | RE: Klenks epoxy Je viens d'acheter ce produit pour prolonger la vie d'un vieux bain. Je vous donnerai des nouvelles pour les résultats. Je voulais simplement mentionner que le mode d'emploi est rempli de fautes et est à la limite du compréhensible. Franchement, vous devriez faire un effort et mandater un traducteur compétent pour faire ce travail. Salutations. |
| nancy Campbell Apr 12, 2008 14:29:39 | RE: Klenks epoxy I need to know where to buy this product near Danbury, CT USA |
| Mark Apr 15, 2008 09:48:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy This product is only sold in Canada. |
| Moira Apr 17, 2008 19:47:30 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi, Am wondering how many people are really happy with outcome/effort they have put into this? I for one see that there have been mostly bad reports. My tub is cast iron, has been prof. refinished approx. 12/14 years ago. In the last 5 has be losing the finish ( I would assume it is enamel). Myself, have spent a lot of time - scraped all caulk around tub, sanded wiyh 220 s/paper, figure I will use a green pad & TSP, & scrub hard. Rinse, dry & go from there. So far does my prep work sound like I have done it right. I did not buy the prep kit - is there anything specific in the prod. or is there something that the guys who know their stuff can suggest, or any other suggestions to be made. Also, the 6" - does one paint one way, 6" at a time - dry - wait 2 hrs, & then 6" across at a time. Thanks for the help. I'm going to need it, I dont want to do this again, |
| Mark Apr 18, 2008 09:15:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy If the old finish is peeling off, you will need to completely remove it using Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. Afterward, follow the instructions for cleaning and preparing the surface. |
| Terri Durham May 14, 2008 09:21:17 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi. I painted my beige bathtub and sink with white Klenk's Swiss Epoxy and was very happy with the results. After waiting for it to cure for five days, I noticed some of the beige still showed through on the tub after two coats so I decided to buy a second tub kit and re-coat a third and fourth time. Yesterday I re-applied the third coat; I thought the paint was a lot thinner than I remembered but I went ahead and the tub looks even better. I put the left over in the freezer and today when I got it out, all the epoxy had risen to the top. That was when I realized that I had poured part B into part A instead of vice versa as required. So now I have several questions: 1)will my tub and sink still dry acceptably after this third coat? 2) should I leave it, or attempt to re-coat a fourth time? 3) if I choose to re-coat, can I drain the risen epoxy off the top, back into it's original can (Part B), and then re-add the separated paint (Part A) to it as I was supposed to in the first place? |
| Mark May 14, 2008 09:28:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy You need to pour the entire contents of PART B into the half filled can labeled PART A. Stir the mixture and leave for 1 hour. Apply the paint. If you decide to place the mixture into the freezer after the first coat, seal the cans well and wrap in a plastic bag. When you are ready to apply another coat, take the mixture out of the freezer and allow the contents to come to room temperature. Stir the mixture well and apply the paint. |
| Terri May 14, 2008 10:55:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi Mark, Yes, I know that is what I should have done and it was done properly this way for the first two coats. But for the third coat I have already done it backwards and poured Part A into Part B. And I have painted the third coat with the backwards mixed solution. I didn't realize my mistake until after I have already put the backwards mixed mixture into the freezer and it has separated. I want to know how this mistake will effect the drying of the tub and if i can drain off the separated now epoxy from the already frozen mixture and then re-try to mix it correctly in order to do the fourth coat. Thanks. |
| Mark May 14, 2008 11:00:46 | RE: Klenks epoxy Not quite sure how that is possible. PART B is nearly filled to the top. If you only poured a small portion of PART A into PART B, your paint will probably never cure. More than likely you will have to completely remove the third coat from the tub surface. If you mix the entire contents of the now separated PART B back into the can labeled PART A, you may be able to use that mixture. |
| Terri May 14, 2008 20:37:51 | RE: Klenks epoxy Trust me; I did it backwards. The two blended together fine when I painted with the backwards mixture; the paint was just a little on the runny side. They didn't separate until I put them in the freezer. If the third coat is dry to the touch can I take that as a sign that it will cure alright and paint a proper fourth coat over it? Or should I wait five days before deciding what to do? The tub itself looks good right now. |
| Mark May 15, 2008 09:47:04 | RE: Klenks epoxy If it dries, you can apply another coat. You do not have to wait 5 days. |
| Terri May 15, 2008 13:08:00 | RE: Klenks epoxy It seems to have dried fine. Thanks for your help. It was much appreciated. |
| Jim Freeman Jul 05, 2008 11:01:41 | RE: Klenks epoxy Something is wrong. I bought the product to refinish an old cast iron tub. I followed all the instructions to the letter. But the product goes on almost clear (I bought white), and after two coats it does not come close to visually covering the grey stained surface beneath. Yes, I used the prep kit and prepped carefully. Jim |
| Neil Jul 05, 2008 23:27:58 | RE: Klenks epoxy Perhaps 2 coats of white is not enough to hide the Grey?? Can you desribe how you mixed and applied the paint? |
| jim Jul 06, 2008 09:34:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy I cleaned the tub with the cleaning kit. I let the surface dry. I stirred each can separately, before pouring one into the other and stirring them together. I closed the lid. I waited one hour. The product had separated, so I stirred again. I was surprised that the product went on clear. I put the can in the freezer. The next day I took the can out and left it at room temperature for an hour. I stirred it again. This time it was a bit thicker and whiter. I applied a second coat, which was a bit milky, but far from a real white. The two coats have failed to cover. I`m doing this for my tenant, who doesn`t appreciate the fumes or the five days she will have to wait to take a bath. I`m pretty discouraged with the product and would like to return it for a refund. I could keep putting on coats each day, extending the time before the bath can be used again, but it seems a useless exercise. |
| Neil Jul 06, 2008 23:09:33 | RE: Klenks epoxy Did one of the cans contain white paint and the other clear hardener? Sometimes in the store the cutomers will takes the can out of the box and mix the cans up. So what ends up happening is they take the clear hardener from the 500 ml kit and put it back in a box with the clear hardener from the 1-L kit. You end up with 2 cans of hardener and no paint. Secondly did you stir the paint can to the point where you got all the paint off the bottom of the can. This process can take a good 5 minutes of scaping the colour off the bottom if the Epoxy has been of the shelf for a long time. |
| jim Jul 07, 2008 09:27:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy No, I have the right two cans: one was half full of white and the smaller can full of clear. Both were marked 500 ml, one marked "A" the other marked "B". But, yes, mixing was hard and no matter how long I mixed there was still thicker white paint at the bottom. I simply stirred with a paint stick. Should I be using my cordless drill with mixing attachment? The can is back in the freezer while I decide if another coat is worth the trouble. If the problem is insufficient mixing, will it still blend after 4 days in the freezer? Thanks, JIm |
| jim Jul 07, 2008 09:27:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy No, I have the right two cans: one was half full of white and the smaller can full of clear. Both were marked 500 ml, one marked "A" the other marked "B". But, yes, mixing was hard and no matter how long I mixed there was still thicker white paint at the bottom. I simply stirred with a paint stick. Should I be using my cordless drill with mixing attachment? The can is back in the freezer while I decide if another coat is worth the trouble. If the problem is insufficient mixing, will it still blend after 4 days in the freezer? Thanks, JIm |
| Neil Jul 07, 2008 21:46:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy Sounds like you need a new can. |
| Russ Jul 25, 2008 02:29:05 | RE: Klenks epoxy Is it okay to save a small quantity of paint and hardener to mix at a later date. I was thinking I could use it for touch up jobs. Is the mix ratio 50% paint, 50% hardener? |
| Mark Jul 25, 2008 06:30:13 | RE: Klenks epoxy Russ, That is a good idea. I suggest you pour the unmixed portions into two smaller containers with little or no head space to help preserve the paint. The mixing ratio is 50% paint and 50% hardener. |
| Colin Jul 30, 2008 20:29:27 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hello, I am an idiot and I painted my tub with some spray enamel cans thinking I could refinish it that way. Then I bought this refinishing kit. Anyways the enamel went on consistently and looks good. Will I have to remove the spray enamel from the tub in order to use the refinishing kit? Or can I use the refinish epoxy over the enamel? If I must remove the enamel what is the easiest way to do so? Thanks |
| Neil Jul 30, 2008 20:52:39 | RE: Klenks epoxy You must remove the paint first. Use Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. Block off you pipes. |
| Colin Jul 31, 2008 00:56:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy How much of that 1850 will I need to remove the paint in the tub? |
| Neil Jul 31, 2008 08:09:36 | RE: Klenks epoxy Try 1-L |
| Colin Williams Aug 04, 2008 14:07:09 | RE: Klenks epoxy So I ended up with fisheye. Can I just sand it smooth and use the tub once it finishes drying? |
| Mark Aug 04, 2008 20:47:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy The area with fish eyes will not resist water penetration - the paint may begin to fail and peel. |
| Colin Williams Aug 04, 2008 21:04:27 | RE: Klenks epoxy is there a health hazard associated with the peeling paint, or would it be safe for bathing even if the paint wears? |
| Irene Apr 16, 2009 15:05:54 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have been having trouble with getting my first coat to dry. I followed all instructions faithfully. We put in a heater to be sure the bathroom was at least at 24 degrees. 48 hours later, it is still tacky, although just a bit less than it was after 6 hours. Now we put in a portable dehumidifier, hoping that helps. If not, what are my options? |
| Mark Apr 16, 2009 15:43:09 | RE: Klenks epoxy Something is not right. The paint should be dry is just a couple hours at that temperature. If it is still tacky after all this time, you should remove the what you have applied and start from scratch. Some possible causes: Oil or grime on the surface Inadequate time of induction Contamination from tack cloth |
| Irene Apr 16, 2009 16:45:03 | RE: Klenks epoxy What is inadequate time of induction? |
| Mark Apr 16, 2009 16:47:32 | RE: Klenks epoxy You must mix the two components together and wait 1 hour prior to applying the paint. |
| Irene Apr 16, 2009 16:52:39 | RE: Klenks epoxy Could using pure Acetone instead of the Klenk's Epoxy thinner have caused the problem with non-drying? I didn't think of that before, as we were told by a paint store that it would be ok. We waited about a half hour before applying the paint. The paint was mixed an hour before use, and covered, and allowed to stand. |
| Mark Apr 16, 2009 16:58:02 | RE: Klenks epoxy Where and how was the acetone used? |
| Irene Apr 16, 2009 17:30:02 | RE: Klenks epoxy We used it instead of the Epoxy thinner to help clean caulking areas, and for the final wipe-down as instructions stated. |
| Mark Apr 16, 2009 18:08:52 | RE: Klenks epoxy How long before applying the paint did you do the final wipe-down. Was it PURE acetone? |
| Irene Apr 16, 2009 18:25:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy I wiped it down about 40 minutes before painting, let it dry about 30 minutes. Yes, it is pure acetone. |
| Mark Apr 17, 2009 09:12:18 | RE: Klenks epoxy Pure acetone can affect the finish, but it really depends on what cleaning and preparation was done prior to using the acetone. You indicated "I followed all instructions faithfully", but using acetone is not part of the instructions. Anything else you want to share? |
| Irene Apr 17, 2009 10:17:26 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thankyou very much for such a "helpful" response. Looks like I am on my own here. |
| Mark Apr 17, 2009 12:47:41 | RE: Klenks epoxy I can only help you if you share all the information on what you did. You indicated "I followed all instructions faithfully", but using acetone is not part of the instructions. If there are other things that were not done according to the instructions, I would need to know that in order to determine why your paint did not cure. I am not sure why you would call that being "on your own". |
| Vanessa Apr 27, 2009 07:44:50 | RE: Klenks epoxy I was planning on refinishing our tub, likely the original tub and our house was build in 1945, but I'm beginning to feel a bit hesitant based on some of the things I've read on this forum. Should I just go ahead and assume I'll have fish eyes, and add in some anti fish eye from the start? Also, how long can I expect the re-finished surface to last before I have to do it again? Thanks. |
| Mark Apr 27, 2009 07:58:51 | RE: Klenks epoxy Klenks Epoxy should be used as it is supplied in the kit. You should never add anything else to it, unless you are recommended to by the company. Fish eyes occur when the surface is not cleaned properly - some residue of silicone caulking remains. If you follow the directions, rinsing with ammonia and the epoxy thinner, you will not have any problem with fish eyes. The longevity of the finish will depend mostly on the surface preparation. Just like any painting project, the surace must be clean and well sanded. After the paint has cured, the paint will last for many, many years. If you take care of the surface (gentle cleaning) and avoid dropping objects onto it, you can expect a minimum of 5 years - some customers have had it last for 15 years and more. |
| Todd May 09, 2009 07:15:09 | RE: Klenks epoxy We're planning to refinish an old cast iron tub that has peeled in several areas. There is no rust. Some surfaces are perfect (glossy white), others are rough where the paint has peeled. Sanding the edges where remaining paint meets the peeled areas seems to smooth the surface adequately. Prior to cleaning and prepping the tub do you suggest sanding of the glossy areas as well? Also, we bought your product at The Home Depot who seemed uncertain as to what brush type to use. They recommended a natural bristle brush. What do you suggest? |
| Mark May 09, 2009 13:12:59 | RE: Klenks epoxy Was the previous paint an epoxy? If not, you should remove all the old finish using Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. In either case, it is probably best to completely remove the old finish unless you can be absolutely sure you have removed all the loose paint. If you use the Klenks Prep Kit as recommended, you will not have to do any additional sanding. A pure bristle brush will work with epoxy paints. You can use any brush that is recommended for epoxies. |
| Todd May 09, 2009 14:32:50 | RE: Klenks epoxy We had the tub refinished professionally some years ago and as far as I can tell the paint that remains appears to be epoxy. Where the paint has come off the surface is white and not smooth. A little porous and sort of etched. Where the paint remains it has a glossy white appearance and is as good as new. I've not stripped a tub before but have done a number of pieces of furniture. In my experience it can be very time consuming depending upon the number of coats to be remove, design of the piece etc. Does Circa 1850 remove old finishes fairly easily? |
| Mark May 09, 2009 17:09:52 | RE: Klenks epoxy If you were not using Circa 1850, I can imagine the work may have been tedious. Follow the directions and you will find that it is a breeze. |
| Todd May 10, 2009 06:47:40 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks Mark. |
| simon May 25, 2009 23:08:52 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi I have a cast iron tub that has some roughness that I would like to sand down before coating up. What would be appropriate grit to prep the tub and in what stage in the instructions would I put this step into. Also there are some larger chips I would like to repair. can I use automotive bondo? additionally I do have a bit of rust at the drain, the instructions recommend 1850 bare metal. is this available at Rona? lastly I will be using a graco hvlp 4900. Turbine based sprayer. do I need to take any precautions with the hotter air it puts out in comparison to a traditional sprayer ? Thank you for your time, Simon |
| Mark May 27, 2009 10:02:33 | RE: Klenks epoxy Sanding should be done after cleaning using 200 grit or finer. Bondo, or any other two-part epoxy filler, can be used to fill chips. Circa 1850 Bare Metal can be ordered at any Rona store if they do not stock this item. |
| Simon May 28, 2009 00:56:21 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks for the reply Mark. one last question after stripping the exterior of the tub I have run into a coating of red oxide. Any idea's on what I should do with this? the circa stripper can't even put a dent in the stuff. also have tried a Wire wheel on a grinder and that is having one hell of a time with it? my goal is to get to bare metal on the exterior in order to gain the most durable finish. Also the tub has a casted plaque written on the bottom opposite side from the drain it is written Canada Toronto along with some numbers. in your reglazing experience do you know of an information source to make sense of the numbers on the tub ? again thank you :) |
| Mark May 28, 2009 07:51:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy Red oxide? It is possible that this is simply a coating of iron oxide, the natural oxidized form of iron? Have you tried an metal cleaner on it, such as naval jelly or Circa 1850 Bare Metal? If it is indeed a red oxide primer, some of the primer may be chemically bonded to the cast iron. Grinding may be the only solution. Plaque probably refers to the part number or serial number of the tub. If you find the manuafacturer name, you can probably get the production date. |
| simon May 28, 2009 10:51:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy it's defiantly red oxide you can see where the paint ends. Well maybe it's time to go buy a big grinder then, been wanting one for awail anyways *grin*. I'll use the circa bare metal first just to ensure that it is red oxide for the sake of testing. |
| David Jun 06, 2009 15:41:31 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am about to start refinishing my tub and I have a few questions (after reading the instructions): A)Concerning the old drain fixtures: there is some rust around the drain and overflow plate and what appears to be some small cracks in the old finish. 1) Is the Klenk''s Prep Kit enough to remove the rust or should I buy something stronger? 2) If I grind the rust off, or chip off the cracked enamel, what exactly do I fill the dents with? 3) How worried should I be about the rust? 4) Is the best order: prep the tub, remove the old fixtures, prep underneath the fixtures, refinish the tub, install new fixtures? B)I notice that it is supposed to be 25 degrees for a week for proper drying, according to the instructions. 1) How important is this? 2) Is there any danger that a heater will ignite the fumes? Should I just leave a heater on in the bathroom for a few days? C) If I plan to do three coats, is it a good plan to do one coat in the morning, one in the evening, and another (with a new can) the next day? Thank you very much. |
| David Jun 07, 2009 23:45:04 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi can't find Klenks epoxy anywhere Please provide me with a retailer in Montreal for the complete Kits. Thanks David |
| Mark Jun 08, 2009 11:41:40 | RE: Klenks epoxy Klenks Epoxy is available at Rona, Reno Depot, and BMR stores in Montreal. If the rust is in the substrate (and not from the water pipes) you should use a rust converter. Chips should be filled with an epoxy filler. Remove all fixtures prior to any prep work. Painting in low tempertures or high humidity will slow the curing. You will not be able to apply a second coat after 2 hours. |
| Louis Jun 15, 2009 16:27:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have used a high density roler to apply the epoxy and I have the orange texture on the finish. Is it possible to use a buffing compound to smooth it out or make it shine( I could smooth it out with a 400 or higher sandpaper, but I get a dull finish) |
| Mark Jun 16, 2009 06:02:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy Yes - any time you use a roller you will end up with an orange peel finish. Now that the paint has dried, you can buff out the finish with progressively higher grits of sandpaper, but this does seem like a lot of work and you run the risk of buffing off the finish. If you want to get a smoother finish it is problably best to apply a final coat with a brush. You can even apply the coat with the same high density foam roller you used previously, but use a brush to "tip off" the finish after each passing of the roller. |
| Louis Jun 16, 2009 12:38:40 | RE: Klenks epoxy Between coats of paint I did some sanding, what is the proper way to clean the dust after sanding thank you |
| Mark Jun 16, 2009 12:40:59 | RE: Klenks epoxy A cloth dampened with Epoxy Thinner is the best method. |
| Frank Sep 06, 2009 01:41:29 | RE: Klenks epoxy I purchased a few "Klenks Sink Refinishing Kits" from a tag sale. I am in the USA, and am wondering if this kit is older since I thought I read this isn't sold in the USA any longer? The sku on the back is:036333085018 I am hoping to use these kits to finish a big sink in the basement of an old house I just bought. The instructions I have only talk about 2 coats, and don't mention anything about putting it in the freezer till the next day. Is my kit maybe an old one from when they used to sell in the USA? I have 4 kits and intent to use them with the instructions in the package, but was curious to know??? |
| Mark Sep 06, 2009 07:59:31 | RE: Klenks epoxy The kits that you purchased, "Klenks Sink Refinishing Kits", were never manufactured by Swing Paints. Klenks Swiss Formula Epoxy, manufactured and sold in Canada, is not related to the product of a similar name sold in the US. You should contact Liquid Nails (www.klenks.com) for any information concerning "Klenks Sink Refinishing Kits". |
| Christy Oct 04, 2009 17:17:28 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have reglazed our bathtub with Klenks once about 8 years ago. It has been great, but now has a few "holes" where the epoxy is starting to peel away. Can I reglaze it again? If so, do I need to strip off all the old epoxy or just sand the "holes", then reappy the new coat? Thx for the advice! |
| Mark Oct 05, 2009 07:34:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy If you can guarantee that you have removed all the loose paint and sanded next to those spots, you can repaint over the existing finish. However, if you missed any loose paint, the new coat will peel off. It is therefore recommended to completely remove the finish using Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover, and start from a clean unpainted surface. |
| Terry Nov 04, 2009 12:35:37 | re: Klenks epoxy Can I add colour to Klenks white by stirring in alkyd or latex paint when "B" is added to "A"? Thanks! |
| Mark Nov 04, 2009 12:46:51 | RE: Klenks epoxy No, you cannot add alkyd or latex paint to Klenks Epoxy. You can add universal colourants or solvent-free artist pigments to achieve off white or pastel shades. If there is a particular colour that you desire, we can colour match for you. |
| Scott Nov 07, 2009 15:45:21 | RE: Klenks epoxy We have a tub, with a non slip finish on the bottom of it. Will Klenks work on this &if so is there any special prep work needed to recoat the tub. thanks |
| jay Jan 23, 2010 08:46:26 | RE: Klenks epoxy is Klenks available in teal (blue/green) |
| Mark Jan 25, 2010 13:59:41 | RE: Klenks epoxy That would be a special order colour - but any colour can be matched. |
| jay Jan 26, 2010 08:46:36 | RE: Klenks epoxy two questions: are there any isocyonates in Klenks? I found your product in Home Hardware. Where and how can the tints be purchased. I live in Windsor, Ontario, Canada. By the way. Thanks for providing this forum for answering questions. It's most helpful. |
| Mark Jan 26, 2010 10:55:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy Isocyanates are not present in Klenks. Epoxy tints are hard to come by, but some specialty paint stores do carry them. Alternatively, pick the colour you want from the Home Hardware paint colour chips and have them mail it to us. We will do the matching for you. |
| LOUIS Jan 26, 2010 22:32:47 | RE: Klenks epoxy HI I BOUGTH THE KIT KLENK'S EPOXY ENAMEL IN RONA, HOW GOOD ITS THIS PRODUCT TO SPRAY IT IN THE BATHTUB. |
| suzan Feb 04, 2010 09:36:31 | RE: Klenks epoxy We refinished our clawfoot tub with Klenk's about 18 yrs ago. It's held up great until just recently. There's now yellowing and some chipping around the drain. We'd like to redo it. Do we need to use the prep kit or just clean it well first? |
| Mark Feb 05, 2010 09:32:38 | RE: Klenks epoxy It would be best to completely remove the old paint and start from scratch. The risk to painting over the old finish is that the loose paint may extend beyond the chipped area. Remove the existing finish using Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover. After the old paint has been removed, proceed with the Prep Kit prior to repainting. |
| suzan Feb 05, 2010 12:11:04 | RE: Klenks epoxy Not the response I was hoping for. :) Got my work cut out, it seems. Thanks very much for the advice, Mark. |
| Kristopher Feb 09, 2010 22:07:20 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am covering over an old pink tub from the 1950''s, which had no chipped, rusted, or damaged areas. After the first coat, I got a few fish-eyes, but was unable to find the anti-fish eye solution, so I sanded down the spots with 400 grip sandpaper. After that I gave the entire surface a quick clean with the Epoxy Thinner. I then applied a second and third coat. The good news is that the fish-eyes disappeared. The bad news is that the surface of the tub dried so bumpy and rough, that you would think I added sand to the paint! What has caused this - it''s very demoralizing because the tub looks great from a distance, but would probably cut up my skin if I laid down in it! Do I need to sand the heck out of the entire tub and apply a 4th coat of fresh epoxy...? |
| Mark Feb 10, 2010 09:12:19 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am not certain why you ended up with a rough surface. The epoxy thinner should not have reacted with the paint, as long as it had dried. Are the bumps from bits of sanding grit or sanded paint? Could the bumps have come from dried paint on your paint brush? Could sanding the fish eyes have caused the silicone to ball up into small pieces? At this point, sanding the surface so that it is smooth and applying a fourth coat with a new, clean brush should fix your problem. |
| Kristopher Feb 10, 2010 13:11:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks Mark, The bumps are quite strange. The surface was smooth after the 1st coat. The next day I sanded the fish eye areas on the bottom of the tub, then cleaned the ENTIRE tub with a lint free cloth and Epoxy Thinner. While that dried, I removed the Epoxy from the freezer, allowed it to stand for ~1hr., then used a brand new brush to apply the 2nd coat. I waited ~3hrs., the surface was smooth but not 100% white, then applied a 3rd coat with yet another new brush (I was being super paranoid). The tub looked fantastic, yet when I checked on it in the morning, nearly the entire surface was gritty! I'm not exaggerating when I said it felt like textured paint that you'd add fine sand to - especially along the top rim and the corners of the inside base. Easily 30% of the tub surface is rough. I've sanded the entire surface again with 400 grit sandpaper, and it appears to be smoother. I need to add a 4th coat, regardless, as the pink colour is proving difficult to cover up. Would you recommend switching to a sprayer for this next coat? Are there any special instructions I should keep in mind while spraying, such as nozzle size or spraying pattern? |
| Mark Feb 10, 2010 13:22:10 | RE: Klenks epoxy Very strange indeed. I don't know where the grit could have come from. User a sprayer will always yield a nice finish. You can spray the product as is - no need to thin. Spray applicators have used everything from the very simple Wagner sprayers to professional ones. I am not sure what would be the best nozzle or pattern to use. |
| abe Feb 12, 2010 07:35:35 | RE: Klenks epoxy have used your product and finally getting good results but now need to know what toxins to be aware of that are universal to epoxy as apposed to the much touted acrylics non cyanates ? does epoxy yellow? is epoxy stronger than acrylic for bathtub refinishing |
| Mark Feb 12, 2010 10:13:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy What toxins are you refering to? There are no toxins universal to epoxies. Most epoxy coatings will begin to yellow is exposed to UV light. This process can take several years. Pigments in the paint will inhibit yellowing. For most applications (bathtubs) you will not experience yellowing over the life of the product. Epoxy coatings are generally stronger, more scratch resistant and chemically resistant than acrylics. |
| Chris Feb 14, 2010 10:05:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy We are using Klenk''s Tub, Tile, and Sink Epoxy. What is the mixture ratio for the part A to part B. Lost the instructions. Could you send all the directions too. |
| Mark Feb 14, 2010 11:44:53 | RE: Klenks epoxy STOP! Do not proceed without the instructions. You can find them online at www.swingpaints.com/directions_8100_8199.pdf |
| Kent Feb 22, 2010 18:02:30 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have seen lots of information on porcelain coated cast iron tubs but will this product work on enameled steel tubs? Thanks |
| Mark Feb 23, 2010 07:57:39 | RE: Klenks epoxy Klenk''s Epoxy will coat any surface, including enameled steel tubs. |
| Penny Mar 31, 2010 02:30:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am beginning my research on this product. I have a 70''s rectangular sunken tiled tub. The floor of the tub is small and nice white tiles. While the 7 ft walls are light pink speckeled porcelain. I am looking to sand and pretreat the tiles changing the color to white. I am concerned that so many of the postings here are negative about this product. I am only looking at treating the vertical walls and not the flooring, which is already white. The tub is used primarily as a shower but occasionally as a tub. 1. Will the verticle walls cause fish eyes and running during application? 2. How many feet does one kit cover? 3. What is the approximate US dollar cost to your product at a Home Depot? 4. Is it best to use a sprayer since about 98" of my coverage area is vertical? 5. Do professional tub refinishers have a better chance at success over an artist/painter/do it yourselfers? Thank you |
| Mark Apr 01, 2010 08:31:59 | RE: Klenks epoxy Of course the postings will be negative.....if you have no problem, why would you post?? If you ever used a grout sealer on the walls, you will need to have it completely removed or the silicone will cause fish eyes. Scrubing the surface with ammonia and epoxy thinner will remove the silicone. In order to avoid runs, do not apply too much paint to the surface during application. Coverage is approx. 6 sq.m/L (or 40 sq.ft/qt). This product is not sold at Home Depot in US - it is only sold retail in Canada, or through several web sites. Spray application will always yield a better finish, as will application by professional painters. |
| NANCY Apr 23, 2010 10:47:22 | RE: Klenks epoxy Can you spray it on? If so, how should it be done? |
| Mark Apr 23, 2010 11:21:17 | RE: Klenks epoxy Yes you can spray Klenk's Epoxy. The best way is with a professional HPLV system. |
| Stephanie May 09, 2010 11:09:02 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi, I just refinished my tub with Klenk''s with great results! Now I just want to know what I should use to clean the tub so I don''t damage the nice new finish? |
| Mark May 10, 2010 04:51:11 | RE: Klenks epoxy Stephanie, You can use any bathroom cleaner that is free of caustic, bleach and abrasive. Circa 1850 Bare Metal can also be used. This concentrated cleaner can be purchased at many retail shops or online. |
| Lynn Sep 28, 2010 11:46:38 | RE: Klenks epoxy I painted my tub over 10 years ago with your product and it held up really well until we started using it on a daily basis with kids. The paint has completely peeled off the bottom and starting up the sides. It is an antique claw foot tub. I have no interest in re-doing it but I AM wondering if it is safe for the kids to be bathing in it still? I put a non-slip rubber mat in the bottom and there is peeling paint floating around in it daily...SHould I be concerned? |
| Eddie Dec 08, 2010 19:56:39 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi there, my 2 year old son has tested positive with lead in his system. I have an old cast iron tub that has been tested to be the source of the lead. I was wandering if the Klenks epoxy would work to encapsulate and not allow lead to leach out. Thank you |
| Mark Dec 09, 2010 07:43:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy If the lead is actually originating from the surface of the tub, Klenk''s Epoxy will prevent it from leaching into the water. However, it is possible that the lead contamination is coming from your water pipes or fixtures. |
| Jim Dec 13, 2010 17:34:50 | RE: Klenks epoxy Is this epoxy resistant to gas ad other chenicals? |
| Mark Dec 13, 2010 17:54:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy What other chemicals? |
| jim Dec 13, 2010 18:12:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy OK, mainly gasoline |
| Mark Dec 14, 2010 06:56:24 | RE: Klenks epoxy Yes. Klenk's Epoxy is resistant to gasoline once it has fully cured. |
| claude Dec 19, 2010 15:39:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy I cleaned as directed my sink with Klenks Cleaner. I painted as directed but on the bottom of the sink the paint turned grayish and lifted, making some type of blister. What happened? What can I do now? |
| Mark Dec 19, 2010 19:00:05 | RE: Klenks epoxy Blisters indicate that there was oil or similar contamination on the surface. What exactly did you use to clean the sink? |
| claude Dec 19, 2010 19:22:24 | RE: Klenks epoxy Well that a long story. This an old sink. It had beeing already painted by my father-in-law. The paint he used was an ordinary alkyl white paint. That paint was badly fake out when he used some type of Liquid Plumber to unclog the sink. I wash it, scub it and used Klenk's Prep Cleaner on it. It still flaks and turn grayih. Not good. What can I do more? I do not want to sand it downm but is it the only thing to do? Ty. |
| Mark Dec 20, 2010 06:22:57 | RE: Klenks epoxy You really should not be repainting over a surface that is flaking. Furthermore, Klenk's Epoxy may cause other non-epoxy paints to fail. It is always best to remove old paint that is flaking off, as well as any paint that is not epoxy. The best solution is to use Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover to strip off all the paint. After stripping, clean the surface as per the preparation directions, and repaint. |
| R Jan 16, 2011 18:10:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy Have embarked on the 'paint the bathtub' project with the Tub Paint kit. Followed all of the instructions and since my tub is old and dark pink (blech) I am wondering if I can add 4th and 5th coats if the epoxy is still o.k. on the second day. I'm at day 1, second coat and it just doesn't look like it will cover on the 3rd coat. Thanks for your help... R |
| Mark Jan 17, 2011 10:23:46 | RE: Klenks epoxy You can apply as many coats as you like. |
| Heidi Feb 15, 2011 14:55:23 | RE: Klenks epoxy My ABS shower base has developed two 3 inch cracks. Can I use Klenks epoxy to repair it? |
| Neil Feb 15, 2011 18:20:26 | RE: Klenks epoxy It is prudent to stay off the floor for a full 5 days. good luck |
| steve Mar 17, 2011 12:54:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy drum roll...this will be the bathtub painting weekend!!! I''''m nervous but can''''t wait to get going..been waiting 3 wks for weather to get warmer and less humid question: the bathtub has a small area where previous owners touch up painted a small spot 1 cm dia...should I chip away or sand this area down to prep it or should I strip it with the circa 1850 stuff? thanks for your help |
| Mark Mar 17, 2011 16:17:20 | RE: Klenks epoxy You will need to completely remove any touch up that was not done with epoxy. You may be able to remove it using the epoxy thinner. If not, use a paint remover or sand it completely off. |
| steve Mar 20, 2011 22:15:26 | RE: Klenks epoxy thanks mark for your previous reply the job went very well..I''m very pleased with the result I did spend a lot of extra time on the prep work.. It also took 4 coats to cover the old colour of dusty rose/pink..after the second coat there were some gritty areas where some dust landed on the tub..but after a sanding with 400 sandpaper it smoothed out and the 3rd coat went on beautifully.. I also think it makes a difference to keep gloves on and not to touch the surfaces of the tub while painting with bare hands that maybe contaminate it. I would now recommend this product to others. |
| JoAnne Apr 04, 2011 17:44:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi, I recently purchased an old cast iron claw foot tub which is badly stained. I've been reading about your epoxy and it sounds perfect. However, I live on Vancouver Island and it is rare to get a period of low humidity. The tub is currently in my garage - if I rent a space heater to get the temperature up to 24 degrees, will that work? How low does the humidity need to be? Also, I'm concerned with the possibility of lead in the exterior paint which is rusted in spots. Can I just paint over the rust which would prevent it going airborne or do I need to scrape it off first? Thanks for your help. |
| Mark Apr 05, 2011 11:34:15 | RE: Klenks epoxy Lots of good questions. You cannot just paint over rust, or the rust will reappear and cause the paint to peel off. You need to remove the rust, and preferably use a rust converter to prevent the rust from reforming. The temperature and humidity affect how quickly the epoxy cures, as well as the final gloss level. If the temperature is too low, it will take a long time for the epoxy to cure, and you will not be able to use the mixed paint. If you only mix up what you anticipate you will need for each coat, the temperature is not so much of an issue. High humidity causes the paint to lose some of its gloss. If high gloss is not important, you can paint during times of high humidity. I think if you use a space heater and crank up the temperature to 24C you should be fine. |
| doug zettler May 05, 2011 22:58:06 | RE: Klenks epoxy How long can the mixed can of klinks epoxy paint stay in freezer and still be good to use again? |
| Mark May 06, 2011 07:11:20 | RE: Klenks epoxy It depends on the temperature in the freezer, and how long the mixed paint was stored at room temperature. The maximum is probably 48 hours. |
| Duane May 12, 2011 23:55:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy I followed the link for the instructions and found that there wasn''t much to the surface prep. Other than wiping down with ammonia and TSP, it didn''t mention much about sanding. Our tub has dark stains on the bottom from our son''s gas powered remote truck, nitro methane fuel. Should I try sanding with 200? Other than the bottom, the rest of the tub is in not bad shape, but we''re selling soon. |
| Mark May 13, 2011 06:46:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy You must have missed the other preparation steps that must be performed. Sanding is very important. CLEANING: WEAR GLOVES. Apply Klenk''s Prep #1 Cleaning Compound to abrasive sponge. Rub the Cleaning Compound onto the surface in a circular fashion. Thoroughly scrub area where caulking was removed. Rinse surface thoroughly with warm water. WEAR GLOVES. Dissolve the TSP powder in 4-8 litres (1-2 gals) warm water. Scrub the surface using the sponge soaked in TSP solution. Thoroughly scrub area where caulking was removed. Rinse surface thoroughly with warm water. Allow to dry completely. WEAR GLOVES. Apply Klenk''s Epoxy Thinner to a lint-free cloth. Wipe the entire |
| Duane May 13, 2011 10:44:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy and please comment about sanding. |
| Duane May 13, 2011 10:50:22 | RE: Klenks epoxy Mark, nice c/p. But do i need to break the glaze of the existing glaze? as i mentioned its the bottom of the tub i am more concerned about, not really in any areas of caulking. |
| Mark May 13, 2011 10:51:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy Apply Klenk's Prep #1 Cleaning Compound to abrasive sponge. Rub the Cleaning Compound onto the surface in a circular fashion. Thoroughly scrub area where caulking was removed. Rinse surface thoroughly with warm water. Klenk's Prep #1 Cleaning Compound is an abrasive cleaner that cleans and sands the surface. The abrasive sponge will also sand the surface. |
| carolyn Jun 18, 2011 23:13:24 | RE: Klenks epoxy I''m having a master bathroom built and it''s almost completed but there''s one problem the boarder tile boarder for my whrilpool tub. It''s a braided rope style which I like but its the color doesn''t go with the rest of my tiles in the bathroom. The color in the store looked niced but when contractor put in on the tub it looks horrible. To have it remove would cost me. I heard I can use Klenks to change the color. Please help me with this and can I do this myself and how long would it last? |
| carolyn Jun 18, 2011 23:22:02 | RE: Klenks epoxy Can I use gout to change the color of my boarder tile around my tub? |
| Mark Jun 19, 2011 06:40:33 | RE: Klenks epoxy Yes, you can use the Klenks Epoxy to paint your tiles. You can either do it yourself, or have your painter do it. |
| Frank Jul 11, 2011 11:11:35 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have a tub/shower combo with a fiberglass wallcovering. I'm going to paint the tub but wondering if i can use the Klenk's tub glazing kit to repaint the fiberglass wall covering too. The covering is a little bit flexible. |
| Dale Sep 27, 2011 15:15:03 | RE: Klenks epoxy I just wanted to say I tried the Klenks on my bathtub and it turned out perfectly! To everyone reading this, please note the following things to make sure your projects turn out well: 1). Prep, prep and more prep. You have to put in some time and some work to get your tub or sink ready. Scrub lots, use the products recommended on this site to get your things ready to paint and don''t skimp on time, you need to prep lots to get a great finish. 2). Follow the directions completely. The directions are on there for a reason. Follow them exactly as detailed, they''re not a guideline, they''re directions. 3). Take your time painting. It''s not a rush, so don''t rush it at all. Use a good quality brush and use thin strokes, making sure any drips are smoothed out along the way. Wear a mask for the fumes and make sure the room has a fan running and/or windows open. 4). Between coats, freeze the epoxy to keep it from hardening. Wrap it twice in plastic bags and let it stand for an hour or so once it''s taken out of the freezer. 5). Set your expectations accordingly. My bathtub was in OK shape but I wanted it to look really good. I also knew this wasn''t a professional job either, so I took my time and hoped for the best, knowing it didn''t have to be perfect. Well, it turned out really, really good and I''m thrilled. Bottom line: Put in the prep work and have fun with this. It''s not hard once you get everything ready. And don''t shower or take a bath for at least 5 days!!! |
| Monte Dunten Sep 27, 2011 23:16:43 | RE: Klenks epoxy I used to be able to purchase Klenk''s Tub & Tile Epoxy at Lowe''s or Home Depot but neither sell it now. Is there a retailer in the Houston, TX area that sell it or do I have to order it from Swing Paints? |
| Victoria Oct 15, 2011 18:39:49 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi: I purchased this product to do my avocado green bathtub in 2008 and have not used it yet. Is it still usable? It has never been opened and is still in the same 1 litre box. OR do I have to go out and buy a new two tin epoxy kit? Appreciate your comments |
| Mark Oct 15, 2011 19:55:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy Open the can or Part A. If it is still liquid, the paint should be usable. |
| Victoria Oct 15, 2011 20:19:18 | RE: Klenks epoxy Part A the top part is all liquid and there is a sediment of white ( cos its white paint ) so this is OK? |
| Mark Oct 16, 2011 07:47:49 | RE: Klenks epoxy That should be fine. Stir the contents of Part A. The white pigment should mix back into the liquid and give a uniform white paint. If it is not lumpy or hard, it is fine. The White paint should have a shelf life of at least 5 years. |
| dave Nov 28, 2011 17:17:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy we have fish eyes all over the tub despite numerous attempts at cleaning, sanding as per instructions. we are unable to locate fish eye elimanator anywhere in the city where we live, can you advise where we can locate or obtain it? |
| Mark Nov 28, 2011 17:20:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy Unfortunately, if you do not completely remove the silione BEFORE you start painting, it is nearly impossible to remove it afterwards. Where are you located? |
| dave Nov 28, 2011 17:42:49 | RE: Klenks epoxy we completely removed the silicone, i used the preclean kit, then i sanded it. i rinsed with amonia. i tried painting saw fish eyes, then cleaned as per above again, but still covered in fish eyes. we are in peterborough ontario |
| Mark Nov 28, 2011 18:13:12 | RE: Klenks epoxy Ammonia by itself will not remove the silicone. You need to rinse with both the ammonia and the epoxy thinner. The paint does contain some anti-fish eye solution, but occasionally it is not adequate to counteract the silicone. You should be able to find Klenk ANTI FISH EYE at Home Building Centre in Lindsay. Other Home Hardware stores may also carry it. |
| Jeff Dec 29, 2011 14:57:28 | RE: Klenks epoxy I purchased Klenks epoxy for my bath tub. however, i have misplaced the directions. can you provide a web site or instructions on usage? it does part A/B, brush,rubber gloves and some other items. |
| Mark Dec 29, 2011 15:50:58 | RE: Klenks epoxy The instructions are posted on the web page for Klenk's Epoxy. www.swingpaints.com/directions_8100_8199.pdf |
| Bob Wood Dec 30, 2011 12:15:25 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am in the process of refinishing a claw foot tub.. I have this tub in my shop and I plan to spray the finish on when the prep is done. I have noticed that most sites on the internet along with a company that comes to your house use urethane based paints. My question is what is the difference and which one will give best results. I do have experience in spray painting and automotive refinishing. Also I noticed your products do not call for a primer, is that the case or would one be helpful . Any other tips would be appreciated as I would like this to turn out successful . This does require quite a bit of work and expense when you include the cost of new fixtures and installation. Regards Bob Wood |
| Mark Dec 31, 2011 09:43:12 | RE: Klenks epoxy The most important step in refinishing a bathtub is the preparation. The surface must be thoroughly cleaned and sanded. Most professional reglazers use epoxy systems, as they are the hardest, most chemical resistant finish. Acrylic urethanes are not succeptible to UV discolouration ,but since most surfaces are indoors, this is not an issue. The urethanes will cure faster, allowing you to use the tub after 48 hours, but in the long run, they are not as durable as epoxies. A primer is not required for Klenk''s Epoxy (another advantage of epoxies over urethanes), as good adhesion will result onto a properly prepared surface. |
| Christine Jan 03, 2012 12:34:52 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hello. I began resurfacing my tub & surround with Klenk's Tub & Surround refinishing kit. I have used 2 kits and need another one to finish the job but the hardware store where I purchased my supplies about 2 months ago no longer has this product and cannot get another kit in for me. Is it possible to use a different brand at this point to complete my job or would it be ok to finish by using the Klenk's tub, tile & sink refinishing kit? I am desperate as this is the only shower/tub that we have and we must get this completed ASAP!!! |
| Mark Jan 03, 2012 14:55:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy Do you need to apply an additional coat, or are you looking to apply the new paint to an unpainted area? |
| Christine Jan 03, 2012 22:17:37 | RE: Klenks epoxy I need to apply an additional coat |
| Mark Jan 04, 2012 07:40:48 | RE: Klenks epoxy It would be best to find the original paint. There is no way to know for sure whether Klenks Tub & Tile Epoxy will have an adverse affect on your existing paint. Klenks Tub & Surround was manufactured by another company that has no affiliation with Swing Paints. |
| kay Jan 27, 2012 09:10:31 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have painted my tub with the Klenks Tub refinishing kit. I have followed all directions and tub looks execellent except for the fact it feels like sand paper.If i sand out the millions of bubbles will i have to aply another coat? It has 4 coats as is due to the horrible original green color. And what grit sand paper should i use. thank you |
| Mark Jan 27, 2012 09:30:08 | RE: Klenks epoxy The roughness may be a result of using a brush that was not cleaned thoroughly between coats. Bubbles are rare, but can occur if the product is near the end of its pot life (approximately 6 hours after mixing). I would think a roller would cause more bubble than a brush. You should sand the surface smooth using as fine a grit as possible. Start with 400. If that works to remove any imperfections and leaves a uniform surface, you are good to go. If the surface is still rough so that a new coat won''t hide the imperfections, go to a coarser grit (200). After sanding, remove the sanding dust using a cloth dampened in thinner, and apply another coat. |
| earnest Feb 02, 2012 18:05:29 | RE: Klenks epoxy I DONE MY TUB REFINISHING A FEW MONTHS AGO AND THERE IS NOW A RUST LOOK AROUND WHERE THE DRAIN IS SO THEREORE WHAT CAN I USE TO REMOVE THIS RUST OR THE REGLAZING IS PEELING I JUST WANT TO FIX IT. LOKING FOR AN ANSWER THANK YOU |
| Mark Feb 03, 2012 07:10:23 | RE: Klenks epoxy If the rust in on the surface, you can use a rust remover. If the replazed paint is peeling, you should completely remove the paint from the entire surface and start again. |
| Anna Mar 19, 2012 08:49:57 | RE: Klenks epoxy I just purchased the tub & tile prep kit for the tiles surrounding the tub/shower and the bathroom walls. I have read the instructions but I was wondering if I need to use sandpaper at any point in the prep work. If so when would I use it? Thank you. |
| Mark Mar 19, 2012 11:24:05 | RE: Klenks epoxy Klenk's Tub & Tile Prep Kit contains an abrasive sponge and an abrasive cleaning agent. Both of these will act like sandpaper. However, you can always do additional sanding if you like. |
| wendy May 25, 2012 11:15:01 | RE: Klenks epoxy I am getting ready to use Klenks on an old cast iron claw foot tub. Do I need to remove the metal drain piece or just mask it with masking tape? When painting should I start at the top and work to the bottom of the tub or from bottom to top?? |
| Mark May 25, 2012 12:32:48 | RE: Klenks epoxy No need to remove anything if you don''t want to. Masking tape can be used to prevnt paint from going where you do want it to. Starting at the top is usually prudent as you can more easily clean up any runs. |
| wendy Jun 03, 2012 00:07:57 | RE: Klenks epoxy Spent today following all cleaning/sanding directions. Tomorrow I will be filling low areas (chipped) with epoxy bondo and sand when dry. There is one rust spot I sanded down and I will get some converter to treat with. Can I paint directly over the area after using the rust converter? How long should I wait after the bondo is set before wiping the entire area with the klenks solvent? Can I paint fairly soon after wiping down with the solvent?? |
| Mark Jun 04, 2012 06:43:25 | RE: Klenks epoxy You can paint or wipe down with Klenks Epoxy Thinner once the rust converter and/or Bondo filler have cured. You can apply the paint onto the clean surface once it feels dry to the touch. |
| wendy Jun 13, 2012 19:30:12 | RE: Klenks epoxy Big relief, tub is done, NO fish eyes or orange peel likely because the tub (and the room it was in!) was immaculately CLEAN! You have to be extremely patient to complete this successfully and follow all the steps. IT CAN''T BE RUSHED! It rained the whole time but I used a ceramic heater to heat the room before hand and kept the temp up, ventilating the room frequently. Dried in three hours,(USE A RESPIRATOR!!) recoated and did a final coat next day. Looks great. Only 20 min. to actually paint (top to bottom worked great)each coat, with a new brush...get good natural bristle brushes from the paint store!! One brush was not great and dropped bristles which was a real pain. The bondo filler was very blue and hard to cover so next time I would try and get white. Sanded well and wiped with the Klenks thinner. After mixing the paint I filled the small container and put the other in the freezer (tripple wrapped) right away. No problem with it being too thick next day after letting it warm for about two hours. Anyway, just want to let people know that if you are methodical you can succeed with this task!! Not bad for a 63yr old eh! |
| Jeannie Jun 20, 2012 04:40:31 | RE: Klenks epoxy My husband picked up a Tub & Surround Refinishing Kit that says it is for Fiberglass & plastic surfaces. However, I think we have a cast iron porcelain coated bathtub. Will this kit still work for a porcelain tub? (we''ve been debating whether it means that it is safe to use for fiberglass & plastic, or is *only* for fiberglass & plastic and cannot be used effectively on a porcelain bathtub). |
| Sandra Jul 23, 2012 13:50:23 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hi! I recently applied Klenks to my bathtub (old porcelein tub) and have experienced some bubbling the surface of the tub. I would like to purchase a NEW batch of Klenks and put another 1 - 2 coats on the tub to get it fully white because I think that the process of storing it in the freezer over a few days and the fact that it was so warm in my condo made the product unusable in the end. My questions are.... 1 - if I purcahse a new batch of Klenks can I put the coats over the coats that are already there? 2- Is there anything that I can do to release or scrape off the few peeling sections on the base of the tub? Steel wool? before applying additional coats? (Realizing that the coats will not be totally even im these areas here on in). 3- Finally, the surface has remained very "tacky" event after 5 days? Any suggestions as to why this could be? Thanks so much! |
| Mark Jul 24, 2012 09:45:22 | RE: Klenks epoxy What do you mean by bubbling on the surface? Are these fish eyes or was there a previous finish on the tub that is coming off? You should not apply any new coats over a finish that is peeling or flaking. Even if you sand the previous finish, you will still have area where the paint is not adhering. The best solution is to remove any flaking paint with Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover and start from scratch. If the paint is still tacky after 5 days something is wrong. It could be the mixing ratio or induction time, but it is more likely that there is not adequate air flow into the room and the paint is not curing. |
| Alan Aug 23, 2012 00:32:45 | RE: Klenks epoxy Hello, I''m planning to refinish my kitchen floor tiles (look like more ceramic than porcelain, but not 100% sure) and just wonder if the following procedures is correct and will lead to a beautiful and durable finish. 1. Remove the grout 2. Sand the entire tile flooring w/coarse sandpaper Q1: Do i have to sand till the entire top ceramic coating disappears? Or just sand till i get a rough surface? 3. Clean the sanded surface w/Klenks prep kit and Klenks epoxy thinner, as per instructions. Q2: Is it possible to get a "brick style" 12"x24" finish from the current 12"x12" tiles by using an epoxy concrete filler? Will the Klenks epoxy go on top of the filler w/o any problem? 4. Sand the concrete filler slightly in order for it to "blend in" Q3: Does a primer coat required? If so which product should i use? 5. Paint the tiles w/Klenks epoxy as per instructions. Q4: Does a epoxy clear coat required? As i''ll be pushing at least the fridge and stove back and i don''t want to leave any marks on the floor. 6. Re-grout. Thanks in adv. |
Aug 23, 2012 13:43:47 | RE: Klenks epoxy Q1: Do i have to sand till the entire top ceramic coating disappears? Or just sand till i get a rough surface? THE PURPOSE OF SANDING IS TO REMOVE THE GLOSS IN ORDER TO PROVIDE GOOD ADHESION. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO GO ANY FURTHER. Q2: Is it possible to get a "brick style" 12"x24" finish from the current 12"x12" tiles by using an epoxy concrete filler? Will the Klenks epoxy go on top of the filler w/o any problem? YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO PAINT OVER THE FILLER. Q3: Does a primer coat required? If so which product should i use? NO PRIMER IS REQUIRED. Q4: Does a epoxy clear coat required? As i''''ll be pushing at least the fridge and stove back and i don''''t want to leave any marks on the floor. YOU SHOULD NOT APPLY A CLEAR TOP COAT, AS THESE WILL MOST LIKELY YELLOW OVER TIME. HOWEVER, YOU WILL WANT TO ALLOW A MINIMUM 5 DAYS BEFORE MOVING THE FRIDGE AND STOVE. YOU SHOULD PROBABLY PUT PLASTIC SLIDERS UNDER THESE ITEMS TO HELP THE ITEMS SLIDE OVER THE FLOOR. |
| Erin Sep 22, 2012 18:35:05 | RE: Klenks epoxy We recently refinished our bathtub with Klenks and did not use it for more than 7 days. When it was first done the surface looked great but now a week later when we went to use it I noticed faint yellow rings around the tub. Would this be from improper prepping? We were also refinishing floors - some sawdust got on the tub but not until after the epoxy surface was dry for several days. Could the dust have discoloured it? Most importantly is there any way to remove this staining? |
| Mark Sep 23, 2012 10:24:54 | RE: Klenks epoxy What exactly do you mean by "yellow rings"? Are they big rings? Small rings? Do they circle the entire tub? Are they only in certain spots? Did you only notice the rings after removing the sawdust? How was the sawdust removed? Did it stick to the surface? Did you ventilate the room after painting the tub? Was the floor refinishing going on at the same time? Were any other solvents being used during this time? Although the answer to these questions will help to determine the cause of your problem, it is likely that the yellow stains cannot be removed, and the only solution would be to repaint the tub. |
| Erin Sep 23, 2012 11:34:41 | RE: Klenks epoxy Thanks for the reply... on closer inspection it appears that the rings are spots that the epoxy didn't cover properly. So I think repainting is the only option. Thanks again |
| Jan Sep 26, 2012 16:06:02 | RE: Klenks epoxy I want to do a second coat, but left it far too long... now the paint has thickened. Can I thin it with paint thinner and still use it? |
| Jan Sep 26, 2012 16:09:14 | RE: Klenks epoxy I want to do a second coat on the tub, but left it too long and the paint has thickened. Can I use paint thinner and still use the Klenk''''s paint? |
| Mark Sep 27, 2012 08:33:37 | RE: Klenks epoxy No, once the paint has thickened up you will not be able to thin it for application. |
| Brian Stefan Oct 07, 2012 07:31:36 | RE: Klenks epoxy I would like to restore my antique kitchen sink with Klenks and was wondering if I could apply several coats of clear coat (Permalac, auto clear coat,etc.) over the sink after completing the new white coat with Klenks to protect the finish from staining, etc. If the answer is yes, would you kindly recommend a suitable clear coat? Many thanks in advance and have a wonderful Thanksgiving. |
| nathan Jun 15, 2013 20:37:20 | RE: Klenks epoxy I have fish eye''s throughout the whole tub inside and outside of it. Wife followed the instructions to a T Can I get fisheye killer from klenks? |
| Mark Jun 17, 2013 07:41:27 | RE: Klenks epoxy Actually, the fish eyes come from silicone, so there must have been a place where the brush went over a section that was not thoroughly cleaned. Once you have fish eyes, you can either completely remove the finish and start over, or you can put in a couple drops of fish eye eliminator and apply another coat. |
| nathan Jun 17, 2013 09:14:11 | RE: Klenks epoxy So is it okay to sand it again then repeat? |
| Mark Jun 17, 2013 11:23:45 | RE: Klenks epoxy As long as you use the Fish Eye Eliminator you can sand and apply another coat. |
| nathan Jun 18, 2013 10:15:34 | RE: Klenks epoxy Mark where would I get the fisheye killer? I'm surprised that it's not being sold with your guy's products. I checked alot of stores to see who carries it. |
| Mark Jun 18, 2013 10:26:40 | RE: Klenks epoxy You can bring a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. Stores that carry the Epoxy paint do not always carry the Epoxy Thinner, Prep Kit, or Fish Eye Eliminator. Where are you located? |
| nathan Jun 18, 2013 21:13:31 | RE: Klenks epoxy Don't worry Mark..everything taken care of...The tub looks great and thanks for your help and info. |
| Mark Jun 19, 2013 07:48:52 | RE: Klenks epoxy Excellent! |
| Lynn Oct 08, 2013 21:22:13 | RE: Klenks epoxy I made a major mistake and removed the clear coat (the shine) from my three piece fiberglass bathtub with drain opener. The damage is around the drain and I would need it repaired as soon as possible. Would Klenks epoxy fix this? As the finish is already somewhat dull, should I still need to sand? Thank you, Lynn lynsmorin@hotmail.ca |
| Mark Oct 09, 2013 17:10:02 | RE: Klenks epoxy Lynn, You use a clear gel coat, or Klenk's Epoxy. The surface needs to be clean and deglossed. Is the entire surface is dull, you will not need to do any additional sanding. |
Dec 02, 2013 20:30:06 | RE: Klenks epoxy I used the epoxy on my bathtub and everything worked good however, I put the roller in the freezer (wrapped twice) and all my food taste like epoxy! I have de thawed the freezer and washed it. Unfortunately threw out all my frozen food and the smell is still there. How can I get rid if it? Help |
| Mark Dec 03, 2013 05:40:53 | RE: Klenks epoxy You will probably have to wash the inside surfaces with baking soda and warm water. A box of baking soda or deodorizer should be placed in the clean, dry freezer for a few days after cleaning. If that does not work, you may have to use a steamer to deodorize the freezer. |
| karen Apr 20, 2014 21:13:42 | RE: Klenks epoxy I bought the Klenks enamel paint and the Tub and Tile Prep Kit paying special attention to the prep work. Spent about 3 hours ensuring prep work was completed however i did not use the epoxy thinner and now after the first coat I have fish eyes. Bought the product at Rona Sudbury but I did not see the Epoxy Thinner there. Is there any business in Sudbury that sells the Epoxy Thinner. Thanks, |
| Mark Apr 20, 2014 22:02:03 | RE: Klenks epoxy You should call or write Rona head office to complain. They are stocking the paint and prep kit, but not the thinner. It is ridiculous. Home Hardware (Home owners helping homeowners) will have the Klenk's Epoxy Thinner. However, at this point you will need to get the Fish Eye Eliminator (also available at Home Hardware) to fix your problem. |
| Mariza Dec 13, 2014 12:36:23 | RE: Klenks epoxy Can Klenk''s epoxy be tinted to match a specific tile colour? Thanks! |
| Mark Dec 15, 2014 05:39:16 | RE: Klenks epoxy Yes, using colourants compatible with epoxy paints, you can tint the white to a light shade. Darker shades and special matches can be ordered through your local dealer. |
| Joanne Jul 12, 2016 14:33:15 | Re: Klenks epoxy Can I separate both cans to make two coats instead of poring all part B into part A. I mean just use half of the paint and half of the part B. Just so the paint don't get hard before the second coat. Thanks |
| Mark Jul 12, 2016 14:37:15 | Re: Klenks epoxy Yes, as long as the mixing ratio is 1:1 you can mix only what you need |
| jan Apr 15, 2017 14:24:27 | Re: Klenks epoxy Hi: I just bought a box of your klenk's epoxy enamel , two-part epoxy. Can I use this product for the inside of my toilet bowl, will it work due that water is always inside a toilet bowl, and please give me more instruction would be great. Thank you. Jan |
| Mark Apr 17, 2017 09:58:59 | Re: Klenks epoxy Yes, you can certainly paint Klenk's Epoxy on toilets. The instructions are the same for any surface - ensure it is clean and well sanded. |
| Tanis Apr 15, 2018 09:21:50 | Re: Klenks epoxy I’m wondering specifically where I can find the fish eye drops in Alberta, or if it would be possible to have them mailed? Thanks |
| Mark Apr 15, 2018 12:15:25 | Re: Klenks epoxy Most Home Hardware stores carry this item. You may also order it online. |
| Jen Aug 31, 2018 19:23:50 | Re: Klenks epoxy The description on the box of thinner just said it was for a high gloss finish and cleaning brushes. I don't care about either of these things. Do I need it? (I can get it, but am not sure what the point is for me). Additionally, the tub didn't have any silicone around the fixtures or drain. It's super old. The tub is outside at the cottage, so a glossy finish doesn't matter. |
| Mark Sep 03, 2018 08:32:13 | Re: Klenks epoxy Klenk's Epoxy Thinner should be used, along with Klenk's Prep Kit, to thoroughly clean and prepare the surface for the paint. |
| Ian MacCallum Sep 11, 2018 14:42:13 | Re: Klenks epoxy Does Klenks epoxy have a shelf life and is it influenced by storage temperature. |
| Eric Sep 11, 2018 18:41:53 | Re: Klenks epoxy The shelf life for Klenk's Epoxy Enamel is @5 years. Although extreme fluctuations in temperature might influence shelf life, room temperature storage would not affect the product's shelf life. |
| Nathaniel Jul 18, 2019 20:39:03 | Re: Klenks epoxy I put one coat of finish on a sink, it seems to have gone on well, but after more than 24 hrs it is still a bit tacky, I tried sanding a run and instead of making dust it rolled a bit so I stopped, is this normal? |
| Mark Jul 19, 2019 07:27:05 | Re: Klenks epoxy There can be many reasons why the sink surface is still tacky after 24 hours, and it is important to wait until the surface dries prior to applying another coat. If the mixture was not measured correctly (assuming you did not simply pour the small can into the larger can), was not stirred adequately, or the mixture did not sit for an hour prior to application, it is likely the surface will never dry. If the surface was not cleaned adequately, or a tack cloth was used, the oils or resins can prevent the paint from drying. For all the cases above, the paint will have to be stripped off, and the surface cleaned prior to repainting. If the room was below 20C, had very high humidity, or did not have good ventilation, the paint may take much longer to dry. Increase the heat and place a fan in the room to vent the air until the paint dries. |
| Nathaniel Jul 19, 2019 18:53:40 | Re: Klenks epoxy After 72 hrs still not dry I think I will have to strip it and start again What do you recommend for stripping? |
| Mark Jul 19, 2019 19:35:33 | Re: Klenks epoxy Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper or Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover will remove the coating after this period. Do you have an idea of what you may have done wrong? |
| Nathaniel Jul 20, 2019 12:00:39 | Re: Klenks epoxy I didn’t let the mix sit for an hour before applying and it was raining |
| Richard Hoffman Jan 28, 2020 00:25:43 | Re: Klenk's epoxy Several years ago I refinished a fiberglass shower basin with Zynolyte Klenk's Aqua-Tech Water-based Epoxy. I'd like to know if I can refinish once again with Klenk's latest epoxy enamel. I've scuff sanded the original epoxy finish and solvent tested with lacquer thinner. Would there be any issues with applying the epoxy enamel over the water-based epoxy from several year's ago. Thank you for whaterver information you can provide me. |
| Mark Jan 28, 2020 06:57:24 | Re: Klenks epoxy It appears as though you have done all the necessary work to determine if the new finish would affect the old finish. It will still be necessary to properly clean the surface prior to applying any new paint. |
| Deb Jan 20, 2021 11:08:29 | Re: Klenks epoxy In the forum at one place you mention”sanding is very important” but I dont see any mention of sanding in either the klenks directions or Carols that you sent . If I clean the tub with the prep kit, and solvent do I sand as well? I want to get this right the first time, |
| Mark Jan 20, 2021 12:36:13 | Re: Klenks epoxy Sanding is performed when you use the abrasive Prep #1 compound and the sanding sponge. CLEANING: WEAR GLOVES. Apply Klenk's Prep #1 Cleaning Compound to abrasive sponge. Rub the Cleaning Compound onto the surface in a circular fashion. SCRUB VIGOUROUSLY with the Prep #1 and abrasive sponge to degloss the surface. Thoroughly scrub area where caulking was removed. Rinse surface thoroughly with warm water. |
| Deb Jan 20, 2021 15:30:42 | Re: Klenks epoxy I have scrubbed with compound and rough side of sponge as hard as I could in the circular motion but honestly the tub still looks rather shiny should I goat the tub with an electric sander . I didnt use the tsp powder yet but I guess the tub is in good condition just the wrong colour but still shiny . Any suggestions? |
| Mark Jan 20, 2021 15:42:55 | Re: Klenks epoxy You can do additional sanding if you want. The TSP will also etch the surface. |
| Vicky Feb 12, 2022 12:54:01 | Re: Klenks epoxy Hi, I’ve recently covered all my tub surround tiles with Klenks epoxy. After a few mishaps inc fisheye , which is now resolved we are happy with the results. However when washing my hair some purple shampoo flicked onto the tiles. They have been painted for over a week and so are cured. The shampoo has left slight faint stains which are bothering me. Can they be cleaned off without damaging the tile paint? Also after splashing a few paint drips on the linoleum bathroom floor what can I use to remove those? Thank you |
| Mark Feb 14, 2022 06:32:41 | Re: Klenks epoxy It may be difficult to completely remove the purple stains from your tiles. You should not use any harsh cleansers. You can try to remove the stains using a paste of baking soda and water, but you may end up removing the shine from those areas. |
| Vicky Feb 17, 2022 12:57:17 | Re: Klenks epoxy Hi Mark, Thanks for the reply. I might give it a try but I may just leave them as they are only noticeable when actually sitting in the bath tub. Any suggestions for removing it from the linoleum floor? We tried scraping but that didn’t work. If not then it will be replaced eventually. Thank you. |
| Mark Feb 17, 2022 13:22:45 | Re: Klenks epoxy I would use a razor blade. Any chemical remover could damage the floor. |
| Hi Mark, Feb 18, 2022 13:28:22 | Re: Klenks epoxy Hi Mark, We have tried different blades but they kept snagging on the floor. Thank you for your help |
| Claire Apr 20, 2022 09:17:16 | Re: Klenks epoxy Bonjour. J'ai acheté le swing epoxy part A et B pour une petite surface environ 1 pouce pour ma baignoire où le revêtement est décollé. Les instructions sont manquantes et sur le rapport de quantité à mélanger. Quantité de part A et B. Merci |
| Mark Apr 20, 2022 09:22:55 | Re: Klenks epoxy Le mélange est 1:1. Cependant, nous vous déconseillons de réparer une surface endommagée avec un patch. Les meilleures resultant se produiront lorsque vous enlèverez complètement la peinture endommagée et recommencerez à neuf. |
| Andrew Jul 12, 2024 15:25:58 | Re: Klenks epoxy yellowing Hey Mark, not sure if this still going, but I sprayed a tub 8 months ago, followed the directions properly, and the whole tub is turning yellow everywhere I've sprayed it. No u.v. light or anything, the product is hard. Few small chips have been rejected that I just repaired and noticed hey the tubs literally yellow now, gross. What do you think did that? only klenks epoxy thinner for cleanup and whipe down. |
| Mark Jul 12, 2024 17:40:17 | Re: Klenks epoxy The likely culprits are cleaners, shampoos, soaps, bath oils or aerosol sprays. The other possibility is poor mixing ratio. |
| Andrew Jul 15, 2024 21:52:17 | Re: Klenks epoxy Thanks for the reply man! Okay so is that all ontop of it from after or do you think I didn't prep it enough and residue was still under it? Does the shampoo stain the enamel or something? Literally everywhere I painted is now yellow. The ratio was good. Thanks mark I just want to know incase I decide to spray another clients tub |
| Mark Jul 17, 2024 09:23:36 | Re: Klenks epoxy It would be odd to have a tub turn yellow due to insufficient prepping. If the surface is not cleaned correctly, you will normally not get a nice, even finish. Yellowing, which is very rare, is usually the result of chemical reaction after the paint has cured. Shampoos can discolour the epoxy, but it is odd that it would be everywhere. The fact that the entire surface has yellowed generally indicates something in the air (aerosols), something in the water (high chlorine or iron), something in a cleaner, or something from the paint (improper mixing ratio, interaction with gun cleaning solvent). |